LIght estimations

WinterWind

WinterWind

Mad pianist
Feb 11, 2005
957
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Could someone give me rough estimates for "low" light requirements, "moderate" light requirements, and "high" light requirements in WPG, and all the levels in between also, ie., ,5-1.5 is low, 1.6-2.5 moderate low, etc.

I'm not sure of the WPG for each level. It would be helpful when I choose plants if I had estimations and numbers to work with.

Thanks.
 
Does it not help at all if I keep changing my own definitions?

All are guesstimates using NO (normal output) triphosphor fluorescent tubes:

1.5 - 1.9 WPG = low light
2.0 - 2.6 WPG = moderate light
2.7 - 3.5 WPG = high light
>3.6 WPG = very high full time job.

If you are using PCs, especially with the Miro reflectors (AH Supply), reduce the above figures about 1/3.

Those are my current labels, "low" being levels at which only the bulletproff materials will show positive growth - Java Moss and Fern, Anacharis, etc. "Moderate" lighting will give positive growth from quite a lot wider variety of materials, especially with decent substrates, and with minimum surface disruption. Some supplements are likely to be needed periodically, but feeding is not a big deal. At "high" light levels I have to add bioavailable carbon (Excel, DIY CO2, pressurized gas CO2), supplement minerals routinely but not constantly or obsessively, and keep up with high volume water changes. Above about 3.5 WPG I feel like I am on the luge, far beyond my skill and attention levels, and that I am accelerating toward deep trouble while losing control :)
 
While I would never completely contradict anything RTR sais, I'd lower the level for CO2 to >2.0wpg. Probably not strictly necessary, but certainly getting into the range where the plants are going to be looking for it.

Also I'd like to add that tanks smaller than 10g (even 10g might be small) need more wpg that the standard guestimate.
 
then there is me with my 1.5 wpg(30 watts on a 20 gal) and I grow hygrophilia, cryptocorynes, java moss and fern, dwarf sag survives, I had a mellon sword that grew...

I do have to keep up with a bulb changing routine that means I have one 3 month old bulb and a 6 month old bulb at the time I change the oldest one for a new bulb. After 6 months of use on the light bulbs my plants don't grow.

more watts per gallon mean that you can use bulbs for a longer period of time since you have a larger cushion between the starting intensity and the thresh hold for plant growth.

RTR I know likes to be economical and uses his bulbs for a long time so he has to use more wattage to acomplish the same thing I do with my 1.5 wpg.
 
True, part of a terrible addiction to $$ tubes (Tritons). But I am trying very hard to wean myself down to Home Depot tubes. I just do not like the "look" as well.

I would never say that CO2 will not help, even at low light. It will. But I do not have to to use it at what I call moderate light, I just have to watch my CO2 conservation instead (minimum surface disruption). The requirement for carbon supplement is my break point for the moderate/high light dichotomy - that is where I do need to add C and the other suplements or I get growth limitation and algae.
 
I have a 1.5 WPG set-up, b/c there are not choice with 10 gallon tank lighting. So I settle for a 15 watt light. What plants might be able to grow in that condition. I see by yoru estimations that it is a low light setting, but I have been growing some moderate type species for quite a while.

Would plants such as water sprite and crypts grow?
 
Yes to both. Just keep the water sprite right under the lights and don't expect the crypts to multiply fast - but they will slowly. Also don't expect the crypts to necessarily look like they did when purchased - they are great chameleons, changing color and form depending on the particular situation.
 
RTR,
I noticed you said that with the smaller tanks one would need higher wattage. What category would you say 3 wpg on a 10 gal. fall into? Low, moderate, high? In your first post on this thread it would fall into the high category if it weren't a small tank.
 
RTR said:
Does it not help at all if I keep changing my own definitions?

All are guesstimates using NO (normal output) triphosphor fluorescent tubes:

1.5 - 1.9 WPG = low light
2.0 - 2.6 WPG = moderate light
2.7 - 3.5 WPG = high light
>3.6 WPG = very high full time job.

If you are using PCs, especially with the Miro reflectors (AH Supply), reduce the above figures about 1/3.

Those are my current labels, "low" being levels at which only the bulletproff materials will show positive growth - Java Moss and Fern, Anacharis, etc. "Moderate" lighting will give positive growth from quite a lot wider variety of materials, especially with decent substrates, and with minimum surface disruption. Some supplements are likely to be needed periodically, but feeding is not a big deal. At "high" light levels I have to add bioavailable carbon (Excel, DIY CO2, pressurized gas CO2), supplement minerals routinely but not constantly or obsessively, and keep up with high volume water changes. Above about 3.5 WPG I feel like I am on the luge, far beyond my skill and attention levels, and that I am accelerating toward deep trouble while losing control :)
Click to expand...

Why do you say that? I always though PC's were the way too go.......

or do you mean they are more efficient?
 
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