Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, part 1-4

Nope, just a bit wide on the panel, but we can tell if the top grows better being closer right, or does it have alot to do with what part of the flow also? Meaning the top of the waterfall might extract more nutrient being first in line right?

I think if you get too close the led 20º angle is too pinpoint. They are quite intense really
 
The top-to-bottom does not matter near as much as the distance to the light, so I guess we'll see how it goes from there. You should have a packed screen by day 7. Maybe dose some iron.
 
Anyway, I'm hoping to bypass the diatom bloom that comes with an initial setup.
 
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Here is a note to skimmer manufacturers, as well as manufacturers of acrylics/plastics, lighting, and pumps. One way to benefit from scrubbers is to start building them, so as to make life easier for aquarists. There is no patent, and I have no interest in building them, although designing them is fun. Promoting them is fun too. But manufacturing is not my thing, so hopefully some folks will start making at least a simple version (like the Santa Monica 120) available. Look at it like this: Manufacturers of skimmers currently make an expensive product that has pumps and acrylic/plastic parts. Manufacturers of lighting currently make an expensive product that has bulbs, ballasts, and frames. Neither of these products has all these parts in one unit.

Scrubbers, however, do. Instead of viewing scrubbers as a make-at-home rig that stops people from buying skimmers, manufacturers should instead view scrubbers as a piece of aquarium equipment they can manufacture which includes acrylic, plastic, lights, pumps, timers, fans and complex parts, all woven together. Imagine the designs that could be achieved which would allow the most water flow, the most air, the most light, all in the least space possible, and for the best price. It's a designer's dream. Sure, many folks will continue making their own scrubbers, but at some point these folks will upgrade their tanks and will not want to hassle with building larger versions. So, here are some things I thought of that manufacturers could offer:


o A simple low-cost design; just an acrylic box, preferably with a mirror inside finish. The customer would add all other parts. This is what I built.

o Complex designs that would be needed to fit into the many different places that aquarists have: Above a crowded sump, behind the tank, vertically next to tank, next to a tank in a stand-alone furniture finish, or on the wall as a decorative item.

o Skimmers designed to work with scrubbers, by having one connect/feed the other.

o Scrubber lights with built-in timers, for nanos.

o Ultra small scrubber boxes for nanos, possibly with self-contained LED lights, the size of a cell phone.

o Nano hoods with scrubbers built into them.

o Sumps with built in scrubbers, instead of built-in wet/dry's.

o Display lighting-fixtures with scrubbers connected to the back of them, such that the scrubber uses the same light.

o Tank options, such as scrubber-on-backside.

o Auto-cleaners that clean/scrub/scrape the screen automatically.

o Hand/electric tools specialized to clean the screen.

o RODI sprayers that give the screen a FW spray periodically (to kill pods), possibly doubling as a top off.

o Non-destructive pumps to get pods from the sump to the display.

o Self-priming pumps built in to scrubber, for placement on top of displays with no sump.

o Quick-disconnect waterfall pipes.

o Double and triple thick screens, which allow algae to stick better during cleanings.

o Multiple screens, with large areas for large tanks.

o Ultra thin LED powered flexible screens, which could weave around obstacles.

o Fan on a temp controller, to keep water temp preset.

o Uniquely shaped T5 panels, such as 12 X 12, to perfectly fit a screen.

o Safety switches that cut off the lights and/or flow during certain conditions.



A great first model could be targeted to smaller tanks (SW and FW) that may not have sumps, and thus would include a self-priming pump inside the scrubber. It would sit on or near the display and would pull water up to it. It would drain right back to the display, and would give the customer the option of letting the algae grow out the drain (and into the tank to feed the fish), or removing the algae as it comes out of the drain, before it gets to the display.
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Results of the Day:


"darkblue" on the RP site says, "Been running a 4"x10" OHF [over head filter scrubber] version on my 15g for almost 2 months already. My Nitrate reading started dropping after around 3 weeks. I've had 0 Nitrates for a month now. I'm using Seachem for my tests. The screen is just partially covered with what I think are patches of brown turf."

And "jfdelacruz", also on the RP site, says "I recently implemented this on my tank. I [originally] had an overhead filter to try and filter out a lot of detritus, and changed out filter foams every week. nitrates and phosphates were high and I had brown algae (kinda like cyano) on my sandbed already too thick to fight. I did the 2 days lights out and it took out the brown film algae. I bought a 10watt fluorescent light from carti and then cut a right fit cross-stitch cloth as my screen and layed it flat on my OHF and took out the foam. lights are on 24/7 [temporarily]. I'm on my 5th day and algae is basically non existent in the tank, while the whole cloth is covered in the same brown film algae that covered my sandbed and is starting to grow the green algae. 10,000K ung fluorescent and after day 2 it already had algae on it. on day 3 the whole cloth was lightly covered. im still waiting for day 10. also Im going on a 2nd week no water change just to try it out and so far everything's doing good. coral's are happy and clam is happy. inverts and clownfish is also happy and eating lots of cyclopeeze everyday!


Also, I'm putting together a little series on how nutrients work in our aquariums. It will hopefully help folks better understand what affects what, and how we can make things work their best. Here's the first one below. I use Salifert for my testing, so I'll just refer to them:
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Nutrients1.jpg
 
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Builds Of The Day:

This one is from "Sandztorm" on the RP site; it is a version of the nano that I listed on page 1, where a simple screen replaces the foam filter in the hood, and a light is added on top:

UserSandztormOnRP-1.jpg





This one from "Coopattack" on the FG site wraps the PVC around the bottom of the screen to hold it in place:

UserCoopattackOnFG-4.jpg



UserCoopattackOnFG-5.jpg





Here is a trough version by "framerguy" on the CR site (the lights have since been lowered closer to the trough):

UserFramerguyOnCR-3.jpg



UserFramerguyOnCR-2.jpg



UserFramerguyOnCR-1.jpg





This one from "Labman" on the MD site wanted a taller one in a more narrow size, so he attached two plastic canvas screens together:

UserLabmanOnMD-2.jpg





"Johntanjm" from the MD site placed screens on both sides of the bulb, instead of a bulb on both sides of the screen:

UserJohntanjmOnSGR-3.jpg





"Mrobo77031" on the UR site just attached the pipe and lights to the stand, and put some reflective material around it:

UserMrobo770131onUR-15.jpg





And "Mudshark" on the MASA site just drilled the pvc with holes, and wrapped a screen around it:

UserMudsharkOnMA.jpg

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Too bad on that trough one he didn't go with the flow and put in T8s running just above the troughs.
 
Rotating screens

Reading this thread, an idea popped into my head. There's probably some obvious reason why this is very dumb, and I won't be trying it myself any time soon, but thought I'd throw it out there just in case it's genius...
Why does the screen have to be flat? If you made the screen into a wide cylinder, and rotated it:

  1. you'd get perfectly even light coverage - especially if using a tube across the width of the roll. No need for multiple lights (unless you used another tube inside the cylinder, to grow the inside too).
  2. with a waterfall cascading over one part of the cylinder, you'd get consistent water coverage
  3. from what you've said, it sounds like the constant movement would help increase turf growth?
  4. if it rotated slowly enough, you'd get the pulsing wet/dry cycle without any special pumping, and therefore without periodic loss of function
  5. it would be more compact, so in some circumstances you could fit more screen in to limited space.
At first I thought of a freely spinning cylinder, powered solely by the weight of the water cascading down the surface, like a water-wheel, but I guess that would be too fast to achieve point 4, and no idea how algae would respond to being spun... (Cheap and simple though!) A slow motor wouldn't be too difficult though, maybe? One could also make a caterpillar track rather than a cylinder for greater surface area.
 
I don't know if I'd call that 'genius', but I think it is a great idea! You could have a really bright light up close, but since it rotates it wouldn't burn the center growth. Probably more like natural illumination with the ocean coming and going.
 
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