Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, part 1-4

[SantaMonica]

No. Water needs to flow rapidly over the screen. Not rise and flow slowly.

 

[SantaMonica]

.
Time for 66 new examples of scrubber designs:


MudShark on the MASA site:

Captevo on the Algae Scrubber site, with a nano setup:

Jarhead80 on the UR site, with a nano setup:

Chris003 on the 3R site:

AcuarioOceanic on the AR site:

AdolfoRuiz on the AR site:

Calunga on the AR site:

CesarRosh on the AR site:

Emperador on the AR site:

JJavier1976 on the AR site:

Labperck on the AR site:

Mario_Mendoza on the AR site:

Saulhs on the AR site:

Renman303 on the ARC site:

Aaarr on the Algae Scrubber site:

Gasha on the Algae Scrubber site, with a top-of-tank setup:

Hobogato on the Algae Scrubber site:

JDlon on the Algae Scrubber site:

Kbaker on the Algae Scrubber site, with a solar powered turtle tank:

Ktsdad on the Algae Scrubber site, with a bio-ball container design:

Mystic.Bertie on the Algae Scrubber site:

Natapa on the Algae Scrubber site, with an outdoor SW aquaculture pond:

OceanRock on the Algae Scrubber site:

RumpyPumpy on the Algae Scrubber site:

Worley on the Algae Scrubber site:

MT1071 on the FF site:

Slick_Fish on the FF site:

Darb on the FL site:

Jrunyon210 on the FL site:

Imdaring on the LR site:

Amalick on the MASA site:

Halogen on the MB site:

Huhhhhh on the MB site did a fantastic build. This type of scrubber is the most powerful you can fit in a small space, because all of the light is strong and near to the screen:

Here are the water resistant end caps for the bulbs:
http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=LT-VA72613

Here is the ballast (powers up to 6 bulbs):
http://www.1000bulbs.com/Fulham-Ballast-Workhorse-8/6189/

Here is the wiring diragram:
www.fulham.com/images/WDgifs/wire29.gif

Chelsey on the RC site:

Tige21 on the MD site:

SimonSKL on the MD site did a nice solar pond scrubber:

SimonSKL on the MD site also did a nice build that lets you remove the screen while the water is still flowing:

And here is a video of the screen removal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P0ZITI0h6o




MyFishEatYourFish on the MFK site:

CardBoardBoxProcessor on the MFT site:

Mudcrab on the MFT site, with a great design that slides in and out:

Craig on the NZ site:

Sl1me on the NZ site:

Birador on the RP site:

Boom_Smashers on the RP site:

GrAhF11 on the RP site:

Rav888 on the RP site:

Ronron on the RP site:

Kiwiman456 on the RS site:

Markm3 on the RS site:

Ender on the SARK site:

Punk on the SARK site:

Milburnr on the SC site:

Dragon1188 on the SG site:

Johntanjm on the SG site:

Loowk on the SG site:

Reefme on the SG site:

Snaper on the SG site:

Wideawake on the SG site:

Creetin on the SRC site:

Darasy on the TCMAS site:

FiveSmallWorlds on the TCMAS site:

Craigg on the UR site:

Wormside on the UR site:

 

[UnderWaterDiver]

questions questions..

Hello SantaMonica,

I have been very interested in your method. very, very. interresting.
I at this moment have only a fresh water tank, but i am thinking about setting up a reef beginning next or end this year.
Since this filter removes all nitrate and phosphate, i have come to the conclusion that a RO/DI unit is not needed, i can just
use a waterpurifying filter that is used to make drinking water, that also removes the bleach... Is this correct?? The thing with a RO/DI unit is that there is so much waste water..

If i setup a reef then i will not buy a skimmer, i see no need for it, so you will save me $$$.

But i see some negative things in your filter, and i would like your opinion of my thinking and alternative..
Negative things in your filter as i see it are:

• needs lights (a lot) for 18hours a day) (electric bill)
• might need a fan to cool the cabinet because of the heat produced
  by the lights.
• Needs weekly cleaning, with fresh water, so uses water and effort
• Needs a good pump but i guess all solutions need this.
• The mix with high energy lights and water is where i live 220V vs water. So realy good isolation is needed and it would also be salt water.. scary.. over time salt might eat the isolation maybe...

So what i would like is a system that does not need so much maintenance and electricity and water (water is minor). So i would like your opinion of some other items:

To remove nitrate use a Coil Denitrator like explained on http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/diydenitratorplans/ss/sbscoildenitrat.htm
Now this thing i need to think about harmfull gasses if any but it looks like almost no maintenance needed.

For phosphate removal, i am thinking about a comercial phosphate removal media and a DIY chamber. This would also (correct me if i am wrong) need little mainteneance. I would have from time to time the cost of buying the media but might be more cost effective then the electric bill needed for the lighting and fan/cooling.

Now i would love to get your feedback on my thinking, and where i go wrong, as you know i never setup a salt water tank so i am a complete newbee.

Thank you, and tank you for putting so much info on the internet about your method.

 

[SantaMonica]

i am thinking about setting up a reef beginning next or end this year. Since this filter removes all nitrate and phosphate, i have come to the conclusion that a RO/DI unit is not needed, i can just use a waterpurifying filter that is used to make drinking water, that also removes the bleach... Is this correct?? The thing with a RO/DI unit is that there is so much waste water..

A scrubber does remove most of the "bad" things in tap water, but it is not known yet if they are ALL removed. And what certainly is not known is if they are removed fast enough. Chlorine is definitely not removed by scrubbers, but chlorine will evaporate in a day or so if the water is circulated BEFORE puting it in the tank. Chloramines (chlorine + ammonia), however, are another matter. They are added by some city water systems, and they are not removed by scrubbers (and they do not evaporate). So you must use an additive to remove chloramines (if your city water has chloramines; ask them).

Some people are experimenting with using tap water instead of RO or RODI, but there are no results yet. A fish-only (no rock, no sand) tank is probably fine, if you have no chloramines, and if you let the water circulate for a day before using it. If you have chloramines, you can use an additive to remove the chlorine and chloramines right away, without having to wait a day.

If you have live rock, or live sand, or any corals or inverts at all, then your problem becomes copper. Yes a scrubber (i.e., algae) consumes copper, but the question is, will the copper be removed fast enough so that no damage occurs. Nobody has tested this, so it would be an experiment. For best chances, you'd want an oversize scrubber, with powerful lighting, and strong flow, along with cleaning every 7 days no matter what. The best way would be to start with an new tank, and add your corals or inverts one at a time (cheapest first). This would be a good test for someone to try.

needs lights (a lot) for 18hours a day) (electric bill)

Depends on scrubber size. For regular filtering, 0.5 watts per gallon is recommended.

might need a fan to cool the cabinet because of the heat produced by the lights.

True, if your cabinet is closed.

Needs weekly cleaning, with fresh water, so uses water and effort

Yes.

The mix with high energy lights and water is where i live 220V vs water. So realy good isolation is needed and it would also be salt water.. scary.. over time salt might eat the isolation maybe

You do need to handle it carefully. The trick is to seal all connections (including the bulb sockets) with aquarium-safe silicone. Then just tear off the silicone to replace the bulbs. Salt does not "eat", but it does collect. Remember you will also have 220V going to your return pump, your light, and whatever else is in your cabinet.

To remove nitrate use a Coil Denitrator

These work, but from what I understand, they require constant adjustment. Plus if they are adjusted wrong, they can kill the tank.

For phosphate removal, i am thinking about a comercial phosphate removal media and a DIY chamber.

These ("GFO") also work. They do lower the pH a bit.

So, comparing a "denitrator + GFO" reef system (no skimmer) to a scrubber-only system:


Denitrator + GFO:

Removes Nitrate
Removes Phosphate
Adjust denitrator
Replace GFO
Try not to spill GFO, or mis-adjust denitrator
Get cooling another way (fans, chiller?)
Raise pH another way (drip kalk?)
Aerate another way (fan on tank and sump?)

Scrubber-only:

Removes Ammonia/Ammonium
Removes Nitrate
Removes Phosphate
Removes Metals
Removes CO2
Adds Oxygen
Raises pH
Cools water
You must clean screen
Try not to forget to turn flow back on
Cannot kill the tank

 

[UnderWaterDiver]

Hello SantaMonica,

Thank you for your quick reply.

Good info, and indeed i worry about a C.D. killing the tank... Scrubber adding O2 to the water and cooling in summer are a definate plus..

Thanks again

 

[SantaMonica]

Update: Best way to rough up your plastic canvas:

 

[mikeb210]

How well does a scrubber work in a freshwater tank with large fish, predators, high waste producers etc. Can it cut down the water changes?

 

[SantaMonica]

Works great in FW. But in any high-load system, you need a larger more-powerful scrubber, because the sizes that are recommended are for normal load reef tanks.

Your goal would be 2 square inches per gallon, and one watt per gallon. Outdoor solar scrubbers work great for FW too, because rain does not hurt it.

 

[Markushka]

I think I might want to try this. Im setting up a 20 tall reef, and I have limited funds to work with. My main light's a 150w MH, and i've a 18w PC that I could use for the filter. Im also limited in space (whatever I can fit in the stand.) Im thinking of using a 5 gallon bucket as the sump/filter. Any opinions?

 

[SantaMonica]

A small 4 X 10 single sided screen with one 23 Watt CFL FLOODLIGHT will do it all. Don't user your 18 w pc. Check the links below for ideas.