My 29G FOWLR Pics and Phases

ok, thanks alot I had no idea about that, I will get rid of the protector on the one powerhead and I'm thinking of getting a nano-- will that be good??? I do about a 4 gallon water change weekly. Is that enough? and I think the water is good, it's from a RO filter from outside of weis. I think i'm gonna look into buying my own. I think some of the problem might be overfeeding, I'm still trying to get used to the amount I should feed the fish daily. And I need more hermits too, though IDK if that would help! Any other suggestions are greatly appriciated!!!!!!!!
 
Hermits won't help with the Cyano, and contrary to what a lot of people say, I've read and been told that Cyano is almost unavoidable at times, in newly established tanks it's not uncommon to go through the different phases of algae blooms. Cyano is technically a bacteria but it looks like algae!

People will suggest your light bulbs are old, your water is bad, not enough flow..etc. I have 4 bulbs that are 5 weeks old, a #2 & #3 Coralia with a Fluval Canister in a 36g CORNER tank, I have a ton of flow and I still had an outbreak of Cyano. My LFS told me continue with my regular water changes, make sure I'm not overfeeding and it will sort itself out with each water change. I reduced the hours my lights are on too, it really seems to have helped....

You treated Ich with medication, I would not do this in your display tank. It appears that chemicals are a last resort, but if you have a small 'hospital' tank and patience, you should never have to treat your display tank and risk the lives of your inverts, coral & overall stability of your tank.
 
Dan06 said:
Hermits won't help with the Cyano, and contrary to what a lot of people say, I've read and been told that Cyano is almost unavoidable at times, in newly established tanks it's not uncommon to go through the different phases of algae blooms. Cyano is technically a bacteria but it looks like algae!

People will suggest your light bulbs are old, your water is bad, not enough flow..etc. I have 4 bulbs that are 5 weeks old, a #2 & #3 Coralia with a Fluval Canister in a 36g CORNER tank, I have a ton of flow and I still had an outbreak of Cyano. My LFS told me continue with my regular water changes, make sure I'm not overfeeding and it will sort itself out with each water change. I reduced the hours my lights are on too, it really seems to have helped....

You treated Ich with medication, I would not do this in your display tank. It appears that chemicals are a last resort, but if you have a small 'hospital' tank and patience, you should never have to treat your display tank and risk the lives of your inverts, coral & overall stability of your tank.
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Cyano info here http://www.reefs.org/library/article/c_bingman2.html

and Dan is correct.. some things eat it but its not our typical clean up crews...and its in everyones tank... when it becomes visible and slime like is when you have too much nutrients in the tank which allows it to grow like mad.

Flow...only prevents detritus from settling and prevents dead spots where cyano can take hold and grow... its one preventative measure but its no cure as Dan stated. Ive had some grow on a powerhead...

Every tank is different on the root problem ..the only thing similar is Nutrients in abundance. Where is the question... the water? the substrate? Both?

For me I had one hell of a nightmare almost 2 years ago...and it was my substrate was so saturated with nutrients...i would siphon out the cyano...next day I had a 3"-6" lengh and width blanket on my sand of red slime...

Cyano clean up is a pain because it has to be hit two ways...

1st is total clean up..siphon all you can.. blowing off rocks...siphoning top layers of substrate .. huge water change.

2nd is prevention and that means identifying the nutrients source..your water, your maintenance not good enough, over freeding, ..what ever it is you have to nail it down by observation on your end.

The slow way but sure way is just lots of water changes and often siphoning what appears till it finally cuts back. That can be costly for some tanks that are large.

ugh I can tell yah I do everything I can now to prevent it from ever happening... I strictly avoid Canisters, Hob filters...another reefer and I both had similar stories of nitrates being high..and removing canisters and they finally dropped and stayed down with regular maintenances.

I also run phosban in a reactor to ensure phosphate is never present... no joke its like tossing jet fuel on a fire ...when it comes to cyano and algae growth.
 
Ace25 said:
I would make fixing your cyano (red slime algae in the pictures) problem a #1 priority. You have something wrong with your setup, ie, waterchanges with bad water, not enough water changes, overfeeding, too little flow, any or all of those could cause cyano outbreaks. One of those things we all go through and learn how to fix and come out better for it in the end. I would definately recommend adding another powerhead to the other side of the tank. Also take the tip off of the koralia you currently have to give a more broad flow. Just suggestions. ;)
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Totally with Ace on this one... having another Korilia on the opposite side and aim them at each other.

its good that ace caught that cause its not a lot ..i didnt notice ...must have looked at the pic closer huh Ace?

Feeding... You should consider a schedule that is mixed.. If you use flake and frozen foods... Just use flakes and every several days give them a treat and use the frozen food. (but rinse it off first).

Food should be gone in 5 min or less after feeding if not you over fed... keep that in mind.

I am gona have to ask 2little fishies to send me a check:
Buy a phosban reactor... its the cheapest and sure way to keep phosphates out... and phosphates is the number 1 contributor for faster growth for algae and cyano.

its not a fix but will remove one major element to the problem. and prevent future problems.
 
Always a fan of Chemi-Clean myself. It will wipe out the majority of the cyano in about 2 days. You still need to find the root cause and fix it or the cyano will come right back, but after you syphon out as much as you can as ToeJam suggested, do a chemi-clean treatment and your tank will look perfect again.

Also agree, I have a TLF reactor, been running strong for over 5 years now and only replaced the tiny Rio pump once. One of the best investments anyone can make for a tank is a reactor running GFO media. IMO they are as critical as a protein skimmer.
 
It depletes the oxygen from the tank for one. It would have to be a lot worse than the pics before oxygen levels start to become a problem though.

As for a second koralia, what do you currently have now? 2 #2s would be a minimum for a 29G I think. Personally I am running a 3 and a 2 on my 29G. Here is a pic of mine. It is my "neglected tank" though, ie, don't really pay attention to it, but I do maintain it. Has a mated pair of ocellaris clowns, a starry blenny, and a bluebar pseudochromis in there.
3469847964_c020984cec.jpg
 
ace how is that blue bar for aggression? too much for fire gobies? sorry i just havn't been able to find much on them
 
All pseudos are mean little buggers. He used to be in my display but would hide in the rocks and dart out and nip fins of fish that swam by, so he was the reason I re-setup my 29G tank, just to be able to put the psuedo in somewhere else. He still hides in the rocks, but doesn't seem to go after the clowns or blenny. Then someone tore down their tank and was giving away the mated pair of clowns so I put those in there, and finally I ran across a Starry Blenny that I have wanted for many years, but I want him in my display. I couldn't evict my 6 year old Lawnmower blenny and put him in the 29G because it is so big and healthy, I didn't want to do anything to harm that, so when he goes my Starry Blenny will move over to my display.
 
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