I started this tank using the water from a pre cycled 12 gal tank, filter and gravel. the second set of numbers is from right after a 45% water change which seems real high after changing out that much water, 15 out of 30 gal. I'm still going to contact them to see if there is something wrong with the water system just in case. I haven't tested for ammonia, I get paid this week so I'll get that kit then.
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- Thread starter Addlewood
- Start date
my city's 2013 report that came out earlier this year says that nitrate should be ND-0.80, Organic carbon 2.7-3.6, hardness (from CaCO3) range from 100-200 and it doesn't show what nitrite was but I think that it would be lower then nitrate naturally.
I forgot that today city offices closed for memorial day.
I forgot that today city offices closed for memorial day.
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
The numbers just posted in your penultimate post...those are from the tank after a 45% water change. Is nitrite really 10 ppm, or is that 1.0 ppm? Are any fish still in this tank?
Can you test your tap water alone for nitrite and nitrate please?
It says 10 ppm (mg/L) GH 120 KH 240 pH 7.5 NO2 and 3 barley moved from ND. So it's something with my tank, again. Is it cycling and it just appeared done? Did I kill off the bacteria that brakes everything down? I have two plants and one which looks like a fern with wrinkled and long leafs is growing like mad. I have two rocks, one is a lava rock with tons of little holes and the other is ruff but no real holes. I have sand now for like a month and I used to have shells too but I changed my mind with those and took them out a week ago. I could say that the blue platy may have had what it died from before I got her but the messed up NO 2 and 3 wouldn't have helped. I have have a few tanks before but I've never had this problem before.
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
There could well be more than one issue playing into this. Let's take one thing at a time.
First, these numbers for nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3). If nitrite really is 10 ppm (which equals 10 mg/l), no fish can live in this. So right away I must question the test results. The inaccuracy of test strips was mentioned back in the thread, though I would not expect it to be this far off. However, you did mention adding salt, and one thing salt does is help with nitrite, so this may have factored in. But nitrite above zero is danger no matter what.
You have not given us test numbers for the tap water alone, not tank water, for nitrite and nitrate. It is important to know if this may be a source, which is possible. When diagnosing trouble you must eliminate all possibles to find the cause.
It sounds like the substrate was changed a week ago, that would have lost bacteria. Was the filter touched at all, either cleaned or media replaced? And you say this tank was initially cycled?
Aside from salt, was any other substance added to this tank for the ich, or anything else?
I put the numbers in my last post, 12:28 pm. The sand has been in the tank for about a month, I removed the shells that I used as decor. I used only aquarium salt and higher temps for the ich. I tested the fresh water twice and the aquarium water once before and then after. I haven't changed the filter and I haven't rinsed it cartage nor the bio mesh in like 3 weeks, I usually get a month out of the filter minimum. I keep my temp in the upper 70s Fahrenheit and I keep the small air pump going 24/7. I have 2 ghost shrimp, a bamboo shrimp, golden snail and a locha kuhlii for cleaning up. The water smell okay and nothing feels slimy.
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
Thanks. My fault, I mixed up the first sentence in your previous post and didn't realize this was tap. So seems to be no issue there, which is one less issue to worry about.
You can rinse the filter media every week during the water change, but in some tank water in a bucket, not under the tap, at least at this stage. This will clean the media of detritus but not harm the bacteria. I wouldn't replace the filter media (even if the manufacturer recommends this) as it is usually not necessary; provided the water still flows through the foam/pads, just rinsing them out is fine.
What water conditioner are you using?
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
Carbon does give out in time, depending upon how much stuff it is adsorbing. But I think most would agree that it is wasting money to keep replacing it for the good it does.
I would keep up with the daily water changes until ammonia and nitrite are zero, and nitrate is low (below 20 ppm). Certainly do not add more fish until this is resolved, and then carefully select suitable fish. This is a small tank at 12 gallons. You mentioned plants; a floating plant would help as these are fast growing and thus remove nutrients and ammonia faster.
the tank I'm referring to is 30gal that I went to from the 12gal. I believe that I'm done with stocking the 30 gal, just waiting for the platys breed to fill things out.
I have a 20 gal tall tank that want to make a marine tank but I want the freshwater tank to be stable first.
I have a 20 gal tall tank that want to make a marine tank but I want the freshwater tank to be stable first.
