I misunderstood re the plants. You are about to encounter the storm of an uncycled tank. It is just starting and the ammonia shoild rise to toxic levels and so should nitrite.
I would follow a completely different course of action than massive water changes. There are several ways you can deal with a fish-in cycle gone wild. One is to remove all the fish if the store will take them back or you can find other fish keepers who night do so. Then yiou can switch over to ding a fishless cycle. Next best is to reduce the stock as much as you can. The fish make ammonia so the fewer you have the less that will be made and the easier it will be to complete the cycle with no harm to any fish. However, this means once the tank is cycled for a few fish, you must add ne fish gradually.
The next best solution would be to the a bottle of Dr. Tim's One and Only Nitrifying Bacteria and add it to the tank. If you do this make sure you do a water change before you add it and turn out the light for the next day. The cheapest place I hve been able to find Dr. Tim's is on Amazon. That is where I buy it if I need it.
Your current tank parameters mean you should not need to change any water yet. The two gouramis on the bottom are trying to avoid trouble. If the ammonia level in the tank were toxic to the fish more than those two would be showing indications. You should reduce your feeding as well. Fish do not need to eat every day and you should be OK feeding them every 3rd day until the tank is cyled.
If your pH remains at 7 and you keep the temp under 77, the Total Ammonia (the combination of both ammonia NH3 + ammonium NH4) can rise a lot more before the NH3 component becomes toxic for sure, i.e. 0.05 ppm. Technically, for it to reach that level in your water parameters, it would have to rise to 9.0 ppm, on the test kit which likely doesn't go that high. However, ammonium, NH4, while no where near as toxic as NH3, can still do harm. I tend to advise folks that at over 2 ppm you may want to do a water change if the fish are showing any signs of a bad reaction.
While higher levels of ammonia can kill pretty fast, prolonged exposure to lower levels can also do harm. Watch for signs of ammonia poisoning as I described above. But remember that every water change one has to do during cycling slows the process. The bacteria we need reproduce in response to excess ammonia or nitrite. Therefore, the less of this we leave in the tank, the slower the cycle will progress.
The aboves why I will never suggest that anyone do a fish-in cycle. Having cycled over 100+ tanks/filters, only my very first tank was a fish-in cycle. A fish-in cycle is a battle between too little and too much ammonia. In order to make the cycle happen as quicly as possible without harming any fish is a balancing act.
One final note re ammonia toxicity. Different fish are more or less susceptible to different levels. There is no one universal number one can apply. However, that 0.05 ppm level is where it will start to do harm, how much is the issues. And as it rises from there it is for sure harming fish more and more. if you are curious how I know how much ammonia in any tank is in each form, I use and ammonia calculator here
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.php
1. Choose NH (NH3 + NH4)*
2. Enter in the total ammonia reading from your test, choose ppm.
3. For a fresh water tank, enter 0 for the salinity.
4. Enter your tank’s current pH.
5. Enter your tank temperature and choose F or C, whichever applies.
6. Click Calculate.
The number you want to know is the one for
NH3.
[* If your kit measures ammonia as nitrogen aka –N, choose NH-N (NH3-N + NH4-N) in step 1. above.]
Ammonia test kits do not typically measure NH3 directly but instead measure the combination of NH3 and NH4+, referred to as total ammonia nitrogen (TAN). A TAN <1 mg/L is usually not cause for concern unless the pH is >8.5. However, if the amount of NH3 is increased, an explanation should be sought. The amount of toxic NH3 present can be calculated using the TAN, pH, and water temperature. When NH3 levels exceed 0.05 mg/L*, damage to gills becomes apparent; levels of 2 mg/L are lethal for many fish. Fish exposed to ammonia may be lethargic and have poor appetites. Acute toxicity may be suggested by neurologic signs such as spinning, disorientation, and convulsions.
ftom the Merck Veterinary Manual: Environmental Diseases in Aquatic Systems-
Nitrogenous Compounds
https://www.merckvetmanual.com/exot...nmental-diseases-in-aquatic-systems#v23353510
* 1mg/L = 1 ppm
Adding a filter does nothing. It isn't the filter that removes ammonia or nitrite, it is the bacteria that will colonize the filter as well as many of the other hard surfaces in a tank.