Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification

Yeah I know, just want to make sure becasue without that connector O-ring and lube, your forced to manhandle these valves. I hear similar things FX5 owners who never lube then reach in and just twist full strength snapping the valve then complain. I don't know what the CFS500 valve cost but they cant be as much as the FX5, Id check with the eBay sellers or online. The FX5 are better but will suffer thye same fate eventually if not maintained and handled properly (rocked back & forth gently to open before turning fully)

As far as the poly-quilt removal there is a method. Rolling it off like a carpet rather then pulling up removes it without much sticking. Just takes a technique as I have use both thick batten and thin batten split in half. The thicker is easier to remove (roll-off) but splitting saves money and I cut supply and energy corners wherever I can and its paid off big time.
 
silentcircuit said:
He's talking about the part that actually moves, the shut-off. If I understand correctly It's leaking out of the side opposite the "tab" used to open and close the shutoff.
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This is exactly correct :)

And btw Gunner, I've done all of the mods that have been explored in this thread but thanks for watching out. I thought I was in the clear after changing out the o-rings and making that plywood support but then this happens.
 
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Just realize that these valves are plastic its important to work them after they have been sitting for a long time in one position. So its important to place your full hand and palm on the valve wing and rock it with gentle pressure back and for the to get the O-ring inside the valve body unstuck from where it has been sitting for months holding back water pressure in the same position. Force it open/closed and the plastic starts to stress. There are not too many low cost circumference canister filters made for the hobby market becasue they are too effective and cost the trade organization too much lost money in basket media accessories and becasue 1 circumference filter is so efficient and effective that it does the work of 4 inline basket filters per volume. For the cost and results I get with these filters its well worth the minor mods I had to do, and I have the inline stacked basket filters in storage to prove it that I cant even sell. Since Im a widow now and live along I think my next step will be to go to a centralized 50 gallon circumference filter made up of hand selected pool filter parts that run silent and saves even more money and materials. This is why in both small and large commercial applications you will never-ever see an inline basket filter used because manufactures know that unlike the romance of the home hobby market commercial industry will not put up with gimmickry, they want results.
 
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hey i have a fluval 404 and i like your modification.. how well dors it work. i was thinking making the changes that you made to yours
 
tstonar22 said:
hey i have a fluval 404 and i like your modification.. how well dors it work. i was thinking making the changes that you made to yours
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You should reply to the your question to the thread addressing the Fluval 404 Mod as this is the CFS500 thread..
 
Just wanted to say thanks for all the good information on upgrading this filter. Just got mine yesterday and did all the mods before I even plugged it in. Runs good, only problem was I got clear 1" ID hose from Home Depot and on the outlet valve/hose connection I had to really tighten the metal clamp down hard or it would leak. One thing I was wondering about was with the wood ring mod (which I did) why wouldn't it be better to use metal, like aluminum? Wouldn't the metal stay more rigid and spread out the pressure on the whole lid more than a 1/4" piece of plywood?
 
treym563 said:
Just wanted to say thanks for all the good information on upgrading this filter. Just got mine yesterday and did all the mods before I even plugged it in. Runs good, only problem was I got clear 1" ID hose from Home Depot and on the outlet valve/hose connection I had to really tighten the metal clamp down hard or it would leak. One thing I was wondering about was with the wood ring mod (which I did) why wouldn't it be better to use metal, like aluminum? Wouldn't the metal stay more rigid and spread out the pressure on the whole lid more than a 1/4" piece of plywood?
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Yes aluminum would be stronger but is allot more difficult and expensive for average fish keeper to DIY. Also since aluminum is inherently much harder then wood contact between the metal and plastic will cause pressure points unless a rubber, leather, plywood or neoprene gasket is used between the alum & plastic lid. The plywood is much easier to acquire, is ridged enough and sides can be flipped every media-change to prevent any long term warping. Otherwise yes if you have the money for the materials and tools to craft it you could even make one from stainless-steel.:)
 
Gunner's right; using metal (of an appropriate thickness) IS better but the reason I chose plywood was that I already had it lying around. Even if I did have some type of sheet metal, I don't have the tools to work with it.

I took Silent's advice and used a marine epoxy that I found at Lowe's to seal the valve in the open position. I let that sit for a couple days, hooked it up, and voila no more leaking.
 
Okay, as long as the wood works I'll just stick with is since it is much easier to work with. I'll have to look into sealing the valves open
 
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