Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification

Quick update on my modded support:

That horribly cracked lid actually lasted about 6 weeks before it showed any sign of leaking. I decided to purchase a new lid when I finally started noticing small infrequent drops coming from it. It wasn't bad at all; it probably would have been fine sitting in a small bucket but I figured I might as well just go ahead and replace it but with this mod on a new lid I don't expect to go through that again any time soon. Thanks for reminding people about my mod Gunner :)
 
No problem as I had to use your mod myself. The even pressure of your wood support flange really make the difference preventing cracks and leaks in the first place and actually requires allot less tightening. The only improvement I could see if one were made out of aluminum or stainless steel, but actually wood is just fine and easy to DIY. Be it far from me not to give credit where credit is due ;^D
 
So I just did the first cleaning of my filter since setting it up, roughly 6 weeks or so ago. The poly batting was so essentially non-existent. It was in shreds and so clung to the sponge I almost didn't get it off. Is this normal? Or did I buy the wrong stuff. It was quilters batting from Joanne's.
 
Which density did you get? They have from 4-10 (can't remember units of measure), 4 being the least dense. I like to use the 6 as it's thick enough to remove some of the finer particles while staying in one piece but not too thich that it doesn't block water passage throughout the canister. There's probably always going to be pieces that stick to the sponge but it shouldn't affect anything. Get off what you easily can and move on.
 
AAHH..I don't think I realized there were different densities. I just grabbed the cheapest and moved on. OK...thanks. I'll go back and check it out.
 
So now I'm actually having an issue with the orange valve leaking. Water is leaking out on the opposite side of where you turn (in-between where the part is fixed and where it's sliding). I have no clue if It's able to be taken apart and repaired or what. I think Gunner said in one of his posts that the fx5 valve fits this filter. Can anyone think of any possible remedies before I dish out $20+ for a new valve? Thanks.
 
I don't think that's going to be user-serviceable. It'd probably crack in the course of getting it apart -- very tight with little or nothing in the way of visible clips, at least on mine. Were it me, I'd put the affected valve on the output side, then cover it in epoxy stuck in the open position. That way when you empty the filter of water for service (have it pump back to the tank) you'll still be able to close the input side and avoid water getting out, but you can lift the mostly empty filter so the output tube empties on its own. Not ideal, but saves you $15 or so. More if you already have epoxy.
 
Or if its too tight you could buy the correct size O-Ring. Besides having the correct size O-ring (posted on this thread) every time I service my filter I lube the valve gates and gate O-rings (inside ON/OFF O-ring) with plumbers bees wax. Mine work great but I probubly handle and service mine difference like in my tutorial. Like all machines their working parts require PM (preventative maintenance) not just filter replacement.
 
I don't think he's talking about that part of the valve, gunner. He's talking about the part that actually moves, the shut-off. If I understand correctly It's leaking out of the side opposite the "tab" used to open and close the shutoff.
 
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