Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification

exactly hot water will make that hose fit and give a nice tight seal when it cools.
 
If anything the thick green smooth hoses are oversize and most were concerned that the plastic clamps would not hold them in place, they will if the clamps are pre-sized then slipped over the crimp area fitting tight. They have the largest inside diameter and are the easiest to slip on compared to lets say the Magnum 350 clear hoses where hot water is needed just to slip them on the fittings. These big green clear hoses only require hot water for shaping around cabinets but honestly with the new O-ring mod the valves compensate by being able to swivel in any direction without leaking just like the FX5.

The new thinner plastic corrugated hoses are a bit tighter and require some strong arming but because corrugated easily bend to shape around cabinets and are lighter they are easier to work with. However it depends on your point of view as some see problems more then solutions.
 
One thing another reader pointed out to me worth mentioning and with respect to my earlier post below, is that because of the canisters bulkhead wiring design the stock pump could also simply be replaced with a more powerful submersible pump like a Rio HF 20 pond pump with 1300 GPH would fit right in the bottom after tracing and cutting a tight fitting bottom sponge with 360 degree circumference clearance and 300 SI surface area would not even phase the filters ability to cope with the increased GPH and would hardly be noticeable. Worth mentioning becasue it is a much cheaper and easier upgrade for filtering much larger tanks and solution for those concerned over a future CFS500 pump failures.

My future CFS 1200 MOD. The effective size and performance would be on par with the Ocean Clear 1200 costing $300 more.
1200GPHMOD.jpg
 
All you have to do is read a few post back as well as post as the answer is there. But if you insist and cant wait go to Lowe’s or HD hose real rack and pay $3 a foot for something that looks less like total junk IYO
:idea:

So it looks like the new hoses are not that bad. It was just that trying to fit it on, I was very concerned the hose would split. It turns out that now 1/2 the o-rings are the right size(on the inflow/outflow) and 1/2 are too big(on the canister). I should be in good shape after a trip to home depot.
 
So it looks like the new hoses are not that bad. It was just that trying to fit it on, I was very concerned the hose would split. It turns out that now 1/2 the o-rings are the right size(on the inflow/outflow) and 1/2 are too big(on the canister). I should be in good shape after a trip to home depot.
Actually I never mentioned this in my original review becasue it seemed silly, but all those tiny O-rings they place on the end of all the hose connectors are a total joke and can actually interfere with the ability of the hose to naturally seal on the fitting, by deforming and causing a leak under the hose. I have never-ever seen the use of O-rings on pliable sealing hose to hard metal/plastic fitting, all those tiny silly O-rings I received on my 2 CFS500's were pulled off and piled up inside my garage mixed parts box. The only O-rings you need to concern yourself with are the ones used for hard-surface to hard-surface contact, like lid to canister, valves to spouts, and bulkhead male & female fitting, all of which are hard to hard surface contacts.
 
i just purchased my first CFS-500 and when it arrives it will hopefully be filtering my 130, if it fits under the tank.

I'll probably order another :) thanks for all the help Gunner!
 
i just purchased my first CFS-500 and when it arrives it will hopefully be filtering my 130, if it fits under the tank.

I'll probably order another :) thanks for all the help Gunner!
Dont forget to invest $2 at HD and buy the correct size valve-stem O-rings listed in privious post. Even having to force the gate-valves onto the stem 1 time by great force using those stock defective o-rings runs a risk of causing damage to the stem.
 
My older cabinet 9" door openings were barley too small to allow the lid rim to pass through so all I did was mark the opening with a sharpie at the hight where the lid hit, and cut two small notches in the door opening. This allowed the canister to pass through without being able to see the notches once the door was closed as the door is always a little bigger then the opening, worked great.
 
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