Ordered a new canister filter.

My only experience with canisters are 3 Rena XP-3s & a Fluval 404 I was given. I will never buy a Fluval, but I have to think they are improved over mine...I can almost autopilot with the Renas, my firsts. I don't have experience with Eheims...the flow rate seems lame compared to my Renas...but that may be the Pro vs Eco vs ? the current model? whatever that is...The fluval 404 was very hard to open & close & seal well & then the hoses rotted out...

For HOBs I'm all AquaClears...but have a few Whispers I've had forever...I may be down to 1 or 2 after 30+ years but there are better...ACs all the way! OK, never had a Magnum 350...
 
Magnum all the way for 40+ years.
 
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Flow rate is overrated. Media volume and type is much more important. Circulation in the tank is also more important. I tend to run at least 2 filters on most tanks. For example, I habe a 15 gal. planted tank with an AC 100 (20) on each end. I have a 150 gal with and Eheim Pro II 2026, an AC 500 (110) and a H.O.T. Magnum. I have 75 with a canister and then two powerheads with big foam pre-filters and one with the venturi hooked to small air pump.

On small tank a single filter is asked to provide filtration, circulation and surface agitation. In a bigger tank this works should not come from a single device in most cases. For one, this mean if a filter quits. the tank can die. In my tanks, a single filter failure will not crash the tank.

I purchased a used 75 many years ago and it came with a Fluval canister. I sold the filter for $25 and applied that to a new Eheim. At that time i considered the Rena canister as the next best choice and that Fluval was not an option. That was over 15 years ago.

p.s. Most tanks also have two heaters in/on them.
 
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Got my new Eheim yesterday. As luck would have it, it's got some damage. It came packed in a plain brown outer box that contained the actual product box. I noticed some rattling as I was unpacking it. The cover on the power head was ajar and two of the mounting tabs that hold the cover on the power head were broken off. See the pics below. The red arrows point to where the tabs are broken off. You can see the outlines in the plastic as to where they should be mounted.

The cover will still snap in place and I'm pretty sure it will still work as-is, it's just you hate paying for damaged goods. I contacted the seller instead of setting it up. This was an eBay purchase.. Probably should have paid a bit more for the Amazon one. Who knows..

Overall the unit looks good, but man does it feel flimsy. Even after all these years in the hobby, I've never owned an Eheim product to compare it to, but I'm sure they're not how they used to be. The hose and tubing are a very small diameter for the 350 / 2215. Much smaller than the competition's hoses. The outflow hook is just that. A hook that you need to use a small section of cut hose to make kind of an S-bend to the side, allowing you to attach the spray bar to the glass (if you want to use the spray bar). The instructions are indeed pitiful like they seem to be for all filters. If you had zero clue on how to set one up, you'd never get it setup properly with the included paperwork.

One thing that it does have going for it is the amount of bio media included. A huge bag of small ceramic type material cylinders and smaller bag of ceramic tubes/rings. The only mechanical media is a single coarse sponge disk and a floss disk with some type of black carbon batting bonded to it. I usually prefer to not run the floss pads. If I do wind up using this filter, I want some more sponge in it. I may or may not use the included bio media.

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Hopefully the seller will send out a new unit or at least refund some money. You are correct the cover won't affect the filter operation but may cause rattling noise when in operation.

I also agree the Classic filter instructions leave a lot to be desired especially for someone that may be new to canister filters.

Actually the tubular shaped media is considered coarse media and does a dual purpose; it catches large debris and disperses the incoming water evenly.

Keep us posted on how things go.
 
@ fishorama

There is nothing wrong with high flow, it just should not normally be produced by one's filter. That is why we have powerheads and circulation pumps. The bacteria are basically immobile, anything they need must be delivered. Dwell times matter in that the faster the water goes through the bio-film where the bacteria live, the less time there is to extract things from it. Of course there is a rate of flow through a filter that can be too low, that is, it is sub-optimal for the task at hand.

One can have strong current in a tank and a lesser flow through a filter at the same time.
 
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That true, TTA, I was just trying to clarify those differences in my tanks for my fish (ymmv = your mileage may differ)

FF, if parts are broken the seller should replace or refund their replacement cost. I'm sorry you were disappointed...but the Eheim clips are a problem & have been for a while from people I know (not sure of the models).
 
@ fishorama

There is nothing wrong with high flow, it just should not normally be produced by one's filter. That is why we have powerheads and circulation pumps. The bacteria are basically immobile, anything they need must be delivered. Dwell times matter in that the faster the water goes through the bio-film where the bacteria live, the less time there is to extract things from it. Of course there is a rate of flow through a filter that can be too low, that is, it is sub-optimal for the task at hand.

One can have strong current in a tank and a lesser flow through a filter at the same time.

You know, TTA, you make some good points. I'm not going to contest them. However, I have to say nitrification in aquariums with a high bioload may be as dependent on flow rate through the filters as it is on media quality and volume.

I'm used to keeping highly over-stocked tanks of Rift Valley cichlids and tanks full of large Central American cichlids and catfish, which put a significantly greater bioload on filters than a tank with a more typical stocking level. Now, I'm going to use the WWTP (waste water treatment plant) at work as an example since actual nitrification efficiency at different ppm and flow rates had been calculated, and actual efficiency and actual flow rates are hard to accurately quantify for aquarium filters. I can also actually provide numbers to illustrate my point. Anyways, the WWTP had two bioreactors, which are just what they sound like. Their purpose was to provide substrate and adequate DO for nitrifying bacteria. The actual surface area of the media was calculated and the amount of media was added based on operating conditions. Each bioreactor was rated to treat 20 ppm (or lower) of ammonia at 360 gpm (gallons per minute). So if the ammonia increased to 25 ppm, we had to put the second reactor in service. If the ammonia continued to rise to greater than 20 ppm at the maximum flow of 720 gpm, then we had to make changes in operations to either reduce ammonia or we had to reduce the flow of polluted water to the WWTP. Basically, we had to decrease the bioload on the filters. We did have some leeway up to 25-30 ppm at lower flow rates, but not much. We also could have added more biomedia to each reactor, but it wouldn't have mattered since the pumps were only rated for 360 gpm each and we wouldn't have been able to get enough flow through the reactors to allow for nitrification.

It's the same thing when considering a stocking level that is three, four, or maybe even five or six times what is considered "typical" by the "average" hobbyist for a given size tank. At some point the media quality and volume becomes irrelevant because enough flow cannot be put through the filter to allow complete nitrification because the bioload is too great. The solution is to add another filter to allow greater processing flow of the water, or to reduce the stocking level. My own experiences over the past 30+ years of working with cichlids plays this out. When dealing with RV cichlids, reduced stocking levels can make it extremely difficult to manage aggression and ensure the fish stay stress-free and healthy. With pairs of large cichlids, it often is better to keep the fry with the parents until they are 0.5 to 1 inch. The high flow rates so many cichlid hobbyists recommend is less about maintaining O2 levels and more about ensuring that adequate nitrification occurs. And honestly, I'm not aware of a reasonably priced filter in the hobby that allows for the necessary nitrification at the these stocking levels when applying your philosophy.

This isn't criticism of your philosophy and I'm not saying it is wrong. After 30+ years as a cichlidophile and sharing experiences with members of the ACA and RMCA I have a tendency to frame things in terms of keeping cichlids, which isn't always necessary or even beneficial for the well-being of "other" fish (like there IS anything besides cichlids ?). This thread and your perspective have made me take a different look at the hobby in general and to rethink some of my "rules" about fishkeeping.

WYite
 
If I have one skill in this hobby it is being able to overstock tanks to their max. capacity and keep the fish healthy.

The bacteria with which you are familiar are not the same ones in our tanks. There is little or no Nitrobacter, it is Nitrospira that handle nitrite and which, according to more recent studies, can also process ammonia straight through to nitrate. Additionally, ammonia oxidizing Archaea have been discovered and to be present in some tanks.

Waste treatment is not a good comparison for what occurs in tanks. It is not possible to stock a tank to where it can produce the concentrations of ammonia or nitrite with which you work. Moreover, tanks, once stocked to their maximum capacity (meaning overstocked to where it would become unhealthy to add any more) do not surge ammonia etc. And lets not even bother talking about the volumes of water with which you work and those with which almost all fish keepers work. You talk about GPM and our filters are rated in GPH.

You talk about max. Flow rates in your bio-reactors. It seems to me that there are bigger pumps available. You operation might have considered upgrading the pumps. or how about adding a pump to increase the flow through the bio-reactor? My guess is this might have created to much flow and risked losing bio-film due to the shear forces that come with flow?

I understand about being able to calculate surface area needed for any bio-remediation. However, a tank an enclosed system and yours is a constant flow propositions. Only the flow rate of new water changes but it pretty much doesn't stop. In a tank we get the bacteria wherever it can thrive, not just in a filters. If there is too little media provided in a filter or filters, the bacteria will multiply elsewhere in a tank, especially the top half inch or so of the substrate.

A lot of waste water treatment is done using trickle filters, unless I am wrong. The major change over the last 60 odd years is the media now used is plastic. A trickle filter is what we in the hobby would call a wet/dry. Here is and interesting piece of info from Science Direct re Trickling Filter:

Biological Filtration
Miklas Scholz, in Wetlands for Water Pollution Control (Second Edition), 2016
13.3 Basic Ecology
Trickling filters are well known for their ecological diversity of life forms participating in the wastewater’s stabilization. These include prokaryotic and eukaryotic organisms as well as higher life forms such as rotifers, nematodes, annelid worms, snails, and many insect larvae.
The bacteria are active in the uptake and degradation of soluble organic matter. Nitrifying bacteria convert ammonia to nitrate. In a low-rate trickling filter, there is a high nitrifier population and the effluent is well nitrified. In a high-rate filter, there is more “sloughing” of the biomass due to higher fluid shear, and so little or no nitrification takes place.
You can rad more here: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sciences/trickling-filter

As I said in my first post, there is a lower limit to effective flow rates in a filter. However, most of the time filters never approach that rate. but an interesting clue can be found in the design of AquaClear power filters. These come with an adjustable flow rate. Unless the instructions have changed since I accumulated my ACs, they state that the flow rate can be reduced to 1/3 of the filter's rated capacity.

I highly doubt that Hagen would make a filter where one can reduce the flow rate to the point where the filter could not still provide sufficient capacity to meet what it claims to be the max. tank size fot the filter. Of course they do not have to keep more than normal full stocking safe. that responsibility belongs to us.

What I do know is the most effective filters I have now have the largest volumes of media and surface area and the some of the lowest flow rates i have used. I am not suggesting anybody shop from this site, that decision is up to you. But the information there is superb. I now have Hamburg Mattenfilters on 3 tanks with more to get converted. The flow rates are on the slower side, but more than sufficient to do the job better than most other filters i have used. Read more about Mattenfilter.

One last comment, if you do read on the Swiss Tropicals site, you will see some things re filtration and "ecological diversity of life forms participating" and "prokaryotic and eukaryotic organisms as well as higher life forms such as rotifers, nematodes, annelid worms, snails, and many insect larvae." If you read this section: Aquarium Biofiltration
 
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