Overflow/sump setup questions

turns out i have the black acrylic peice that holds the filter pad and drips onto the bio balls, so im thinking of using a 10 or 5.5 gal tank to create a wet/dry filter. im thinking of using the exact same design of the Eshopps setup,

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18367

but using plates of glass instead of plastic sheets

what do you think?
 
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i like to use 29 gallon tanks for wet dry filters i think 10 gallon or smaller isnt adequate.
 
i guess im only going to have a 10 or 20 gal tank, dont think i have the funds to go with a 40 gal tank.
 
sumps can be ,: wet/dry, refugiums, etc..etc
a sump is basically and extra tank the aquarium drains into.

how you configure the sump is entirely up to you.

the usual thought is to get the largest one that is practical...

I've seen large rubbermaid tubs used with those portable tray stackers used as the wet/dry. throw in a baffle to help diffuse the water turbulence and bingo..
 
im thinking of making one of these:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18367

out of a 10 gal aquarium, i will use a glass plate, some egg crate and a few super glued acrylic strips to hold in the bioballs, and the filter plate. i have the filter plate from the eshopps wet dry(got it in an ebay buy with a lot of other crap.)

im thinking about adding a baffle in the middle between where the pump is and where the biomedia drains into to keep a constant level, around 1/2-3/4 full.


would that work?
 
bump
 
sure it would work but careful on the water level in the sump. when i set up a new wet dry i connect everything up hang the overflow box at the level in the tank i want it, then fill the inside skimmer part full of water and fill the outer side of the over flow with water till it reaches the tube to drain down to the filter.
then i fill the sump about 1/2 full make sure it covers the pump and what ever else you put in there.
then plug in the pump and your overflow box should start right up and water begins flowing down to the filter. i let it run a few minutes then unplug the pump and see how much water flows out of the tank till it stops. then i take a black marker pen and use a ruler to make a line on the filter showing the high water level mark when say a power failure would happen. and i make a 1/2 full mark when i first start the filter so i know where to fill it to when i need to add water due to evaporation which will happen.
all this is just to make sure if power fails and your filter stops your not going to flood the area dude to having a sump with to much water it cant hold what drains out of the tank before it breaks syphon on the reverse flow.
make sure you add a small hole on your return flow pipe that hangs in the tank from your pump just under the water line you decide you want for your tank that way when pump is off and water starts to flow back down that pump tube that hole will help break the syphon and water will stop leaving the tank. if you dont do that then it will drain down till have ever far that pipe is hanging in you tank and that can be a disaster if your sump isnt large enough to hold all those gallons of water.
 
thanks for the info Rod!
 
hi guys i am planning a 100gal tank and i was thinking of building a sump setup with one of the algae nitrate/phosphate removers. what size sump tank should i use?
 
atleast a 45 gal sump.
 
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