Phosphates gone Mad!

A

andyjh

AC Members
Feb 18, 2009
574
3
18
Massachusetts
I've been battling some bba and everyone kept saying to check the phosphate level in the tank. I purchased an API phosphate kit, and results were off the charts "deep blue", indicating 10 ppm phosphates. I don't overfeed the tank and can't imagine what's causing the high reading. I also tested, plain tapwater, and that was measuring close to 2 ppm, so the tap water itself isn't great going into the tank. Is it time to run some Phosban or other phosphate absorbing compound? Any ideas?
thanks.
 
Whoever told you that BBA and phosphates were related at all should be kicked in the shins for hours.

BBA and phosphates have no relation.

Phosphates, which are intentionally dosed into an aquarium at around 5-10PPM help feed plants and also PREVENT ALGAE. Green spot algae (GSA) or green dust algae....the stuff that grows on the glass of your tank can be eliminated by having more than 5ppm of phosphate in your tank.

so to answer your question, no, no phosban or other junk like that.

to further help your bba problem, which is directly related to fluctuating co2 levels in a tank and further aided with lots of light.
You need a constant level of co2 in your tank. My guess is you have a rather bright light, or high light, and dont inject co2. or if you do inject co2 it is not pressurized (aka, DIY or store bought hagen type product that hangs on the side of your tank). you need to properly balance co2, nutrients, and light.

Please describe your entire setup.

enjoy!
 
Wow! Thanks for the clarification on the BBA/phosphates. As for the BBA, I do have pressuriized CO2, with very consistant levels as measured by my drop checker. Lighting is on from 1:30pm to 9:30pm and the fixture is a Catalina T6HO with (3) 54 watt bulbs. I use the EI dosing methods for ferts and do a 50% weekly water change.
 
In previous post I meant to say T5HO and not T6. Distance from light to top of substrate is 20". Should have mentioned this is a standard 75 gallon tank.
 
I figured you meant t5....although t6 apparently does exist(i was looking it up).
20", eh? you only have 1" of substrate?
With that light, and the distance between light and substrate you are officially in the "crap your pants high light category".

basically by the time you get enough co2 in there to combat bba, you will gas your fish. Is your drop checker green? Are you using 4dkh solution in it?


fixes:
Mount your light 28" above your substrate
Remove, or turn off, one bulb from your fixture (note, make sure you are able to do this first.

**Please note how I am measuring from your bulbs to your substrate.
 
That distance of 20" varies somewhat as my substrate depth changes. It ranges from about an inch to about 3 inches. The light is currently mounted using the standard legs which keeps it a couple of inches off the top. I do have the ability to switch off one of the bulbs. I never thought of this as "high light" set-up even with all three bulbs on as this comes to approx. 2 wpg as I calculate it.
 
andyjh said:
That distance of 20" varies somewhat as my substrate depth changes. It ranges from about an inch to about 3 inches. The light is currently mounted using the standard legs which keeps it a couple of inches off the top. I do have the ability to switch off one of the bulbs. I never thought of this as "high light" set-up even with all three bulbs on as this comes to approx. 2 wpg as I calculate it.
Click to expand...
WPG is so terribly misleading. PAR is what you really want to pay attention to.
check this:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/105774-par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc.html
 
I have to take exception to a couple of the statements in this thread. 2 WPG is nowhere near "crap your pants" high category.

Also, suggested ratio of N,P,K is 10:1:10. I don't know anyone who purposely doses phosphate to 10 ppm (N and K dosed up to 100 ppm!?)
Get your co2 to a constant 30 ppm. Try to dose N @20ppm and K @ 20ppm, that way the 2 ppm P from the tap should be fine. If your tank is making that much P then a good cleaning may be in order. Excel, prime (added directly to the algae) and peroxide will all kill bba. Bleach dip will as well but it can damage the leaves and make them nappy lookin'.

Also, I'd run two lamps for 8 to 10 hours a day and run the other for a 3 hour noonday blast.

Mark
 
wesleydnunder said:
I have to take exception to a couple of the statements in this thread. 2 WPG is nowhere near "crap your pants" high category.
Considering WPG is pure non-sense and wrong and no where near a good idea, it is only 1/2 sub-par adequate for standard t8 lighting. Once you are into the t5ho area it becomes even more terribly and completely wrong and inaccurate. So, my statement was that 3 t5ho bulbs 20 inches above substrate level is "crap your pants high light", and it is, and i will back that up for the next 30 years. I never, ever, mentioned WPG in this thread.

Also, suggested ratio of N,P,K is 10:1:10. I don't know anyone who purposely doses phosphate to 10 ppm I do, and so do others.(N and K dosed up to 100 ppm!?)
Get your co2 to a constant 30 ppm. Try to dose N @20ppm and K @ 20ppm, that way the 2 ppm P from the tap should be fine. If your tank is making that much P then a good cleaning may be in order. Excel, prime (added directly to the algae) you mean excel made by seachem, correct? Yea, that will kill it, but it wont fix the problem where your light is too high and peroxide will all kill bba. Bleach dip will as well but it can damage the leaves and make them nappy lookin'. Still wont fix the problem where your light is too high

Also, I'd run two lamps for 8 to 10 hours a day and run the other for a 3 hour noonday blast. Again, still wont fix the problem where your light is too hig

Mark
Click to expand...

see above in red......
 
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