Interesting idea, but I don't know the limitations of different pumps and what exactly they mean by "running dry". I'm assuming that means they need water flowing "through" them to keep them from heating up. I'm sure the water around it on the outside will definately keep the temps down quite a bit though, but I'm just not sure. Also, there are some pumps that claim they will run dry for hours. But these pumps are usually more expensive. Many factors, but it's worth trying though! Either way, I'm sure they would last until you got home from work, but may be a problem on vacations.
(Potentially stupid) Sump Question
- Thread starter Wippit Guud
- Start date
Yea..thats the main problem though. IF it runs dry, the pump can break. BUT at least you dont have drill a hole in a glass tank 
There are some overflow boxes (the good ones) that will keep the syphon even if the power goes out. So, its 90 percent fool proof. Problem is that air bubbles can collect in the syphon and eventually break it. Supposedly, there is a tool to get rid of those bubbles.
There are some overflow boxes (the good ones) that will keep the syphon even if the power goes out. So, its 90 percent fool proof. Problem is that air bubbles can collect in the syphon and eventually break it. Supposedly, there is a tool to get rid of those bubbles.
I would imagine that it wouldn't be too hard to fashion a float-type shutoff, sort of like a sump-pump. In case you needed a good way to shut the whole thing down if the water level got too high.
a float switch?
you can buy a couple different kinds
there not cheap though
http://www.fishsupply.com/cgi-bin/f2/common/store.cgi?dbname=f2&path=top/S/SZ/SZFUL
you could buy cheap ones from a place like www.mcmastercarr.com but they are wired for 120 volts and you DONT want 120 volts running in your tank. There are a couple wiring diagrams out there on how to step down the voltage just search for "DIY float switch"
you can buy a couple different kinds
there not cheap though
http://www.fishsupply.com/cgi-bin/f2/common/store.cgi?dbname=f2&path=top/S/SZ/SZFUL
you could buy cheap ones from a place like www.mcmastercarr.com but they are wired for 120 volts and you DONT want 120 volts running in your tank. There are a couple wiring diagrams out there on how to step down the voltage just search for "DIY float switch"
Now we are getting some interesting DIY ideas. These sump ideas are new to me (and I've read hundreds of articles). Here's to using our heads for sumpin' besides a hat rack!!!
here are the reasons tanks overflow that ive seen.
1. siphon overflow system that allows air bubbles to accumulate in the tube. CPR and similar overflows are the most notorious.
2. not enough anti-siphon holes drilled in the return tubing. They commonly get caked over with either calcium buildup, or the little snail that sits over the hole.
3. A return pump that is too strong for the overflow system and cant be throttled back.
4. the overflow going down the sump isnt cleaned out and debris gets trapped in it.
5. the installation of the internal overflow box is done wrong... Ive seen it done wrong by the people at All-glass...
1. siphon overflow system that allows air bubbles to accumulate in the tube. CPR and similar overflows are the most notorious.
2. not enough anti-siphon holes drilled in the return tubing. They commonly get caked over with either calcium buildup, or the little snail that sits over the hole.
3. A return pump that is too strong for the overflow system and cant be throttled back.
4. the overflow going down the sump isnt cleaned out and debris gets trapped in it.
5. the installation of the internal overflow box is done wrong... Ive seen it done wrong by the people at All-glass...
