Yo man, do not add this. It's bad logic.
Listen, number one rule IN LIFE, not just fish stuff, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Are your plants dying? Are your fish dying? Is your water nasy? If you don't have any problems, don't start trying to fix s#!*. You should avoid adding chemicals if at all possible.
If you start noticing a problem, try to determine what the problem is, then find out how to resolve it.
This stuff isn't a fertilizer anyway. It's for RO/DI water. With RO water, your GH and KH are ZERO with a pH of 7.0. With a hardness of zero, any fertilizers or co2 you add to the water is going to cause HUGE pH swings. It's called buffering capacity. Hardness is used to determine how well your water can handle these additions.
In order to use RO/DI water, you have to reconstitute it. Meaning, you have to put the buffering capacity back in so it can handle the pH swings(what it does is, it minimizes the effect. With zero harness, the addition of co2 has the potential to drop your pH from 7.0 to 4.0, instead of from 7.0 to 6.4...just an example, not exact figures). This stuff is intended to reconstitute RO/DI water. It's not meant for tap water.
I realize you spent two bucks on it, but, give it away or something. You don't need it. Go on www.drsfosterandsmith.com, put together an order of stuff you want, and include the API Master Test Kit for $15.00 or whatever it is and get a GH and KH test. Truthfully, all you really need right now is pH, GH, and KH. The other tests can wait. If you suspect you'd like to mess with GH, you MUST test first. Messing with GH without the ability to test is Russion Roullette. You are BEGGING to screw something up. Water chemistry is delicate. Your fish and your plants will not be happy if you start messing with their water without knowing what's going on. You'll never know how high you get your GH, nor will you be able to judge just how high it'll raise.
Until you have the cash to get a test kit, I promise your water is fine as it is.
Listen, number one rule IN LIFE, not just fish stuff, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Are your plants dying? Are your fish dying? Is your water nasy? If you don't have any problems, don't start trying to fix s#!*. You should avoid adding chemicals if at all possible.
If you start noticing a problem, try to determine what the problem is, then find out how to resolve it.
This stuff isn't a fertilizer anyway. It's for RO/DI water. With RO water, your GH and KH are ZERO with a pH of 7.0. With a hardness of zero, any fertilizers or co2 you add to the water is going to cause HUGE pH swings. It's called buffering capacity. Hardness is used to determine how well your water can handle these additions.
In order to use RO/DI water, you have to reconstitute it. Meaning, you have to put the buffering capacity back in so it can handle the pH swings(what it does is, it minimizes the effect. With zero harness, the addition of co2 has the potential to drop your pH from 7.0 to 4.0, instead of from 7.0 to 6.4...just an example, not exact figures). This stuff is intended to reconstitute RO/DI water. It's not meant for tap water.
I realize you spent two bucks on it, but, give it away or something. You don't need it. Go on www.drsfosterandsmith.com, put together an order of stuff you want, and include the API Master Test Kit for $15.00 or whatever it is and get a GH and KH test. Truthfully, all you really need right now is pH, GH, and KH. The other tests can wait. If you suspect you'd like to mess with GH, you MUST test first. Messing with GH without the ability to test is Russion Roullette. You are BEGGING to screw something up. Water chemistry is delicate. Your fish and your plants will not be happy if you start messing with their water without knowing what's going on. You'll never know how high you get your GH, nor will you be able to judge just how high it'll raise.
Until you have the cash to get a test kit, I promise your water is fine as it is.