Suggest an RO/DI

Hopefully whatever Ro/Di I purchase will help me get rid of my algae problem.
 
If using RO wastewater in a freshwater tank, you don't need to add dechlorinator to the water, right? It should already have been filtered out by the previous stages?

Why would you want to do that? The waste water has concentrated solids like nitrate and ammonia.
 
We are talking freshwater, not marine. Those particular chemicals are greatly reduced by carbon blocks. Why would there be much ammonia in tap water? The rejected water from an RO is only 25% percent more concentrated than the originally carbon filtered water.

Is nitrate a huge issue in a planted freshwater tank?

Doesn't the typical freshwater fish,(unlike marine), see lots of chemical variety every time it rains?
 
Why would there be much ammonia in tap water? The rejected water from an RO is only 25% percent more concentrated than the originally carbon filtered water.

Well when I had just an RO only unit I was getting 0.25ppm of ammonia in the water. Well the scale block is between 0-0.25ppm so it was probably closer to 0. Anyway I got a DI section to remove that. If you had 25% more concentration I could see that not being good for freshwater as well.

I just don't see why you want to put all that crap in there. Some people do use RO water with an additive for their freshwater tanks.
 
How much water should be coming out of the RO unit? It seems like it is coming otu faster than 35 GPD
 
How much water should be coming out of the RO unit?

My system is rated for 75 GPD. That should be about 3.125 GPH. It's producing 4 GPH.

They say it takes a few days before the unit is "broken in" though.
 
Is it still safe to put in my tank though, since it is really broken in yet? Also, do I need to circulate and aearate the water just when I add salt or every time?
 
Is it still safe to put in my tank though, since it is really broken in yet? Also, do I need to circulate and aearate the water just when I add salt or every time?

My paperwork told me to "waste" the first hour's worth of water because of the chemical preservative applied at the factory to the RO membrane.

As long as your tank scenario includes a good amount of chaos from water falling/cascading into your sump or wet/dry, I wouldn't thing aerating topoff (non salt-water) is necessary.
 
I also found another problem. Not sure if I didn't flush the system correctly or not, but the pure water coming out had a yellow tint, so I am letting it run for another hour until it is gone.
 
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