SUNSUN HW-302 Outside Filter setup & test

So, you can then leave the filter housing where it is and just lift the baskets out and deal with them one by one - saving any hauling of the heavy water-filled canister? What about the problem of that it's filled right to the top and will get mess everywhere?

That why you use the bathtub and the drawback with top motor designed canisters.

With a powerful bottom motor like the FX5 you go through a short choreograph of valve movements and power on and off to get the canister empty of water without ever having to use a hose or bucket or move the canister. Here are the steps read carefully:

FX5:
1. with the motor still running and quickly shut off both orange in/out valves (1 on each hose).
2. Quickly shut off motor after having shut off both orange in/out valves as previously stated step 1.
3. With both orange in/out valves still in the shut position disconnect the IN-FLOW SIDE orange valve only and with hose from the canister and let it dangle.
4. Place the spare (3rd) orange valve provided with your FX5 into the IN-FLOW SIDE where the other was removed and place it in the OFF position,
5. Open the OUT-FLOW SIDE orange valve only.
5. Turn the motor on, and only after you turn on the motor crack upon the IN-FLOW SIDE orange valve only and air will flood the canister as the water in pumped into the tank, careful not to over fill the aquarium.
6. As soon as you hear gurgling meaning the canister is empty shut both orange valves on the canister (not the dangling valve already shut) and after you have shut both valves and only then do you shut the motor back off.
7. Remove 2 Lb empty canister to bath or change baskets on site.

This only works on the FX5 as the Magmum 350 motor is not powerful enough. I know casue I do it all the time.
 
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Originally Posted by Saje
So, you can then leave the filter housing where it is and just lift the baskets out and deal with them one by one - saving any hauling of the heavy water-filled canister? What about the problem of that it's filled right to the top and will get mess everywhere?


You don't want to ever open up your canister anywhere but a sink or your tub.
The shutoff valve will close off the nozzles leaving the pumphead with the canister so you can carry it to the sink. Get it now?
 
You could also take an old skate board (every garage has one left over) and make a little dolly for it and pull it to the bathroom then just use the strap to lift it up and over the bathtub wall.

Or you could have the canister sitting in a Sterilite or Tupperware tub, do all you washing on site they use your python to suck the black water out off the tub, seems like more work though.

Or drain only half the canister into the plastic tube and carry both to the tub.

I go through the same thing with my PS4 sump. They will tell you you can remove the baskets on site but water still spills all around and has to be cleaned up. Eventually even the sump has to go to the tube or turn into a funky nitrate factory.
 
When I first looked ate the twin valve connector on top of the filter I though it was just a dual hose disconnector and that water might spill out of the hoses. But in fact when you lift the lever it not only unlocks the twin connecter plate assembly from the canister, but also closes off the water in the two twin valves preventing water from coming out of the hoses.

We are not talking about the lid on the canister that's a completely different thing. Look at the picture on the box and you will see the black connector assembly sitting in the top of the white canister with the two hoses connected to it and a little paddle off to one side that simultaneously shuts the water off in both lines and lifts the entire black over piece you see off the whits canister that stays dangling under the cabinet while you trained dog carries the canister to the bathtub , removed the lid and begins cleaning the canister for you.

This answers my question to a T. Thank you. Once reconnected, and the valves open automaticly again, is there a need to use the primer again? Or will the siphon action from the valves opening refill the unit? I was under the impression at first that there was some cracking open of the hoses to relase head pressure and get the siphon going, but I am wondering if the plunger has enough umph to get the air going out the outlet on its own. I'm sure these are all things that I will find out for myself shortly.

By the way, thank you for the petrolium jelly tip. I would have never thought of that on my own but it makes so much sence. Impeller, hose fittings, O rings and gaskets, and tight fitting media baskets. I'm beginning to think that may help with a noisy impeller on a penguin HoB as well, considering its new and I've done everything I can to make sure the sucker is seated, straight, and free of debris.
 
Thanks Gunner - I appreciate your patience with someone who, clearly, knows nothing (yet) about canisters and their workings. I don't even have the advantage (yet) of having the box in front of me to look at. Truly - thanks for being kind and patient. I understand completely now - finally!

Mott:
You don't want to ever open up your canister anywhere but a sink or your tub.
The shutoff valve will close off the nozzles leaving the pumphead with the canister so you can carry it to the sink. Get it now?
Yes I do actually. I was having trouble imagining how it all worked but thanks to some good explanations, I got it now.
 
Just make sure you unplug the canister before doing any maintenance if not it is a shower and a half... :-)
 
Definitely a point to remember, Sounguru! ;)

BTW, as the eBay seller is out of the 302s for 3 weeks, I found another source - anyone have any experience dealing with this place? I will probably wait for the eBay seller since good CS was mentioned here (and their price is/was lower!), but if anyone has experience (good or bad) with this other guy, would love to hear it.
 
Right off the bat the base price is $16 more and they don't give shipping info until they get your billing info which is not good. I recommend calling them and finding out their shipping cost before committing but if the total cost is more then $5 difference Id say wait for the ebay seller to restock the 402 as I am sure he will list is for the exact same price of $43 plus $15 shipping.

If the ebay vendor raises the price in 3 weeks :nono:then I would definitely give this online vendor a try.
 
Nah, I'd never give billing info before knowing shipping - heck, they could then say it's $80 or something. I prefer to wait for the eBay seller for sure for a lot of reasons (assuming he leaves the price the same), but figured I'd see if anyone had any experience with this one. (The other thing that disturbs me about this one is that there is nothing, anywhere on that site, about the company itself.)
 
I bought mine from eBay. It showed up with water in it, and all the basket-handle tabs pre-broken.
Needless to say, I emailed the seller, and he seemed pretty shocked (well, as much so as you can in an email). He sent me a return shipping label, and I'm now waiting for another.
CS seems good, emails were answered within 24-48 hours, and I think I've got another on the way here again.
Quality appeared acceptable, and surprisingly good for < $50.
 
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