I'm going to convert all my tanks into planted tanks via the Diana Walstad method. With real soil.
Is it important that I get a CO2 test? And do I really need a nitrate test if I test for ammonia and nitrites? If I monitor those two, and keep those levels in check, do I really have to worry about testing for nitrate?
And can some one recommend a calcium test kit for freshwater? Thanks.
Some folks mineralize the soil first, some use worm castings, some use ADA aqua soil. They are all somewhat similar methods. They all have the same basic ferts in them and they all last years and years, and only decline with respect to NH4........NO3 is highly mobile and comes from a good well fed fish load ideally.
The goal is really low input and sustainability.
So if you are the impatient type, most have troubles with this method.
But.........the success rate is pretty high with this method vs others.
Just things grow slower.
No water changes, no real dosing etc.........no testing needed etc.
I decided to test an idea some years ago and did the water column dosing method using non CO2, no water changes and no soil/rich sediment, just plain sand. Works just the same, but you need to dose 2-3x a month once a week or so.
So you can go either way or use both, a but a rich sediment is easier I think if you set it up that way from the start.
You can also take soil and add some water to make "mud". Put mud into ice cube trays, and add these "mud cubes" to re- enrich sections.
Some have used osmocoat in place od soils etc as well.
Main tenants; no water changes, no CO2.........good balanced fish load, algae eaters, pack the tank with easy to grow plants from the start.
Regards,
Tom Barr
