The quest for suitable and strong aqua silicone

CWO4GUNNER said:
I wonder if its just marketing but I had a hard time finding "All Glass Silicone Factory Sealant" as most the 10oz is sold out and on back order at most discount online aquarium stores. That is kind of a good sign right or just marketing LOL? Anyone here think that a big 10oz gun tube will not be enough for a 225 gallon bottom and 1 end panel, plus a complete inside reseal? Found it at Big Al's for $8.50 in the 10oz size in clear. Ant reason why I should use black instead of clear?
http://www.bigalsonline.com/StoreCa...glass+sealant+10&queryType=0&hits=12&offset=0
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I'd definitely get two! If you get almost done with the seal and you run out, without an axillary, you have to strip all of the other off and start again. (speaking from experience) the seal must be continuous, as new silicone doesn't adhere well to cured silicone.
 
kyryah said:
GE II NO, GE I YES :D

GE II contains a anti mold and mildew additive that can prove to be very toxic and deadly. GE I is 100% pure silicone, which is the same dang thing that is sold in the "special" aquarium tubes for 10 times the price. THE EXACT SAME THING, lol. It is all about marketing and getting your money. The tubes that say "not recommended for aquarium use" is more about liability - the silicone works, but the company has no control over how the consumer applies the product and does not want to be held liable for failure. DAP 100% silicone works well also, and actually used to have aquariums listed as one of it's uses - until they realized they could sell "aquarium" silicone in smaller tubes and jack up the price :)

Not only that, but a 10.1 oz tube of GE I applied with a gun is a HECK of a lot easier than using one of those little tubes. Just tape off the edges, run your silicone, spread it in the seam, and peel off the tape before it sets. You have about 5 minutes to work each section before it skins. Easy as pie.

Kristina
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Hi Kistina;) When you go to do your bottom on with the aquarium upside down. Are you going to lay a bead right on top of the 4 panels and then lay the bottom right on top for the sandwich seam and just let the wight of the bottom compress the sandwich seam or will you lay a sand bag on top to mimic the wight of the 4 panels right side up? To me this is a completely separate step from the inside continuous smear seam right? Do you anticipate a silicone gap (1/32) between your bottom panel and your 4 sides, or are you going to squish it flat? Some aquariums like my 125 and 80's have no gap just paper thin sandwich seal but this 225 tank has a 1/32 gap at every panel sandwich seal and I don't know whether I should try and maintain that with the bottom cap or just do a full squish.

Oh buy the way I needed a few things ate Big Al's anyway (heater, power head, impeller, auto battery pump, All Glass silicone) for $60 and free shipping. So I might as well get the All Glass 10oz for $8.50 and eliminate all blame for the main sandwich seal that bonds the panels together and GE-I at Wall mart for like $3 for backup. I know Im getting ahead of myself buying heater and powerhead for a busted tank LOL.
 
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I use GE I Window and Door as it has no fungicides or other additives (other than arsenic to speed drying time - the vinegar smell). Pure silicone does take days to dry rather than minutes. That is very normal. Let the GE I dry for a few days and then flush well. II has the Bio-Seal which is a form of fungicide.
 
Well I ordered 1 10oz gun tube from Big Al's (first time order) and while I was at it got a few things Im going to needed once finished. I know, a little early for a still busted tank. Walmart has their own brand of pure silicone $2 for 10oz, Ill probubly buy that as an extra tube. I just want to make sure the silicone I use sandwiched between the glass panel edges that holds the aquarium together is certified factory stuff. The inside seal seal can always be removed and redone over and over again with different silicone, but the bond strength between those panels is what is scary.
1 All-Glass Silicone Sealant 10 OZ.- Clear 12892 $8.49
1 Rio Plus 1400 Pump/Powerhead UL 15481 $27.99
1 Comp.Impeller Assembly for 802 3005 $16.49
1 Penn Plax Silent Air B11 Battery Operated Air Pump 55302 $14.99
Subtotal: $67.96
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $0.00
Total: $67.96
Charged To PP - PayPal $67.96
 
You'll need more than one tube for what you are doing, i used more than one tube on my 150g and i didn't have to replace any of the glass.
 
Well I just got off the phone with the smallest mom & pop glass cutter in town and its finally ordered 72x24x1/2" tempered for $154, Im so nervous. But I have decided I'm going to make my own bottom wood trim and chuck the plastic half trim. After placing the glass bottom on upside down and letting it cure, Ill place a stained and poly 1" plywood cap with a secured 1.5"x2.5" board boarder well glued and brad nailed to the plywood bottom (not the tank). This cap will be one solid bottom piece and have a 1/8" free play to allow silicone fill covering and securing all panel edges 2.5" from the bottom. Besides protecting the bottom against hits, and acting a reinforcing joint, it will also hold the water and glass if there should be a catastrophic failure of the tempered bottom allowing a controlled leak. It will also look great being stained just like the inset lip on my 125 cabinet.
 
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CWO4GUNNER said:
Hi Kistina;) When you go to do your bottom on with the aquarium upside down. Are you going to lay a bead right on top of the 4 panels and then lay the bottom right on top for the sandwich seam and just let the wight of the bottom compress the sandwich seam or will you lay a sand bag on top to mimic the wight of the 4 panels right side up? To me this is a completely separate step from the inside continuous smear seam right? Do you anticipate a silicone gap (1/32) between your bottom panel and your 4 sides, or are you going to squish it flat? Some aquariums like my 125 and 80's have no gap just paper thin sandwich seal but this 225 tank has a 1/32 gap at every panel sandwich seal and I don't know whether I should try and maintain that with the bottom cap or just do a full squish.
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I was intending I installing the bottom panel with the tank upside down, and let the weight of the glass panel do most of the work. It is HEAVY. The panel that I am replacing is is 48" X 24" so it is probably not anywhere as near as heavy as yours, but I think the weight of the glass alone will do the trick. I think leaving a little space there for silicone would be beneficial.

It will be a separate step from sealing the inside, BUT, if any of the silicone squishes into the aquarium, it will have to be cut out and the seam cleaned up before it can be sealed on the inside. This is why I recommend taping off the areas you don't want to get the silicone on, because it is a LOT easier to pull off a strip of tape than to cut and scrape away silicone. If you tape the bottom edges of the side panel and the inside of the bottom panel just inside the thickness of the glass it will make life a lot easier.

Kristina
 
kyryah said:
I was intending I installing the bottom panel with the tank upside down, and let the weight of the glass panel do most of the work. It is HEAVY. The panel that I am replacing is is 48" X 24" so it is probably not anywhere as near as heavy as yours, but I think the weight of the glass alone will do the trick. I think leaving a little space there for silicone would be beneficial.

It will be a separate step from sealing the inside, BUT, if any of the silicone squishes into the aquarium, it will have to be cut out and the seam cleaned up before it can be sealed on the inside. This is why I recommend taping off the areas you don't want to get the silicone on, because it is a LOT easier to pull off a strip of tape than to cut and scrape away silicone. If you tape the bottom edges of the side panel and the inside of the bottom panel just inside the thickness of the glass it will make life a lot easier.

Kristina
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Woe that's right. I already have to clean off the inside bottom silicone in prep for the cap, having to do it twice would not be fun and I was prepared to do just that until you mentioned this inside tape idea ha-ha. The other scary part is having to turn the aquarium over after curing (2days) with only the new thin seals between the bottom glass the 4 panels. Trying to get it turned over without placing too much pressure on the edge joint, to reinforce the inside will be scary unless your on nice thick moist grass. I suppose using foam or a couple pillow will work just to ease that first edge contact. My bottom panel will weigh 81 pounds. The whole thing weighs 353 pounds. The calculation is for every square foot of 1/8 inch glass you multiply by 1.7Lbs. So my bottom panel is 2FT X 6FT=12SF X 1.7Lbs=20.4Lbs X 4 (1/2"/1/8"=4 )=81 Lbs
 
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