Thinking of a Nano

PumaWard

PumaWard

In loving memory of Meeko
Jul 23, 2003
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About 10 months ago, the "other" side started luring me in. So, now, I want a nano reef, and I need to know what I've got to do to get started. First and foremost: what do I need to know about liverock (curing?), I have patience so I can be cycling for a while, but what do I need to do to cycle? Low price tags are also *very* welcome.

First, it will be small, 5-8g range, absolute maximum 10g, though I prefer smaller (6-7g is top on my list right now). I would like the lighting to be DIY (or other) metal halide, but I need to know how much lighting will be necessary to be able to keep a wide range of corals (I haven't decided on what I am interested in keeping, so suggestions that are appropriate for the tank are more than welcome).

Fish/Invert stocking suggestions are welcome. I don't absolutely have to have fish, but at least one would be nice... my favorite is the firefish, but I don't know if this tank would be appropriate for one.... The only limit I have on fish (so long as they are good for the tank) is that I don't care for clownfish and would rather no fish than clowns.

Filtration: I was thinking of using a HOB, but suggestions are welcome.

I'm sure I'm not asking anywhere near enough questions, so if you think of an answer to a non-exhistant question, I'd be glad to hear it.

Thanks
 
Fish/Invert stocking suggestions are welcome. I don't absolutely have to have fish, but at least one would be nice... my favorite is the firefish, but I don't know if this tank would be appropriate for one.... The only limit I have on fish (so long as they are good for the tank) is that I don't care for clownfish and would rather no fish than clowns.
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Firefish absolutley thrive in nano-reefs. Nano-reefs are perfect for them.
 
After always having one around for years, I am no longer a nano owner, but have a few suggestions.

First, because the tank's so small, you can afford to get some top-quality cured rock. If it's properly cured, you will have very little cycle time. With some luck, you have a good local store you can get it from, since mail order will be impractical without splitting a shipment with someone.

Because of space limitations, stony corals will be a bit difficult. Large-polyped varieties often send out nasty sweeper tentacles that can probably reach across the whole tank. A few of the hardier small-polyped ones, like montipora, will probably be allright, but will run into space problems pretty quickly once they start growing. Even in a 20, I was constantly fragging them to keep them from encrusting everything. They will also go through calcium and carbonate fairly fast.

On that scale, you could probably put together a fantastic display of zoanthids, xenia species (the shorter-polyped ones would look really nice), and the like. Sexy shrimp would be great, as would porcelain crabs. It's a bit small for any fish, although a few neon gobies would probably be OK.

You could probably put together a nice 70 watt halide retrofit for the tank, but I haven't worked with them.

There's a little info.
 
PumaWard said:
I have patience so I can be cycling for a while, but what do I need to do to cycle? Low price tags are also *very* welcome.
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*Start* with a biofilter (I use PVC pipe filled with lava rock powered by whatever powerhead I have) and do a fishless cycle with ammonia (not the rotting shrimp method please!). Seed the tank initially with either a pound of live rock (and that's ALL) or some filter media from an established tank. Once cycled, add live rock to max out the tank (a pound or two per gallon). A few hermit crabs or other crustaceans, or a small fish or two are fine. Do slowly! Also remove the biofilter media slowly, over a month (a handful a week or so). This will insure that your live rock does NOT suffer from a month-long cycle (or even a week-long cycle). I did this and regularly find various species of stars, polyps, sponges, etc... in a 15 gallon nano. I've found at least 4 different specie of stars (brittles and otherwise). I'm sure I would have killed them had I did the normal "live rock cycle".

<<<<<<I would like the lighting to be DIY (or other) metal halide, but I need to know how much lighting will be necessary to be able to keep a wide range of corals (I haven't decided on what I am interested in keeping, so suggestions that are appropriate for the tank are more than welcome).>>>>>>>

Not needed in my opinion, but if you can find a 70-watt metal halide of the proper color (reef tanks look aweful at color temps under 10,000K and every 70 watt I've ever seen was in the 300-4000K range).

I'd use compact flourescents for best results and reduce heat production (which can be a problem in nanos).

<<<<<<my favorite is the firefish>>>>>>>

Firefish would be fine, keep the tank COVERED or it will jump out one day!

<<<<Filtration: I was thinking of using a HOB, but suggestions are welcome.>>>>

Aquaclear 300 is a great nano filter, a bit powerful, but it does have adjustable flow. I think they call it something else, but it's the 300gph model by Hagen. It's what I use.



Again, do a fishless cycle with a cheap biofilter, and remove the biofilter media slowly after the cycle. This method starts out the tank with near zero organic pollutants and is vastly superior to the "fish" or "rotting shrimp" method.

Use GOOD salt, like Reef Crystals, Red Sea, Kent Marine, etc... Skip "Instant Ocean"--- it's a great salt but totally deficient in calcium, which you NEED.

Dose with Kalkwassar for calcium. I use "pickling lime" which is the **same thing** an 1/10th the price at the grocery store. I use the "dribble" method--- I mix up the appropriate amount in a half gallon or so of water, and slowly dribble it into my HOB filter. Done every three or four days, depending on evaporation.
 
Thanks a bunch guys! I really appreciate it.

How do I tell if my LFS's carry good live rock or poor live rock?

Should I just go with a 10g as well?

Thanks!
 
Okay, so I got some rock, it looked like it had a little feather duster on it, it's got some red fuzzy stuff, and worms. It was in a tank with some mushroom covered rock too, so it may have some of that. I also got a 10g (it's empty, the LR is in my 4g so I can put 28w of light over it), Corallife salt mix, and sand.

Next question... do I add ammonia to the tank with the LR or do it in a seperate tank? My main tank is empty if I need to do it in a seperate tank.

Also, I have reconsidered the metal halide and am thinking more along the lines of a power compact. How many WPG should I aim for, or is there some other way of judging light?

Thanks guys!
 
My previous post has in it what I consider the best way to cycle a nano (or big-o) tank, which is a fishless, *rockless* system with a biofilter until the tank cycles, and the biofilter slowly diminished after the tank has cycled and live rock has been added (all at once preferably). This provides the animals on the rock a chance to survive where a "cycle" would have killed hoardes of them.

I'd go with a power compact light. Personally, I think a 65w or 96w light, in the 10,000K range (the lfs will know what you're talking about when you ask for a 10,000K light) or better yet, a 10,000K/actinic (a 50/50 bulb). Looks wonderful!
 
Yes, I love the 50/50 look (it's what I'm going for). I haven't set up the 10g yet (I still need to build the stand :rolleyes: ). Now I just need to save up and get it *sigh.* What kind of corals would the 65w support? 96w?

I've read several places that adding new LR can cause an ammonia/nitrite spike unless cured, and the curing process causes those spikes in a controlled enviroment. So wouldn't the rock undergo it anyway? Just curious :confused:
 
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