Time to get lights

Superjohnny,
I know that Slip posted earlier that they use rebadged Fulhams. I just went in and looked and it has a generic gray label that mentions AH Supply in a footnote (its says its four up to 4 bulbs totalling not more than 110w when wired to AH specs…). I know that when he wrote that I already knew it, but I don't remember where from. It may have been Slip again in an earlier post (when he was explaining all of this stuff to me :D ). My experience has been that he knows what he's talking about.

Sump,
I wrestled with the lighting issue throughout the fall, and I still don't have the whole thing together. This whole bit about the ballast factors and differing efficiencies in nominally similar bulbs is a new wrinkle for me. I found this the other day while trying to research crypts and thought it was pretty on point. You can wrestle with the details indefinitely. The Krib, as usual, has some good stuff archived -- including the difference between lux, lumens and PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation), and a bit on how much is too much.

As for the setup to go with… it all depends on everything else. The canopy, the fish, the plants, the growth rate you're looking for.

One consideration for me was overlighting. My 2x36w is giving me 2.4 wpg. I'd read that most of my fish liked subdued lighting. If I had to do it over I'd go with the 96w. That would be 3.2 wpg for me. I like the light, fish don't seem to care -- they sometimes shade themselves under the plants, but no one spends the day in there. Plants are growing well as is.

On a 55 the 4x55 is going to be high but not crazy. If you're canopy is designed to hold them, maybe the NO is a better route for you. By having a single strip I can open my top without disturbing the lights. I could build the same thing for 2 strips on a 75, but with either 4x55 or 2x96 AH CF you'd have 2 strips, 8" wide and that may or may not interfere with your access just as much as the NO, depending on your design. I could probably get it to work, but its trickier. It would work fine for me with the 4x36 kit over a 55 (2 7" wide reflectors). A similar wattage to what you're talking about with the NO. You may have a different solution canopywise. I like leaving the lights in place as much as possible. Others have expressed a preference for wide coverage. If you don't want the space for something else, conserving it is not really a factor.

The reflectors -- all this talk about watts and ballasts. The reflectors are ridiculously bright and are IMO a significant contributing factor. The AH reflectors are supposed to be especially good (and can be ordered separately). I don't know what other reflectors are like so I can't compare. At least worth considering.

The AH end caps come with rubber sleeves for waterproofing. I've read about corrosion problems, especially if your tank is open. I don't think they invented it: it must be out there somewhere, some sort of weatherproofing. Worth noting.

I'll stay with the AH for the time being. I'm happy with it. I have a canopy design that I'm basically happy with that works with it. It suites my tastes. Slip thinks the bulbs break to easily and he doesn't like the light compared to other types. He tried it and went a different way. I read a thread that basically revolved around how much people didn't like wooden canopies. I like wooden canopies. At some point its just personal preferences,
 
It makes sense that AHsupply has the ballasts made for their kits, if they know what kind of lights the ballast will drive they can better match the ballast with the light.

Which leads right into the ballast factor question...

I found an article that tries to answer what ballast factor is.

Ballast factor is a measure of the actual lumen output for a specific lamp-ballast system relative to the rated lumen output measured with a reference ballast under ANSI test conditions (open air at 25 °C [77 °F]). An ANSI ballast for standard 40-watt F40T12 lamps requires a ballast factor of 0.95; the same ballast has a ballast factor of 0.87 for 34-watt energy saving F40T12 lamps. However, many ballasts are available with either high (conforming to the ANSI specifications) or low ballast factors (70 to 75%). It is important to note that the ballast factor value is not simply a characteristic of the ballast, but of the lamp-ballast system. Ballasts that can operate more than one type of lamp (e.g., the 40-watt F40 ballast can operate either 40-watt F40T12, 34-watt F40T12, or 40-watt F40T10 lamps) will generally have a different ballast factor for each combination (e.g., 95%, <95%, and >95%, respectively).

Ballast factor is not a measure of energy efficiency. Although a lower ballast factor reduces lamp lumen output, it also consumes proportionally less input power. As such, careful selection of a lamp-ballast system with a specific ballast factor allows designers to better minimize energy use by "tuning" the lighting levels in the space. For example, in new construction, high ballast factors are generally best, since fewer luminaires will be required to meet the light level requirements. In retrofit applications or in areas with less critical visual tasks, such as aisles and hallways, lower ballast factor ballasts may be more appropriate.

I'd be willing to bet the kits AHsupply sells has a very good ballast factor since they knew exactly what they needed when they designed the kits.
 
sorry, i havent been around much the past couple days.

anyways- icecap does not advertise that their ballasts are more efficient than fulham ballasts. Likely because their not ;)

Icecap ballasts cost more because they have the ability to dim fluorescent bulbs.

I buy all my bulbs and wiring stuff from either http://www.hellolights.com www.championlighting.com or www.marinedepot.com

They all carry the same or similar stuff, just look for the best prices.
 
Here is a email conversation from me to Fulham...

-cut email header-

Hello,
Does the Fulham Workhorse 5 electronic ballast have the ability to run NO, HO, VHO and CF lights? I am thinking of purchasing this unit to power my aquarium lighting system and want to give myself as many options as
possible.

Thank you very much,
Johnny
their reply:
NO, HO and CF, yes, for VHO you have to use WH7.

Thanks for your inquiry.
Best Regards,
Michelle -cut her last name-
National Sales Manager
-cut her email address-

I wonder why it takes a larger ballast to run a VHO bulb? Anybody have any ideas?
 
Fulham is notorious for underrating their ballasts.

They wont recommend you run 2x110 watt VHO bulbs on a workhorse 7 either.

Their reasoning? Because if one bulb burns out then both turn off.

A workhorse 5 can easily run a 110 watt VHO.
 
Superjohnny,
I don't think they have them made specifically for their kits. My impression was that they just get them w/o the Fulham name on them: I don't think they're custom.

They are not specifically tailored to each kit. For instance, the ballast that came with my kit (2x36 watt) was for 4 lamps up to 110w. There are 2 extra lives from the ballast that I just capped off. I can't really think of how you'd get 4 lamps at a 110 total watts. Slip had said a Workhorse 5 could go up to 128watts. Perfect for a 4x36.

Slip (or anyone else who might know)
I've got the ballast factor idea, and the varying ballast factor according to the lamp being used. How does this effect overdriving?
 
Originally posted by carpguy
Superjohnny,


Slip (or anyone else who might know)
I've got the ballast factor idea, and the varying ballast factor according to the lamp being used. How does this effect overdriving?

A ballast factor greater than 1.0 is overdriving by definition.

Firstly I want to clarify that I am by no means an expert, however I have been doing a lot of reading and in my current office environment I am surrounded by electrical engineers, architects etc.


The "watts per gallon" measurement:
When people make a statement like "3wpg" they are referring to fluorescent lights. Period. You cannot use a measurement like "3wpg" for any other lighting type because it assumes a certain lighting efficiency (i.e. fluorescent). There are several picky reasons why this measurement is unreliable. However, if you don't need to or don't want to research too deeply it is a reasonable measurement you can use.

Picky reasons why this measurement is unreliable:
a) Doesn't measure light but rather measures energy consumed. In the extreme case you could remove the tubes and your ballast would still be consuming some watts.
b) Assumes a given lighting efficiency, probably by default traditional T12's on magnetic ballast.
c) Doesn't take into account tank depth and its effect on light penetration.
d) Assumes decent colour temperature for growing plants.

Reasons a) and b) could be eliminated if we used "Lumens per gallon". Lumen measurements are skewed towards the colour sensitivity of the human eye BUT they are the only decent intensity measurement you will find in the bulb specifications (measured with a 1.0 BF ballast).

Recommendations:
If you're on a budget or like DIY be sure to buy an electronic ballast with a 0.9 or greater BF. If not buy one of the specific systems the other guys mentioned (they are all electronic).

Further picky details you may not want to read about:
- T8's are usually powered by electronic ballasts and produce more lumens per watt than T12's.
- T5's (if you can find them) produce more lumens per watt than T8's.
- The "green ends" on the tubes mean reduced mercury content and has nothing to do with brand or colour temperature.
- I understand the end caps/lamp holders on some specialty fixtures add to the overall length of a "4 foot" tube and may not fit your canopy.

Gumby
 
I found this thread over at reefcentral that talks about overdriving lights. To paraphrase you take all the hookups on a ballast and hook it up to one light. So if a ballast is capable of driving 4 lights you take the 4 yellow wires and connect them to one side, the 4 red wires go to the other side. So you basically feed all the power of the ballast to 1 light.

The Workhorse5 puts out 120w. If I use it to overdrive a 75w 24" VHO Coralife light... tell me I'm not going to burn down my house please. :D
 
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