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Water Changes?

Discussion in 'Planted Aquariums' started by tackful, Oct 28, 2016.

  1. Rbishop

    Rbishop ...and over the edge.
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    I lean towards the increased activity due to slight temp variations, especially if cooler and the currents stirring up stuff and the fish are in somewhat of a feeding mode. Their activity calms down quick quickly, longer than an osmotic adjustment could even be made to have it be pH shock.
     
    FreshyFresh likes this.
  2. napalmlieu

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    You should only take 25- to 50% of water out, and really, you should check the PH of your tap water.
     
  3. FreshyFresh

    FreshyFresh Global Moderator
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    Why is that? Some bio loads require much more water volume than that with no ill effects.
     
  4. qwe123

    qwe123 AC Members

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    I will be doing a long term experiment with a few partners on the effects on water quality in a low tech, planted system with potting soil. Other than nitrogen, TDS, GH, and KH, is there anything else you think we should keep an eye on?
     
  5. p0tluck

    p0tluck AC Members

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    could someone PLEASE for the love of fish, explain to me if i am doing this the way i am supposed to , and why my nitrates are still 60 ppm (after 2 years ), ii am frankly getting contradicting stories from everyone except my LFS whom said stop worrying about nitrates as well as a few other people.

    i have 15 fish total in a 55 gallon, i am running 14.5 turnover rate filtration , thick chunky gravel ii am working on changing to fiiner crushed
    ammonia is always 0
    nitrite is always 0
    ph is always 7.5
    nitrates are always 60-70
    My water source has <5ppm nitrate

    on monday i vacuum 33% of my gravel which i vac very thoroughly which drains approx 15% of my water , i then lightly vac the rest of the gravel which removes another 10 - 15% of the water equaling about 25-30% water (removed) .

    i do this same exact process on thursday

    so adding them up i do 66% of my gravel bed and remove and re add approx 60% reconditioned water every week

    how am i still at 60ppm nitrate everytime i test.
     
  6. tackful

    tackful AC Members

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    Have you actually tested the tap water yourself, or are you relying on published data? If the later, then it is possible that you have a bad test kit(s). My tank once tested 60-80 ppm N with an expired kit, 0 with a new one.
     
  7. p0tluck

    p0tluck AC Members

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    i am testing the tap water, we have a bran new waterplant where i live , like water costs so much money its rediculous , its sub 5 ppm, i know its not zero cause when i had it checked at the lfs it was the same reading as mine well it read a little less than mine
     
  8. p0tluck

    p0tluck AC Members

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    my tank has been established for 2+ years

    tank3.jpg
     
  9. napalmlieu

    napalmlieu AC Members

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    It depends on the amount of the bio-load, filter, and tank size. (that is, according to my belief) For my 10 gallon, i mostly take out 15 to 30%. For larger tanks, i recommend doing 25 to 50%.
    To answer your question, i'll explain, with facts.

    • Much improved growth rates are reported where very frequent water changes have been carried out.
    • You clean your entire tank, removing algae, and food that has been hidden in your fake or real plants.
     
  10. p0tluck

    p0tluck AC Members

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    so i am taking out 25-30 % twice a week , when you say 25-30 % you mean water right because from everything i read your gravel holds everything and your filter not the actual water, this is where i think some things have to be explained better, i do remove 25-30% water twice a week so 50-60% weekly, but no one talks about how much gravel vacuuming should be done, i do 66% weekly to leave the other 33% alone so i dont crash my bio bed. some people never vacuum their gravel and only do straight water change i dont get it, 25-30% does that include vacuuming the gravel and if so how much gravel? am i doing to much gravel at 66% weekly?
    tto much water at 50-60% weekly?
     

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