Water Changes

under gravel filters basically force water thought the gravel, the bacteria actually colonize IN the gravel. the problem i find with them though is that all the gunk gets sucked into the gravel and it can get really gross unless you gravel vac regularly.
 
I have an Undergravel Filter that has been reversed. This is also know as a RUGF and it works much better then a normal UGF. What is needed is a powerhead that pushes water through the intake tubes and force the water up through the rock vs sucking the water down into the rocks. This does not hurt the bacteria and works well with a HOB as it pushes the gunk into the water and the HOB filters it out. The one thing bad that I don't like is the water is not crystal clear but the water itself is alot cleaner and when I do gravel vacums there is almost nothing to clean up.
 
I use UGF and RUGF. I do not have live plants in those tanks.
 
"The more I read through the posts on this site the more confusing I think it gets."

I hear ya.

From what I have gathered the best way to determine when to water change is by testing Nitrate level approx every 5 days with a cycled tank. More frequently (again as determined by Nitrate level) in a cycling tank or if there are other water quality problems or symptoms.

As for quantity to change in a fully cycled tank, this has to be be determined over a period of weeks by keeping a log of percentage changed and checking Nitrate level the next day, this reading will determine if more needs to be changed weekly.
Same day Nitrate test wouldnt be an accurate test since it'll take some time for the fresh water to mix with the old.

I'm learning but this is my best understanding so far.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong and why I'm wrong please.
 
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dadof3 said:
"The more I read through the posts on this site the more confusing I think it gets."

I hear ya.

From what I have gathered the best way to determine when to water change is by testing Nitrate level approx every 5 days with a cycled tank. More frequently (again as determined by Nitrate level) in a cycling tank or if there are other water quality problems or symptoms.

As for quantity to change in a fully cycled tank, this has to be be determined over a period of weeks by keeping a log of percentage changed and checking Nitrate level the next day, this reading will determine if more needs to be changed weekly.
Same day Nitrate test wouldnt be an accurate test since it'll take some time for the fresh water to mix with the old.

I'm learning but this is my best understanding so far.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong and why I'm wrong please.
Click to expand...

Ya, that sounds like it has *some* reasoning behind it, but you need to remove more than nitrate from the water. There is a whole whack of dissloved orcanic compounds in the water that you need to do water changes to get rid of, and only water changes will do that.

But, really, this is what you should do:

a minumum of 25% water a week, more is better, but only needs to be done if you feel like doing it, as 25% changes are aqequete for the properly stocked tank. It's that simple.
 
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I love hearing differences of opinion. I think im safe with my usual 30% a week schedual... Although the reason for this post was for a month and a half slack period on my tank... my nitrates were at about 60ppm. My ph never changes from 7.0. Ammonia was 0ppm. Nitrite at 0ppm... After this last 50% change i dropped my Nitrates to about 15ppm and all others remained. What is an ideal nitrate level?
 
Ohh ok... I was thought I was still kinda off the charts but under 20ppm is good? Any1 else agree or disagree? What perameters of the water quality are the most important? Also... after that last 50% change My parrots are kinda just layin on bottom... They are still swimming strong when need be but its almost like there bein lazy or something... They are just acting weird. I used to only check Ph and Ammonia but recently bought a master kit of ph,Nitrate,Nitrite,Ammonia and a high range ph... Do I need anything else?
 
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