A 20 gallon long has more surface area on top, therefore allowing more gas exchange. The water will have more oxygen in it than a 20 gallon high, and can support more fish.
A 20 gallon long has more surface area on top, therefore allowing more gas exchange. The water will have more oxygen in it than a 20 gallon high, and can support more fish.
MOST hobbyists have a way of airating their water anyway be means of air pumps, or filters
I guarentee my 20H has more oxygen than most normally filtered 20L tanks..
The size difference comes more into play with the type of fish, as some swim around more, some swim up more.
your method would be 100% correct in a world with standing water in the tanks that doesnt move or get airrated in any way.... but in most cases you get MOST of your oxygen where the flow of your filter breaks the waters surface, no matter what the size of the tank
Out of all my 5 tanks ranging from 1g (temprary housing for guppy fry) to 55g, the 55g is by far the easiest to keep stable. You may want to keep one of the smaller tanks handy for use as a quarantine tank You don't need to keep it set up all the time, since you said you are not up to the upkeep of more than one tank. Just keep a nylon stocking filled with some gravel in your big tank and whenever you need a seeding of beneficial bacteria for a quick qt tank, you are all set. Just pull out the qt tank, transfer the bag of gravel and you are set.
MOST hobbyists have a way of airating their water anyway be means of air pumps, or filters
I guarentee my 20H has more oxygen than most normally filtered 20L tanks..
The size difference comes more into play with the type of fish, as some swim around more, some swim up more.
your method would be 100% correct in a world with standing water in the tanks that doesnt move or get airrated in any way.... but in most cases you get MOST of your oxygen where the flow of your filter breaks the waters surface, no matter what the size of the tank
How significant the surface area of the tank is as far as oxygen level, I don't know. But it makes sense to say that the amount of water that is exposed to the air is a variable in how much oxygen the water has. If you've got a power filter/powerhead/airstone, then I guess it would make up for the decreased surface area. In any case, I will dare to say that if you compare a 20 gallon long with a 20 gallon high, with both having the exact same type of aeration, the 20 gallon long will still have more oxygen.
How significant the surface area of the tank is as far as oxygen level, I don't know. But it makes sense to say that the amount of water that is exposed to the air is a variable in how much oxygen the water has. If you've got a power filter/powerhead/airstone, then I guess it would make up for the decreased surface area. In any case, I will dare to say that if you compare a 20 gallon long with a 20 gallon high, with both having the exact same type of aeration, the 20 gallon long will still have more oxygen.
true if you were to take two identical setups.. accept a 20h and a 20l the long would have a bit more oxygen.. you are correct in that thinking...
but my point is that it isnt substantial enough to make a big enough difference to rule out a 20H... 20H is very beneficial for many species. 20L are more for breeder tanks and heavily planted tanks.... and can possibly house a couple extra small fish simply due to the larger footprint
all-in-all I prefer the Highs over the Longs because they tend to look proportionate, and I like having a bit deeper water
