Worried that your stand won't hold up?

Pharaoh

epitome of obsession
Apr 2, 2009
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Bobby
I thought this might be an interesing read for people over here on AC. I copied this from my original posting on MFK, but feel free to discus anything in this thread as well.

Original discussion thread found here.

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I was doing a little number crunching on stand design and interesting topic came up. Exactly how much weight will a 2x4 stand hold?

I know most of us DIY people like to build things so that they could hold four tanks, but I thought it would be nice to actually put down some real numbers and see what we come up with.

Wood selection:

Now, to set the basis for this, you would have to make an assumption about the type of wood that most persons' 2x4 would be made from. After a little research, you will soon find that the most common form of wood that is used for construction lumber is pine. From there, I pulled a little data regarding the tensile strength of various woods. (Seen here)

For this discussion, I decided to go with the norm, pine. I also chose to use the weakest pine available, which would be eastern white pine. Now, eastern white pine, which will further be referred to as just pine, has a perpendicular compression rate of 440 psi. This is the weight that is placed upon the wood when it is used for vertical support of an aquarium stand. The parallel compression strength is much higher, so there won't be a need to address it in this analysis as it will not be the weak link in the chain.

The design behind the 2x4 stand:

There is one common design for an aquarium stand that is commonly used. I have attached the drawing below. In my opinion, this stand has a couple extra 2x4s in the design, but as stated before, we DIY people like to overbuild things. I will say however, that the green vertical 2x4s are not needed. The purple 2x4s will be more than adequate to support your tank. I recommend saving yourself a couple bucks and removing these from the design.

As you can see by the drawing, the vertical 2x4s support the weight of the tank as it is distributed across the frame. These vertical 2x4s (colored purple) will be the load bearing parts of the stand. They are also the weakest link in the design. In saying this, these vertical supports will be addressed in relation to the ability of a stand to hold weight.

In the design pictured below, there are eight vertical 2x4s. Depending on your stand, you may have more or less in relation to the size and length of your tank. But for those instances, we can simply change a few numbers to evaluate your stand individually.

Credit where credit is due: Pic below came from reefcentral where the design is explained in detail.

Facts for the discussion:

-The perpendicular compression rate of a 2x4 -- 440 psi
-The rough end measurements of a 2x4 -- 1.5" x 3.5"
-Number of 2x4 in the pictured stand -- 8

The Math behind the discussion:

First, we take the end measurements of the 2x4 and figure the contact area. This is

1.5 * 3.5 = 5.25

This gives us 5.25 square inches of contact are per 2x4.

Second, we figure the total area that will be in contact. Remember that we have eight 2x4s supporting the frame of the tank. So, we multiply the number of 2x4s by the end area of a single 2x4.

8 * 5.25 = 42.

We have 42 square inches of contact area.

Third, we bring in the compression rate of the 2x4s in relation to the number of square inches of contact area.

42 * 440 = 18,480.

This tells us that the stand in question will support 18,480lbs, assuming all other factors remain constant.

The verdict:

So our final answer comes to 18,490lbs. As we all know, that is a lot of weight. This would be the equivalent of about 2,200 gallons of water. Right about this time I am going to throw in my disclaimer. I do not recommend pushing the load capacity of a 2x4 to its limit, but it is important to know where you stand in regard to structural support. I personally feel more comfortable using a 1/4 factor when calculating. The would reduce the load capacity to 25% of the rated value. This is what some would refer to as a bit of a safety factor when designing your stand. Let's see where that puts us in regard to our stand by figuring one of two ways;

42 * (440/4) = 4,620

18,480 / 4 = 4,620

I think this is a reasonable number that will keep us far inside the safety limits of a 2x4. In any case, you would be hard pressed to design an aquarium that would actually reach this stress limit. I would venture to say that is would have to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 48 x 48 x 48. Now, lets keep in mind that a tank of this size would need additional vertical supports in order to support the horizontal frame, thus increasing the load capacity.


***I just typed this on a whim, so if you have questions or would like to continue the discussion, please feel free to post away!***

148629DIY_Stand_Template.jpg
 
Subscribing to this thread so I don't loose it.

I'm supposed to know how to calculate the capacity of a frame like this, but I've been studying structural dynamics for the last 15 hours, so I'm a little burnt out. :hitting:
 
No offense intended but there are a couple of serious errors with this thread I am sorry to say.

1. What you call the "weakest link" is actually the strongest part of the stand. The vertical supports are being compressed parallel to the grain not perpendicular. The compression strength is 4800 psi not 440. The horizontal frame is being compressed perpendicular to the grain. If the weight was all on the center of the horizontal frame you would not want to exceed 440 psi. Fortunately aquariums have their weight distributed evenly across the frame or on the corners so that shouldn't be an issue. However the longer of the span you have the more weight is put on the center and the more easily it can break.
A good example is snapping a pencil. If you take a long pencil and snap it in half it breaks pretty easily, if you take that half of a pencil and snap it again it snaps but with much more force required. If you take the remaining short quarter piece and try and snap it you can't.

2. The green boards (or something like them) are necessary as they prevent the stand from folding. While the stand has an excessive amount of support from a force load vertically, a lateral force (pushing the stand from side to side) can cause the connectors (screws, nails, glue, etc...), if they are all coming from a direction parallel to the vertical supports, to loosen and the stand can fold over. This is because all the connecting hardware between the vertical support and the horizontal frame is in the same vector (Y axis). Add in the green boards with screws coming from the back to the front and and the connecting hardware is now in a different vector (X), 90 degrees from the other hardware and this keeps the stand from folding. The boards don't have to be there to provide any vertical support but they are a convenient way to add hardware from a different vector. There are other options to doing this besides boards as well. The most common of these being metal plates that overlap the seam between the vertical supports and horizontal frame and use 3-5 screws on each side to hold the seam together.

What boards are definitely not necessary are the purple boards facing the front and back of the stand. They are not necessary for vertical support and do not add any additional vectors of support not provided by the purple boards on the side and the green boards. Although they would make the stand look better aesthetically.

Personally I prefer dado cutting the vertical supports so they are under and around the horizontal frames. This way the screws that come in from the side provide the X axis connection and there is no need for any Y axis connection.

Andy
 
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I forgot to add that the combined compression vertical support strength of this stand is calculated by measuring the square inches from the narrowest dimension that can make a perfect square. (1.5" in the case of a 2x4). This is because the failure will happen in the vector of the narrowest dimension. A good example of this is if you take a ruler and hold it so the flat part is facing up and then bend it up and down. It bends very easily. Now hold it so the edge is facing up and try to bend it. You probably can't.
In the case of our model stand the verticals have a combined support square inches (1.5" x 1.5") x 8 = 18 square inches and can support a combined weight of 86,400 lbs or 21,600 lbs per leg. Of course this is only realistic if the stand is only about a foot or so tall.

Now here is where it gets complicated. The longer the legs are the more they are going to bow from the weight applied. If the legs are really long or there is a lot of weight they can bow out in the direction facing the narrowest dimension and eventually shear. This is where the second purple leg facing the front and back of the stand becomes important. This leg, if connected to the legs on the side prevents that leg from bowing by essentially adding the strength of it's longest dimension to the narrowest dimension of the side leg. Now you essentially have a leg with a footprint of 3.5" x 3.5" which will make it considerably stronger than before with little risk of bowing from even extreme weights placed on it.
Andy
 
Good stuff everyone underscoring the strength benefits of all wood construction whether build by perimeter board or stud frame construction, you cant go wrong with all natural cellulose solid wood construction. Bar being burned or disassemble it will be here long after we are gone.

What I wish is that someone would thread the short term and long term strength and sustainability characteristics of dimensional fiber board (press-molded sawdust & glue). I exclude plywood becasue of its special characteristics to be both strong and resist stress cracking. In a nutshell I believe a saw-dust composite aquarium stand is nothing more then two ends with the tank supporting most of its own weight in the middle over time. Life expectancy of saw-dust fiberboard under normal ware-tear use and exposure to normal spills and humidity, structurally about 2 years, physically about 5 years maybe.
 
OMG too much for my little peanut brain to comprehend. I suck at math! Thank God for people like all of you to figure this out for the "less mathematically inclined". Whenever you reach a verdict, though, I need a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium. If you could pleeeease translate it into peanut brain english,(type of wood, measurements, and basic, and I mean BASIC instructions, i.e. saw here, screw there, HAHAHA, I would looove to see the end results! WAYYY more complicated than "Put the cinderblock under the plywood"!lol
 
While I agree that a wooden frame can support MUCH more weight than most people think, it's not just the static downward force that you need to worry about.

When you think about how the stand could potentially fail, it will never be simply squashed flat, unless you run over with a bulldozer or something. It will fail by either folding over or the uprights being deformed so they no longer support the full downward force.

Watch this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjOvI0TOx98

OK that's a bit extreme, but the shelves were holding the static load of all those cases of vodka just fine, until someone deformed one support, and then the sideways force bought it all down like a house of cards. A relatively small earthquake can have the same effect. A few ornaments bouncing off the shelf is a nuisance, a 300 gal fish tank collapsing becomes a disaster. We recently had a mag 7.1 near hear and a lot of warehouse storage made like that video clip.
Main disaster was the big beer warehouse. :eek3:

What can you do about that? Bracing!!!!

What your drawing doesn't show is the bracing the stand should have to prevent it folding up. That could be diagonal braces, steel corner pieces or probably the simplest, plywood. Generally a stand is clad in something. Make that some structural plywood and you have a something that's both going handle the static weight AND any sideways stress as well.

Ian
 
You could take it one step further and attach your stand to the wall by screwing it to the wall studs in the same way permanent pieces of furniture, bookcases and cabinets are.
 
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