Dividing up a sump

[Reefscape]

I have a 36" long tank now for my sump..Can some-one give me some pointers on how is best to divide up in inlet, fuge and return. I dont need a great lot of room for the inlet part as my skimmer is a hang on the back type..Just not sure how big to make the 3 sections for this..

Thanks in advance for any advice

Niko

[Reefscape]

I have decided to split up my 36 long sump as thus...

Area 1 - Inlet - 8"
Area 2 - Fuge - 14"
Area 3 - Return - 14"

Can anybody help me, or tell me how to work out the height needed of the baffles in the sump?

Niko

[Cheech]

Hi Atnixon,

I'll check the dimensions of mine, and answer you back in a little bit. How high is the tank you have now/ ?

[Reefscape]

Hiya Cheech..

Sump tank dimentions are 36" long, 12" Wide and 15" high..

Thanks a lot matey

niko

[fsn77]

The height of the baffles depends on the depth of the water you want in each chamber. If you'll be putting a deep sand bed in the refugium chamber, you'll want to be sure to account for the sand bed depth (4 - 5") along with an appropriate water depth for good macro growth. Also, when planning on the normal operating water level in the sump, remember that a certain amount of water "back fills" the sump during a power outage or when the return pump is turned off (the plumbing empties back into the sump).

In our sump, which has just 2 chambers (inlet/skimmer area and return -- refugium is a separate tank), I have it set up so that there's never < 10" of water in the inlet area so the skimmer never has an opportunity to run dry. I spaced the baffles 2" apart (and the "under" baffle is 2" off the bottom) to allow for some LR rubble to be placed between them (to stop any stray microbubbles from the skimmer that happen to make it through / provide some extra bio-filtration) and to give me a quick and easy place to toss a media bag of carbon or what-not when I need to use it.

[rbell219]

I have no experience with Refugiums, but why not make the fuge area as large as possible?
As long as it wouldn't cause any problems, I'd make the return and the intake area just big enough to hold my plumbing, protein skimmer, and pumps. This allows for more sand bed, more macro algae, more critters. Like I said---unless there is a guide line to the size of a refugium.

[Reefscape]

The main reason i dont want a small return area is because the return is going to be the place with the most evapouration, so it needs to be big enough keeping that in mind..I am thinking 12" for the return, 14" for fuge and 8 for the inlet...Just waiting on cheech's measurements now really..

Thanks for everyone's input so far, it has made a big difference to this project for me

Niko

[Cheech]

atnixon, you're absolutely right on the evaporation....



That's the only thing that bugs me about my setup.

unless you eventually hook up a valve that will add water to your return chamber and always keep the water level art check, it does become a hassle.

Here's how my sump is setup (except mine is 16" high, this sketch is adjusted to 15")... I'm happy with it. Plexi is 3/16" thick . ..


Let me know if you need a little more info.

Good luck! :)

[Reefscape]

Cheech, your a star, thanks ever so much for coming back to me matey..You've been a great help..

Will hopefully start to post pictures of the project as soon as i get it underway on my christmas break...

Niko

[Reefscape]

Cheech..One thing on your design..If you fuge was made at 14 and the return at 12, instead of 9, do you think your evap would of been a lot less?

Niko

[BadRoma1]

i don't want to confuse you, but i have the same structure in mine, but i will redo it soon, because i hate high borders. constantly have to keep level of water in check

[Cheech]

Cheech..One thing on your design..If you fuge was made at 14 and the return at 12, instead of 9, do you think your evap would of been a lot less?

Niko
I'm guessing it would help.. not sure by how much though . The tank I have now is a 180, and I have to fill the retun daily... If I go 2 days without filling it, I'm afraid the pump will take in too much air and might fry. That's why I'll be adding an RO unit and fill the fuge when needed...


hey, one thing I noticed on your other thread. Your return is my intake.

My setup intake is on the left, and the return is on the right side of the sump.

Any particular reason for setting it up that way? ?

I'd take some pics of my sump, but I don't have a camera on me. I'll do so tomorrow morning and upload it, to show you my setup...

[Cheech]

alright. This is pretty much my layout (except mine is deeper. This drawing is scaled at 12" deep which reflects your setup)

Hopefully it'll help, if you decide to go with this kind of setup .

[Reefscape]

Thanks alot cheech...nice and easy to understand drawings mate..

Will be looking at getting the sump layout closed off this weekend and get the glass ordered..

Thanks for the help

Niko

[jojo22]

Best baffels ever made!!! http://www.captivereefing.com/showthread.php?t=3282

[Reefscape]

absolutly awsome...i gotta get meself some of that !!!!!

and a quick search in google shows loads of company's that sell it...hmmmmmmmm...pause for thought...i can feel my credit card slipping out of my wallet as we speak...

Niko

[jojo22]

Glad I could be of some help! If I get to posting to many links to that site please let me know. It is just really easy for me to find stuff there since that is where I spend most of my time as I am a supervisor for them. If any of you guys would like to join please mark me as a referal and remember I have the same screen name there if you need to get ahold of me!!

[Reefscape]

Ok, just a little update really...

Just thought i would post the finished design of my sump in the hope that somebody may just find it usefull to either copy or adapt to their own fish tank..

Any feedback on final drawing would be most appreciated indeed.

I just want to say thanks to everybody who has given their input and suggestions / critism..

P.S sorry if the image comes out massive, but i did it on A3

Niko

[Reefscape]

Bump?

[In2deep]

Niko,
In the setup you show here, where is your skimmer located?
Is the water depth the same all the way across the sump or are different areas different depths?

I am looking to make keep my skimmer in a separate section and have the water depth consistent (no impact from evaporation). How does everyone do this?

[Reefscape]

In2Deep....My skimmer is located in the inlet part of the sump. There are two water levels in the sump, the inlet area is a higher water level than that of the fuge and return ( fuge and return are of the same water height ). The main reason the inlet has a higher water level is to ensure that i keep a good ammount of water down there taking into account that i needed to compensate the water displacement of the skimmer..

The water levels make no difference to what evap your going to get. the only way you can minimise any evap is not to store equipment in there. The main evap comes from having the return pump in the sump, skimmers etc etc in the sump...

Hope this helps

Niko

[In2deep]

Thank you for the response.

I am trying to create a very stable area in my sump so that the skimmer always has the same water level regardless of evap. Is this possible?

[Reefscape]

what type of skimmer is it mate? Answer would be yes, store the skimmer in the inlet area of the sump...

Niko

[In2deep]

It is a Coralife for a 75 gal. I am running it on a 40 gal breeder with about 10 in the sump.

[Reefscape]

am i right in thinking this can either be hang on mounted or sump installed? if i am correct, then yes, it would be fine in the inlet area of the sump..

Niko

[GatorDrew]

Thank you so much for the sketch! That helps me out tremendously!

Just curious, I'm guessing you could put some sort of "platform" underneath the protein skimmer if it needs to be raised, etc.

Also, I'm guessing that the baffles between the fuge and return is a bubble trap?

[Reefscape]

Correct on both accounts buddy.....

Niko

[GatorDrew]

Alright, I modified it a bit as I need to make it about 30". This is the opening for the stand. Obviously, there is more room beneath the tank... but if it can't get past the doors, what good would it be? LOL.

I basically shortened the fuge area. I still think it's big enough.

Thoughts?

[jojo22]

Get rid of the bio-balls they will only lead to trouble. Also puting media in the intake may not be such a great idea, media is generally a passive item meaning that water should flow around it and not be forced thru which is what is going to happen in your intake section.

Also you don't want your skimmer in the return section, first of all because there will be less for it to skimm out of the water as your fuge will suck up a lot of the nutrients, second of all the higher the nutrients the more the macros will grow and they will be hard to manage. I would also move your heater, your water level in the return section will change the most due to evaporation, leaving part of your heater exposed and greatly shortining it's useable life-span.

You could also lenghten all your baffels to have more water volume, just drill a hole in your return tube right below the water line so that it breaks syphon if the power goes out.

Lastly the amount of space under your center baffel should be one inch not a half.

Any questions let us know!!

Joe

[Reefscape]

Yep, i certainly agree will all of JoJo's comments there...

Niko

[GatorDrew]

Ok... so:

Inlet: LR Rubble

Fuge area: heater

Where should the skimmer go?

Jojo - what do you think about this design in general? I don't have dimensions, but if I replace the bioballs with LR rubble it looks to be pretty good. I just still don't understand where I can put the skimmer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300096878120&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1#ebayphotohosting


Sorry for all the questions. However, I really appreciate your help!

[jojo22]

The sump you linked is for a freshwater set up, it is really a wet dry.

That being said if you move the baffels around on the diagram you posted it will work great. I would put the skimmer in the intake section, this will be better because most of you rDOC's will be in the top two inches of water, they will get sucked down the overflow and be at the highest concentration in the intake, your fuge will help with what the skimmer does not catch.

Please do some reading at www.melevsreef.com and look into puting your return in the middle. I makes your fuge much more effecent. you would need 2 more baffels but I think it would help you a lot.

there is no need for LR in the intake put it in the fuge and just a little in the return if you like.

[GatorDrew]

So this sump would be the most ideal/best.
http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/f/sump_f.html

The plumbing looks pretty daunting. I'm definitely no handy man, but could be fun.

I could just go to a place that cuts glass and he could do it entirely for me. I would then just have to seal it up... doesn't sound hard at all.

The only question... where in the world do I get the top pieces or bulkhead? Basically, you know, how do I connect my tank's built in overflow to the sump?

Also, ignore the ratios, etc. Just the idea & dimensions. If I can find it, I'd get a 37 gallon tank: http://www.anapsid.org/resources/tanksize.html

By the way, I don't know about all the piping (like what's safe to connect the PVC together?) so I may just use tubing...

[jojo22]

I personaly would add a baffel that pushes the water under after the fuge just to avoid any micro bubbles. But this plan looks much better than the last one, like 1000% better!!!!

[GatorDrew]

Awesome! I'm getting the hang of it.

I think I understand what you mean. Check out the attached!

By the way... 1" between each baffle.

[jojo22]

That looks good. You could still add 3 inches to the hight of the baffels inbetween the intake and return, and the last baffel from fuge to return just to get more water volume if you wanted, I would why waste space that could be filled with water.

If you do that don't forget to raise the center baffel from fuge to return.

Because that may not sound right make all the baffels that touch the bottom of the tank 11 inches high!!!

[GatorDrew]

Awesome man. Didn't really understand what was being expressed until that last sentence... thanks!

I'm pumped up!!!! Now to finish the drawings and make it more accurate.

One question... where would I place media if I need to? Like Chemipure, etc?

[jojo22]

I personally keep an aquaclear 30 on the side of my sump and a suply of filter socks. If I need any media it goes in a sock and in the HOB filter. this gives me greater control of the flow around the media and makes easy acess to rinse or change it as needed.

[GatorDrew]

That makes a lot of sense.

I was thinking about adding a "platform" between one of the baffles so I could lay media on.

Your idea > my idea :)

Thanks jojo! I really appreciate your help on this!

[jojo22]

No problem bud, that is why I am here!!

[GatorDrew]

Last question... where would you put the AquaClear? Inlet would make sense to me.

Also, it would make sense to me that the only area that would have evaporation would be the return pump area. Right?

[jojo22]

Inlet or return, if in the return you will more than likely have micro bubbles but if you need filter media micrto bubbles should be last on the list of worries

[GatorDrew]

Ok... last question. Alright, maybe not last... I'm just trying to wrap it up and get all the items lined up.

Lighting. Would I be looking to get this:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=9871&N=2004+113345


CD-14064 Marine 24" $50.99

I'd also get the mounting legs (I assume):

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=13732

As for the filter media. You know, I really just like chemical filtration sometimes. It's something that just allows me to rest at night. :)

[jojo22]

To light the tank or the sump, if the sump that would ROCK, for the tank it's not enough!!

[GatorDrew]

Oh- of course. I have a those same lights for my tank... different size of course. It spans the entire tank.

I'm looking at that just for the sump/fuge.

[number1sixerfan]

Hate to intrude, but I have a question about sumps. They seem so intimidating lol. Anyways, what happens when the power goes out? I have heard people say that it can overflow. How does this happen and how can you prevent it?

[jojo22]

Well if you don't run your sump at a full capacity and you drill a small hole in the return line just below the water level you will never have to worry.

[GatorDrew]

Well if you don't run your sump at a full capacity and you drill a small hole in the return line just below the water level you will never have to worry.
So... drill a hole in the pipe that goes from the pump in the middle section to the tank?

[jojo22]

Drill a small hole in the pipe that goes from your return pump into the tank, be sure you drill it just below the water level in the main tank.

[number1sixerfan]

I don't understand. Sorry, I am very, very slow when it comes to things like this.

[jojo22]

where the pipe enters your tank (comes over the top rim) it will go back down and into the water in the display tank, drill a hole just below the water line.

[GatorDrew]

Alright, so my new LFS offers a service to build a sump, etc.

They suggest either a 20G long or 37G.

20G = 30 x 13 x 13 (Inches LxDxH) COST: $34.99
37G = 30 x 13 x 23 (Inches LxDxH) COST: $69.99

Light Kit (basically shop light with PC & reflectors): $25

Labor to build divisions, etc: $115

Them coming over to install, make sure it doesn't flood, etc: $60

LR Rubble... they think about 15 lbs would be a good start. They charge $4.99 for rubble. They were up front and said they don't have "rubble" so they'd have to take their LR and just crush it. My old fish store offered 5lbs @ $20.

Total Cost (if I go through new LFS): $75

Hand full of macro algae: $5

Bag of Live Sand: $30

Total Cost with 20G Long: $345

Total Cost with 37G: $380

Doesn't seem too bad, IMO. The guy making it showed me a lot of his work. Takes pictures of his stuff.

What are your thoughts? If I'm going to throw down $400 should it be on this or should I first get an RO/DI unit? I'm thinking this... as I have no problem paying $0.30/gallon.

By the way... I would plan on going with the 37G. It's a bit more money but it's about 10" taller!

[jojo22]

I would build your own. That is a rip off. You could built a sweet sump for under $100!!

[GatorDrew]

Well, the tank alone is $70.

Here's my problem... I don't have ANY tools to do any of this work.

No matter who builds it, these costs will remain... live rock, sand, macro and light kit.

The only "extra" I'm paying for is their labor @ $115.

If I were to install it, the total cost would be $320. Perhaps I can get them to make it $275 overall since I'm buying a lot of products, etc there.

I appreciate the input! I'll consider it overall... it's definitely a lot of money. However, I think it would really be beneficial for the tank.

[jojo22]

his would help if you diy, most plastic shops will cut the acrylic you buy to your specs for 5 or 10 bux!! So your dividers could be a lot cheaper than 115 and there would be no tools required. Plus a sump is cake to install so save that $60!! I am 99.99% sure your baffels won't even cost $50 so you would already be saveing 125 dollars!!!!

[GatorDrew]

Ok. I'm getting a bit more courageous :) You make it sound so easy... LOL

Here's the thing. I still don't know how I make it so my overflow pipes connect to the tank.

I really don't want to drill into the tank. Is there a way I can make it so it comes from the top?

Also - I guess I just get small strips of glass to put around the LR rubble area... so I could have an egg create rest on top of the strips. Then, the LR rubble would rest on the egg create.

[jojo22]

http://www.captivereefing.com/showthread.php?t=4521

You will find my very basic sump in that thread. 6 dividers 3 sections and it's done.

and yes You can diy a weir overflow, buy an overfow or drill. For water return I think a manifold is the way to go, I will be putting them on my tanks as time allows!!

[GatorDrew]

I'll figure it out.

Meanwhile, this is my final draft... I think. :)

I know it's not in proportion, but you get the idea.

Also, the only area that will have evaporation will be the return pump area... right? So, I can have a float valve there if I get that RO/DI unit and auto top off.

[GatorDrew]

Last question... about the area where my protein skimmer is.

My protein skimmer is very similar to this one: http://www.theaquariumonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=361

What if the water level in that area is HIGHER than where the water exits the protein skimmer? Does it not matter? Should I find some way to raise the skimmer up?

[jojo22]

The only thing I would change is get rid of the pump to suply the fuge, just put a "T" fitting in the return line add a ball valve (or better yet a gate valve) and run that to the fuge.

[jojo22]

Last question... about the area where my protein skimmer is.

My protein skimmer is very similar to this one: http://www.theaquariumonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=361

What if the water level in that area is HIGHER than where the water exits the protein skimmer? Does it not matter? Should I find some way to raise the skimmer up?



just raise it up with a diy eggcrate stand!!

[GatorDrew]

The only thing I would change is get rid of the pump to suply the fuge, just put a "T" fitting in the return line add a ball valve (or better yet a gate valve) and run that to the fuge.
LOL... ok

Re: protein skimmer: Good deal.

Kinda thinking that it would be a bit like this: |-| or like a lowercase n. I could then get some aquarium safe glue or epoxy :) and stick those suckers together for good. No biggie there!

Re: Pump & Fuge...

So, take the pump in the middle... split the tubing so half goes to the main tank and the other goes to the fuge. Wouldn't this, like, greatly reduce my water turn over in the main tank? The pump I have on there right now is probably only doing about 975 gph.

I guess the better idea would be to get something like a Mag Drive 3600. (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=4590&N=2004+113041)

If I have it in-line it wouldn't generate as much heat in the sump (less evaporation) and at 4' I would get 3150 gph. Would that be overkill though? I'd be worried for any fish that comes near output at the top of the tank... Maybe I'd get the 2400.... LOL

[jojo22]

Re: Pump & Fuge...

So, take the pump in the middle... split the tubing so half goes to the main tank and the other goes to the fuge. Wouldn't this, like, greatly reduce my water turn over in the main tank? The pump I have on there right now is probably only doing about 975 gph.



that is why you put a gate or ball valve after the "T" you only want 3-5X turnover in your fuge so the water contacts the macros long enough to do their job, Ideal movement would be very calm but just enough to prevent stagnent areas at the corners and surface.

[GatorDrew]

Gotcha. :)

Thanks... saving me money. :)

Attached is with your recommendations. I'm thinking tubing can achieve all of this (not PVC). After the gate valve I'll just guide the tubing so it goes about half way into the fuge.

[jojo22]

Looks good, now take that money saved and spend it else where on the tank!!

[GatorDrew]

LOL! Yes, sir!

As question I had previously... if I were to install a float valve it would be installed in the middle section, correct? I'm 99% sure, just want a second opinion.

[jojo22]

Yes as that will have the most fluctuation. I would take a small peice of glass and drill it before install and then attach it so that you can readh it for maintnence/repair if needed. Just make sure you don't place it where the pump can't me removed for the same.

[GatorDrew]

yo jojo!

Alright... I'm starting on the project. My camera is broken now, but will be sure to show you the end result.

Anyway, it's a bit premature but I'm curious about the fuge.

Substrate... Kent Marine BioSediment (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=7418&N=2004+113554) looks pretty good. I've also heard Live Sand.... Mud... etc. Any opinions?

As far as macro algae goes, I think the winner is Chaetomorpha. Right?

[GatorDrew]

Ok... gotta admit. It would be pretty **** cool to have the BioSediment and Mangroves (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1477)!!!

[Reefscape]

i used aragonite sand in my dsb in the sump, 6 inches, then put live rock rubble and a mixture of chaeto and culerpa for macro's....Chaeto is the most common type found in sumps..

Niko

[GatorDrew]

I'll have to do a bit more research on mangroves. I grew up in Miami... so it would be pretty cool to have something like that. I gotta see if it's comparable to chaeto and culerpa...

Thanks!

EDIT! Read on here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaqs.htm)that I can mix mangroves (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=1477&N=0)and chaeto (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2401). I think I'll get some of that BioSediment as well. All I need is a nice fluorescent fixture with a light spectrum in the range of 6000°-8000°K. I'm pumped.

[Reefscape]

Good stuff Gator...Let us know how you get on and what results you come up with..could be quite a good little experiment...

Niko

[jojo22]

I'll have to do a bit more research on mangroves. I grew up in Miami... so it would be pretty cool to have something like that. I gotta see if it's comparable to chaeto and culerpa...

Thanks!

EDIT! Read on here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaqs.htm)that I can mix mangroves (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=1477&N=0)and chaeto (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2401). I think I'll get some of that BioSediment as well. All I need is a nice fluorescent fixture with a light spectrum in the range of 6000°-8000°K. I'm pumped.

Coralife makes a nice small unit, the one for freshwater comes with 6700K so that should do you great!!

http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_lighting_powercompact_compact-fluorescent_coralife_mini_aqualight_lamp_fixtures. asp?CartId=

[GatorDrew]

jojo - was thinking about this and was curious about your opinion. I'm thinking of splitting the fuge in half... so that:

4.5" is dedicated to BioSediment and mangroves.
4.5" is dedicated to live sand and chaeto.

The water from the return pump would then come in "over" the mangroves... and then very SLOWLY move over to the chaeto.

Here's my reasoning (makes sense to me at least... LOL)

The chaeto will obviously use A LOT more nutrients than the mangroves. The mangroves aren't nearly as effective, but do something. So, if the mangroves get the return water first that would give them first shot to get a LITTLE bit. Then the chaeto would devour the rest of the phosphates, etc.

Also, the biosediment would be MUCH thicker so that the mangroves could be some out of the water. Right now, the fuge is at 18" high... so it would probably be like 9" thick or something. I'm thinking the live sand would be about 4-5" thick.

Thoughts?

btw - that light you recommend would be good for the chaeto, LS, and LR too... right?

[jojo22]

Sounds good, and yep that light would be fine, Never heard of your idea but I think it should work, you are basicly useing 2 fuges nothing wrong with that.

[GatorDrew]

Sounds good, and yep that light would be fine, Never heard of your idea but I think it should work, you are basicly useing 2 fuges nothing wrong with that.

Do you think the attached would be necessary?

The second or "higher" T & gate valve will have much less water flow than the first (or the bottom one).

[jojo22]

Nope I would just run the line to the further fuge (labled bio/managroves) and let it cascade thru both of them!!

[GatorDrew]

Alright...

My tank has the all-glass megaflow overflow. To connect the tubing from that to my sump... I'm thinking this would work:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=16746&Ntt=inlet&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1

I would remove the little pocket or whatever...

[GatorDrew]

Alright... I got the tank and actually started to plan it out and draw dimensions.

Couple of thoughts..

The inlet area... the LR rubble will only be in a space that's 4"x12"x18" (WxDxH). Doesn't seem that big... is that ok?

The fuge area is 7.5"x12"x18".

How deep of a sand bed should be? I'm thinking 6-8".

Thoughts?

[GatorDrew]

Any thoughts?

[GatorDrew]

I hate to keep replying to nobody, but I figure that I should post updates...

[micynyorkies]

So why is the water flow separated between the protien skimmer and the macroalgae? Why not make the protien skimmer chamber flow into the macro algae chamber and then return?

[GatorDrew]

It wouldn't be as easy to control the flow. The refugium is supposed to have a VERY slow turn over rate... If it were in the middle, you wouldn't truly achieve that.

[Reefscape]

i do with mine...All you have to do is look at the thousands of reefs out there, and look how many have the fuge in the middle...its down to personal preference where the fuge goes. Anything can be achieved..

Niko

[GatorDrew]

Here is probably my last drawing... I hope. LOL. All baffles on left are 1" a part... right are .5"

Idea: Make the water flow into the return from the bottom, thus avoid splashing... etc.

Question: Do I need the first baffle on the left?

[Reefscape]

in my opinion, no you dont need it...same with the live rock, you already have this in the right hand fuge section...but, it is certainly not going to hurt anything having it there...

Right in the centre section...are they two baffles or measurement markers? just inside the middle two baffles that have 10" above them...

Niko

[GatorDrew]

Alright... so, I've removed that first baffle.

The water comes under, then over, then under into the return.

From the fuge, water pours through the teeth, under, over, then under.

This should get most of the bubbles.

Inlet: 2"
Glass: .25"

Skimmer Section: 7.5"
Glass: .25"
Space: 1"
Glass: .25"
Space: 1"
Glass: .25"

Return: 6"
Glass: .25"
Space: .5
Glass: .25"
Space: .5
Glass: .25"
Space: .5
Glass: .25"

Fuge: ~9.5

[micynyorkies]

Could you just drill some holes in a divider (small) like halfway down or something and not bother with all of the baffles? There shouldn't be bubbles halfway down, right?

[thetermite]

hey all...i need to build my own sump. my tank is 120cm x 50cm x 40x (240L). would anyone here have, and can provide me with plans (with dimensions and a shopping list) for a sump that would be good for a main tank that size?

any input would be highly appreciated. thanks

[Sploke]

the pictures listed in this thread would work great for a tank that size.

[thetermite]

alright. This is pretty much my layout (except mine is deeper. This drawing is scaled at 12" deep which reflects your setup)

Hopefully it'll help, if you decide to go with this kind of setup .


Cheech, nice design. im a assuming that would be sufficient for my 240L tank ( 120cm x 50cm x 40cm ). if so, what dimensions would you recommend for the sump? need help with dimensions pls! thanks dude

[thetermite]

scrap my last post. i missed a page and didnt see the dimensions properly. quick question tho: since my main tank is already running, drilling it is out of the question. so i would need an overflow box hanging the side of the tank with a hose from main tank to overflow box, then from the bottom of the overflow to the sump. my question would be what size piping or hoses should i be using?

another question would be: i still dont really understand why you would rest the LR rumble on eggs crates. would it be so that water runs past the rock and not create dead spots around the rock?

what about filling the sump. i obviously cant just turn the taps on the main tank and end up draining half the tank! haha, during a water change maybe? just make extra water and add it to fill both the tank as well as the sump. if so, would that induce another mini nitro cycle?

what should i look forward to in my water parameters after i start running the sump?

will be sketching a full plumbing diagram in the next couple of days and post for everyones comments. also still need to figure out where to put the sump. my stand is partitioned with shelves and storage space. will start construction when i figure that problem out.

[Sploke]

Your return plumbing size will depend on how much flow rate you end up with. For a sump that size, I would think 400-500gph max through the sump, which can be handled fine with a single 1" drain line. Yes, you'll need a HOB overflow box.

As far as filling the sump, I would get it all plumbed and set up, then just fill it with premixed sw, and turn it on. Keep a close eye on it for the first hour or two until you get a feel for what the water level difference is between having the return pump on and off. Do a few power-off tests to make sure your sump won't overflow, and mark a line on the sump for max-fill when the system is running. Unless you are using uncured LR, you shouldn't really see any spikes.

[ramarlex]

reefscape, your size would work. i've made a few fuges for friends and they like the fact that my intake is a 5.5 by 5.5 inlet with room in the same space for a skimmer. my refugium area is 16 wide by 13 tall to keep my macro and live rocks. along with a 5" deep sand bed. my return is 9" wide to accomodate a Mag 24 pump. good luck and post some pics when done.

[ramarlex]

your dsb should be no less than 6" otherwise it is a good design.

[Ace25]

Wow, 10 pages, don't have time to read them all right now, just wanted to quickly comment on the DSB. I am pretty sure 3-4" is considered the minimum for a working DSB, 6" is the generally accepted depth just to make sure you have an oxygen free zone, but I have read when you get above 10" deep it starts to have a negative effect because it can release more toxic nitrifying gasses than your tank can handle at once due to the increased amount of anaerobic bacteria from the larger oxygen free zone. There is no such thing as too shallow (bare bottom) but there is such thing as too deep, even on a fuge.