Conskis 34 Gal Solana Build
- Thread starter Conski
- Start date
Buying all new LR. 30 pounds on Monday then the water goes in and it cycles for a week or 2 and this way ill be sure to have a definite AK and CA level.
Im keeping al;l the rock i have in my 14 gal but taking everything about except my favorite thing ever.. mr harlequin shrimp who grew his left defensive claw back
Im keeping al;l the rock i have in my 14 gal but taking everything about except my favorite thing ever.. mr harlequin shrimp who grew his left defensive claw back
Yup, looking good. Last suggestion on the floating reef, those Bar codes that are in black ink on the PVC.. you can take a piece of sandpaper and sand that ink right off to make it all white. Makes it look sooooo much better and just takes a couple seconds to sand them off.
Last suggestion on the floating reef, those Bar codes that are in black ink on the PVC.. you can take a piece of sandpaper and sand that ink right off to make it all white. Makes it look sooooo much better and just takes a couple seconds to sand them off.
I think i will do that, also i think i am going to buy the mp10 before the live rook, id rather have all the equipment before i start even though its gonna kill me to wait another 2 weeks.
i edited this.. i think the mp10 will be plenty.. i dont plan on upgrading again and in the videos of the mp10 in my exact tank it works great with SO much water top disturbance.. i plan on following the video to make a short pulse wave on the top
i edited this.. i think the mp10 will be plenty.. i dont plan on upgrading again and in the videos of the mp10 in my exact tank it works great with SO much water top disturbance.. i plan on following the video to make a short pulse wave on the top
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Oh ya, one more suggestion. Drill several small holes randomly around the PVC. 6-8 tiny holes, a few on the top, would make it so it doesn't hold air and really float. You want the water and it is ok for a little sand to get inside the PVC as well. If you make a couple holes slightly bigger, big enough for copepods to move in and out, it would make a nice little refugium inside your tank.
Also.. got another idea. I will post again with a pic with my idea for ya to think about.
Also.. got another idea. I will post again with a pic with my idea for ya to think about.
ok, another dirty MS Paint job.. but what the picture is showing is a setup similar to mine.
Right back corner, replace the elbo with a T, on the top part of the T put a Slip-Barb adapter, get black hose the diameter you need, hopefully the loc-line and the barb are close enough for this to work with one short piece of black hose. What I would do, because you really don't need the Y splitter/loc-line return since your going to have the MP20, is I would remove the Y splitter and have the entire return coming out one loc-line piece. This would provide the flow to make the floating reef actually work for you more than just as a rock holder. I would drill 5 holes at the spots I put in the picture and drill them at an angle you think will work best. Start with 5 small holes, but big enough so grains of sand wont get stuck in the holes, and if they are like little jets then you can drill a hole at a time after that until the flow is just right. You want it to just be enough to keep the water moving upwards so stuff doesn't sink to the sand.
This is just brainstorming on my end.. don't feel any obligation to actually do this if you don't think it is what you want.. this is YOUR tank, so do what you think is best.
Right back corner, replace the elbo with a T, on the top part of the T put a Slip-Barb adapter, get black hose the diameter you need, hopefully the loc-line and the barb are close enough for this to work with one short piece of black hose. What I would do, because you really don't need the Y splitter/loc-line return since your going to have the MP20, is I would remove the Y splitter and have the entire return coming out one loc-line piece. This would provide the flow to make the floating reef actually work for you more than just as a rock holder. I would drill 5 holes at the spots I put in the picture and drill them at an angle you think will work best. Start with 5 small holes, but big enough so grains of sand wont get stuck in the holes, and if they are like little jets then you can drill a hole at a time after that until the flow is just right. You want it to just be enough to keep the water moving upwards so stuff doesn't sink to the sand.
This is just brainstorming on my end.. don't feel any obligation to actually do this if you don't think it is what you want.. this is YOUR tank, so do what you think is best.
Yup. Mine is run by a closed loop pump, but it does the same thing. The return water, clean water, will be forced out the holes from the bottom of the tank, creating an updraft and pushing the dirty water to the top so the overflow can skim the bad stuff out of the tank. No rule that says your returns have to look the way they do and I like to make things just a little different to try out new things because the "normal" way of stacking rock and adding flow to the tank leaves a lot to be desired, ie, just stacking rock and putting in a normal powerhead. With the MP20 you will have all your flow needs covered so this return mod will be aiding more in the clean water area vs the adding flow to the tank area.
Still.. just something to think about while your waiting to get the tank going.
Here is mine again.. the center hole on the back is my intake hole for my closed loop, and it gets returned into the 2 floating reefs through the back of the tank and out the holes I drilled around it. I have a 1100GPH pump attached to mine.
Still.. just something to think about while your waiting to get the tank going.
Here is mine again.. the center hole on the back is my intake hole for my closed loop, and it gets returned into the 2 floating reefs through the back of the tank and out the holes I drilled around it. I have a 1100GPH pump attached to mine.
