Fertilizer Recommendations & Info - the Informal FAQ

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happychem

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Just a point, Fluorite can be messy, if you tried to add it to the tank with standing water, it will be a great big haze. Empty the tank completely, lay down the Fluorite then fill the tank very gently, pouring the water over a saucer.
 

Swimfins

This is as good as it gets.
I'd just remove everything, put the fish in buckets ( brand new buckets, no soap or cleaners ever in them). Remove most of the old substrate, leave some on the bottom, and add the new substrate (make sure its rinsed, rinsed rinsed rinsed rinsed rinsed.beforehand..especially with fourite!! or else you'll end up with a yucky tank and nowhere to put the fish!!) Save some of the old substrate and sprinkle it in an inconspicuous spot.
 

SnakeIce

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djlen said:
Here are two more products that are 100% KNO3 and can be used for dosing N:
Green Light Stump Remover
Grant's Stump Remover - this one is a bit more difficult to measure as it comes in pellet form rather than a fine powder.
Len
I found that useing a small stone morter and pestle as found in high end cooking supplies outlets you can reduce the Grants Stump Remover to a fine powder with a little work.
 

Zongyi

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Sorry, but I am a newbie at this. Would it be safe to add all these chemicals at once (in the correct dosage of course) into a tank? Would the chemicals counteract each other or effect each other? Thanks in advance :) .
 

happychem

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They are fine all at once. However, there is a possibility that trace elements might react with PO4, so normally traces are dosed on alternate days. I doubt that there's much likelihood, given the low concentrations, but there it is.
 

Zongyi

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Thanks for the reply. I have another problem; I am haveing trouble finding some of these products in Canada. Can a Canadian member please tell me which stores to look or which asile to look in?
Spectracide Stump Remover, Salt Petre, Green Light Stump Remover, Grant's Stump Remover - I am thinking Home Depot, but I havn't checked there yet. The few stores I checked didn't know what this was.

Fleet Enema (KH2PO4) - I tried looking in a pharmacy in Walmart with no luck. I am thinking it will be in the vitamin suppliments section.

No-Salt - I have no idea what this is or what it is for, so I have no clue which stores to look in. Someone said it is grocery salt, so will table salt do?

Epsom Salt - I am assuming this is a brand of seasoning salt, so I looked in the salt asle. Is this normal table salt? How is it different from No-salt?

Thanks for the help :) .
 

happychem

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I've been through this myself, so perhaps I can help.

First off, if you know a couple of others around you (try your local aquarium society) who are also looking, then you can just order from www.gregwatson.com
The only reason I suggest having a few other on board is because the shipping is pretty steep for just one person. I ordered with two others and even after shipping Greg was the cheapest source for all our fert. needs.

My only complaint, which has nothing to do with Greg or his operation, is that I don't like the CSM+B trace mix. I'll use it until I run out, but the trace mix I got locally was better. The CSM+B stuff gets mouldy unless refrigerated and contains less Iron then the local stuff.

Another option is to phone your local hydroponics stores. A lot of the ones around here just sell mixtures, no good. But one or two have the individual dry ferts and it's just a little more expensive then ordering from Greg (if you have a few people, cheaper if it was just me).

If you want to go more DIY, here's a run down:
Fleet you can definitely get at a pharmacy. Go into Shoppers and ask for it, or just look for the Enemas if you're shy. Check the ingredients, you're looking for sodium (or potassium) phosphate (mono or dibasic).

NoSalt/NuSalt is not table salt. Table salt is NaCl, No/NuSalt is KCl. Look for it in the "Spices" Aisle, it's not cheap but will last you a long time. It also tastes like crap which makes me wonder how anyone could use it as a salt "alternative". ;)

Epsom Salt is MgSO4 (Magnesium sulphate/sulfate). They usually have it at Walmart in the pharmacy section. You can get a ton of it for about $5. Look around in the bath stuff section, it's usually for adding to baths.
 

GregWatson

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happychem said:
I've been through this myself, so perhaps I can help.

First off, if you know a couple of others around you (try your local aquarium society) who are also looking, then you can just order from www.gregwatson.com
The only reason I suggest having a few other on board is because the shipping is pretty steep for just one person. I ordered with two others and even after shipping Greg was the cheapest source for all our fert. needs.

My only complaint, which has nothing to do with Greg or his operation, is that I don't like the CSM+B trace mix. I'll use it until I run out, but the trace mix I got locally was better. The CSM+B stuff gets mouldy unless refrigerated and contains less Iron then the local stuff.
Happychem:

Drop me an email message sometime soon and let me send you some new trace mix I've been trying out for the last week ... you can let me know what you think of it. It's 15% Iron, more than twice what Plantex CSM has in it.

Here's the catch with "trace" mixes ... some chelators are stronger than others forcing plants to expend a greater amount of energy to break the chelator bond with the element that the plants want to consume. Now I'm not the scientist type person, so I can't tell you much about the different chelators ... just that it is an issue ...

Thanks,
Greg

P.S. I've never had Plantex CSM get moldy ... but I also store it in a white plastic bottle and never make up more than about a two month supply at a time (<grin> ... and I use aquarium water teaming with all kinds of live things to make it up <grin>) ... I really think that an opaque bottle makes all the difference.
 

reiverix

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I stopped making CSM+B mixes because of a problem with it going 'lumpy'. Nowadays I just add 1/4 tsp (~1.5 grams) to some water, give it a shake, and into the tank it goes.
 

happychem

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GregWatson said:
Here's the catch with "trace" mixes ... some chelators are stronger than others forcing plants to expend a greater amount of energy to break the chelator bond with the element that the plants want to consume. Now I'm not the scientist type person, so I can't tell you much about the different chelators ... just that it is an issue ...
Indeed (I did honour's research on chelates), but I wonder if a stronger chelate is a good thing or a bad thing. The chelates are there to keep the metal in reduced form, so a weak chelate might just mean that the element gets oxidized quickly, also requiring the plant to expend more energy to first reduce the element before use. Perhaps the ideal is somewhere in between?
 
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