What kind of substrate do you have in the main tank... and what rocks if any? It's very curious that the ph is creeping up.
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Fish getting worse! What infection does this guy have?
- Thread starter Jakezori
- Start date
check the GH and the KH those are the what really count.
sometimes water company would do treatments to the water or due to the storm or change their method of treating the water so maybe that's what happened to both of the fish- double whammy on the new one that has whatever it has
sometimes water company would do treatments to the water or due to the storm or change their method of treating the water so maybe that's what happened to both of the fish- double whammy on the new one that has whatever it has
the reason the water went up after a period of time is because I stopped doing distilled water top offs.
Unless you already have the KH/GH kits, dont bother as it may confuse more at this time.
Depending on how you altered (+/-) the pH, GH/KH can /will be altered to acceptable range without other additives (KH/GH tab)..
Once Red Hooks are stablized, You can run few experiemnts on your tap water with GH/KH w/o fish in order to comprehend your tap water which will be valuable asset down the road, assisting stablizing your tank water for fish kept by you.
I think you are doing just fine for now as to correcting water condition in q/t.
If water in Q/T is stablized at your desired condition, perhaps you can do the same for main tank provided it is not too expensive.
If you are familiar with distillation procedure, you can diy distillation contraptions. Better yet, Peat Moss maybe easier and cheaper.
I just hope you can find Kanamycin soon to cure and/or inhibit further implications.
Depending on how you altered (+/-) the pH, GH/KH can /will be altered to acceptable range without other additives (KH/GH tab)..
Once Red Hooks are stablized, You can run few experiemnts on your tap water with GH/KH w/o fish in order to comprehend your tap water which will be valuable asset down the road, assisting stablizing your tank water for fish kept by you.
I think you are doing just fine for now as to correcting water condition in q/t.
If water in Q/T is stablized at your desired condition, perhaps you can do the same for main tank provided it is not too expensive.
If you are familiar with distillation procedure, you can diy distillation contraptions. Better yet, Peat Moss maybe easier and cheaper.
I just hope you can find Kanamycin soon to cure and/or inhibit further implications.
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When I get Kanamycin (saturday) should I give it to the main tank or should I put both redhooks together? I am very tempted to put both redhooks together right now.
How are they doing? Has one in q/t displaying more bleeding? How aobout the one in Main Tank? Still Skiddish?
I would not med any fish which does not require Intensive Care, just provide TLC & proper condition as best as you can.
Let me ask you a question as we are expecting snow storm in which you may already be in the middle of, how about taking some clean snow, if possible, and melt and test pH?
Can you do that? If pH is neutral and you are not near industrial area, you can use that as reserve once melted and heated as I have used rain water and snow to prep new water.
All you need is clean containers/buckets. Pack with snow and pour some boiling water from melted snow or just keep them inside overnight. Voila! you may have all the water you need for water changes provided it was clean to begin with. No need to buy distilled water!!
As you can see, I did just about whatever I can possibly do with water for fish tank but never a filter for myself. Figure that out! LOL!
Like I said, I would not med unless fish shows same/similar symptoms. I would rather calm the fish and/or prevent further implications by correcting/providing close to ideal water condition.
Good Luck with fish and storm!
BTW, that is very alkaline water for most f/w fish. This is H/R pH test kit. Do you also have standard pH kit which test from 6.0 to 7.6?
I would not med any fish which does not require Intensive Care, just provide TLC & proper condition as best as you can.
Let me ask you a question as we are expecting snow storm in which you may already be in the middle of, how about taking some clean snow, if possible, and melt and test pH?
Can you do that? If pH is neutral and you are not near industrial area, you can use that as reserve once melted and heated as I have used rain water and snow to prep new water.
All you need is clean containers/buckets. Pack with snow and pour some boiling water from melted snow or just keep them inside overnight. Voila! you may have all the water you need for water changes provided it was clean to begin with. No need to buy distilled water!!
As you can see, I did just about whatever I can possibly do with water for fish tank but never a filter for myself. Figure that out! LOL!
Like I said, I would not med unless fish shows same/similar symptoms. I would rather calm the fish and/or prevent further implications by correcting/providing close to ideal water condition.
Good Luck with fish and storm!
BTW, that is very alkaline water for most f/w fish. This is H/R pH test kit. Do you also have standard pH kit which test from 6.0 to 7.6?
Thanks, but I have plenty of distilled water now. I will add it gradually to both tanks. Both fish still won't eat and the one in the 90 gallon has no signs of disease, but the 1 in the qt tank still has brownish spots. On the bright side, neither fish seems to be bleeding any more, but also they don't seem to be getting better. I have a large hunch that the redhook in my 90 has the same illness though as it has all the same actions, but not the visible symptoms yet. When I get the meds should I put them together and medicated them?
2 Rd Hooks in 20 G should be OK provided you make sure no NH3/NO2 is present in Q/t prior treating with Kanacyn. Just follow the direction carefully.
Provided that no NH3 is present in q/t, I would not test medicated water during treatment other than pH. One way to find out if Kanamycin affects pH.
You and only you can make the final decision as you can view/observe the fish better than anyone else can.
Provided that no NH3 is present in q/t, I would not test medicated water during treatment other than pH. One way to find out if Kanamycin affects pH.
You and only you can make the final decision as you can view/observe the fish better than anyone else can.
Velvet Disease
Velvet disease in freshwater fish is caused by the protozoan Piscinoodinium sometimes referred to as just Oodinium.
The velvet parasite is also sometimes classified as an algae because it contains chlorophyll. The velvet parasite obtains some of its food source through the clorophyll. It is for this reason that it is often suggested to darken your tank if your fish have a velvet outbreak, as chlorophyll is only active in light.
Symptoms of Velvet in Fish
Symptoms of velvet are similar to an ich infestation. You'll see small whitish spots on the fish, however, with velvet the spots will be much smaller and will not be completely white. In fact, the spots will be more yellowish in color. As with ich, the fish may act ill, with fins held close to the body, and you will often see the fish glancing off of rocks and other surfaces, presumably to dislodge the parasite, as they are irritating to the fish. If the gills are affected the fish will exhibit rapid respiration or gasp for air at the tank's surface.
Life Cycle of the Velvet Parasite
The velvet parasite has two life stages - a free-swimming form and a cyst form. The infective stage of this parasite is the free-swimming stage. During this stage the velvet parasite has 2 flagellae that enable it to propel itself through the water. The free-swimming stage of velvet is very small and is not visible to the naked eye (about 10 microns in diameter).
It propels itself through the water until it finds a suitable host, such as a fish. Once it finds a fish it will attach itself to the skin or gills of the fish and feed off of it.
Eventually it forms a cyst on the fish and remains there until it releases several hundred Piscinoodinium young that are of the free-swimming form. These go in search of another host and the cycle begins again. This is why velvet is so contagious.
Treating Fish Velvet
Fortunately, there are effective treatments for velvet. Copper sulfate seems to be the best treatment. You can use products with acriflavine in them, but these typically have unwanted side effects for the fish. The best product I've found for treating velvet is Coppersafe by Mardel, however, any copper sulfate solution made for aquarium fish should suffice. The only down side to using copper sulfate in your tank is that it kills invertebrates (if you have any).
The good thing about treating fish velvet with copper sulfate is that it also kills the ich parasite. Because of this, you don't need to distinguish between the two parasites. Copper sulfate gets rid of all external parasites in fish.
Keep in mind that it is only the free-swimming form of the velvet parasite that is affected by the treatment. In the encysted stage it is not vulnerable to treatment.
As mentioned earlier, if your fish have velvet, darkening your aquarium may help to irradicate the parasite. Adding a small amount of aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water) may also help.
Velvet disease in freshwater fish is caused by the protozoan Piscinoodinium sometimes referred to as just Oodinium.
The velvet parasite is also sometimes classified as an algae because it contains chlorophyll. The velvet parasite obtains some of its food source through the clorophyll. It is for this reason that it is often suggested to darken your tank if your fish have a velvet outbreak, as chlorophyll is only active in light.
Symptoms of Velvet in Fish
Symptoms of velvet are similar to an ich infestation. You'll see small whitish spots on the fish, however, with velvet the spots will be much smaller and will not be completely white. In fact, the spots will be more yellowish in color. As with ich, the fish may act ill, with fins held close to the body, and you will often see the fish glancing off of rocks and other surfaces, presumably to dislodge the parasite, as they are irritating to the fish. If the gills are affected the fish will exhibit rapid respiration or gasp for air at the tank's surface.
Life Cycle of the Velvet Parasite
The velvet parasite has two life stages - a free-swimming form and a cyst form. The infective stage of this parasite is the free-swimming stage. During this stage the velvet parasite has 2 flagellae that enable it to propel itself through the water. The free-swimming stage of velvet is very small and is not visible to the naked eye (about 10 microns in diameter).
It propels itself through the water until it finds a suitable host, such as a fish. Once it finds a fish it will attach itself to the skin or gills of the fish and feed off of it.
Eventually it forms a cyst on the fish and remains there until it releases several hundred Piscinoodinium young that are of the free-swimming form. These go in search of another host and the cycle begins again. This is why velvet is so contagious.
Treating Fish Velvet
Fortunately, there are effective treatments for velvet. Copper sulfate seems to be the best treatment. You can use products with acriflavine in them, but these typically have unwanted side effects for the fish. The best product I've found for treating velvet is Coppersafe by Mardel, however, any copper sulfate solution made for aquarium fish should suffice. The only down side to using copper sulfate in your tank is that it kills invertebrates (if you have any).
The good thing about treating fish velvet with copper sulfate is that it also kills the ich parasite. Because of this, you don't need to distinguish between the two parasites. Copper sulfate gets rid of all external parasites in fish.
Keep in mind that it is only the free-swimming form of the velvet parasite that is affected by the treatment. In the encysted stage it is not vulnerable to treatment.
As mentioned earlier, if your fish have velvet, darkening your aquarium may help to irradicate the parasite. Adding a small amount of aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water) may also help.
The fish in the 90 gallon ate today!!!!
The fish in the 20 gallon did not however.
I found something locally that might work, but I'm hesitant to put it in. It's either use it or wait until saturday around 4pm for the other med.
It's called sulfathiazole.
The fish in the 20 gallon did not however.
I found something locally that might work, but I'm hesitant to put it in. It's either use it or wait until saturday around 4pm for the other med.
It's called sulfathiazole.
