Home depot bulb or lfs bulb?

[M00n3at3r]

Yes, test the GH and KH of the source water (well here). I have the API test kit, it seems to last a while. And the pH of just the well water too; shake the water vigorously before testing pH just to outgas any CO2 there might be, as this affects pH. We don't need to do this in the aquarium, because we want to know the actual pH, but any CO2 in the source water will outgas and the pH will be different. I am going to surmise that it may be lower than the tank, but we'll see.

The Python needs a threaded faucet. You need to be able to screw it on either externally (like a garden hose tap) or internally (if there are threads up inside the faucet).

We progress bit by bit.:clap:

Byron.

So, 50% WC done, testing done, dosing done, bulbs switched. For the water change, I have a really long hose that i run from the tank to my window when draining and for re-filling, i took this idea from the python, i pulled off my shower head and ran the house to my tank! No more buckets!

Alright, I ran the test 3 times: before and after the WC and then just the tap water. AND THE RESULTS:
Tank (before):
Kh - 13 dKH
232.7 ppm
Gh -1 dkh
17.9 ppm
Ph- unsure it wasn't exactly any color on the chart see?
Ammonia - <0 ppm
>.25 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm

Tank(after):
Kh - 10dkh
179 ppm
Gh - 1 dkh
17.9 ppm
Ph - 7.8
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - 0

Tap:
Kh - 8dkh
143.2 ppm
Gh - 1
17.9 ppm
Ph 7-7.2
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - 0

Fin!

 

[Byron Amazonas]

As I suspected, something in the aquarium is raising the pH slightly. This is probably the Eco-Complete. My Flourite when I had it did something similar and it gradually lessened over time.

Other numbers look fine. You have very soft water (stay with soft water fish, as hard water fish like livebearers will not do well long-term), so my earlier suggestions hold.

Byron.

 

[M00n3at3r]

As I suspected, something in the aquarium is raising the pH slightly. This is probably the Eco-Complete. My Flourite when I had it did something similar and it gradually lessened over time.

Other numbers look fine. You have very soft water (stay with soft water fish, as hard water fish like livebearers will not do well long-term), so my earlier suggestions hold.

Byron.

This tank isn't the one with the fluorite, thus is my 75, the 30 has the fluorite. And by recommendation you mean the lights and water changes correct? I set my timer to go on at 12 and off at 11, so a little more then 8 hours, but hopefully not soo much that I can't control the algae.

 

[Byron Amazonas]

This tank isn't the one with the fluorite, thus is my 75, the 30 has the fluorite. And by recommendation you mean the lights and water changes correct? I set my timer to go on at 12 and off at 11, so a little more then 8 hours, but hopefully not soo much that I can't control the algae.

Be prepared to reduce the duration. In fact, I probably would, given the algae issues you are trying to end. You can always increase duration an hour at a time if the shorter period works. You need to find that balance. Remember that the 6500K light is going to be a tad stronger.

On the pH, are there any rocks in this tank? And what is the substrate material? I would be concerned over a rise from 7.0 to 7.8, something that should be corrected.

Byron.

 

[ktrom13]

Be prepared to reduce the duration. In fact, I probably would, given the algae issues you are trying to end. You can always increase duration an hour at a time if the shorter period works. You need to find that balance. Remember that the 6500K light is going to be a tad stronger.

On the pH, are there any rocks in this tank? And what is the substrate material? I would be concerned over a rise from 7.0 to 7.8, something that should be corrected.

Byron.

I agree. A ph difference from 7.0-7.8 is large. As Byron asked, any rocks in the tank? Substrate material? Driftwood? All these can affect PH .

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[M00n3at3r]

Be prepared to reduce the duration. In fact, I probably would, given the algae issues you are trying to end. You can always increase duration an hour at a time if the shorter period works. You need to find that balance. Remember that the 6500K light is going to be a tad stronger.

On the pH, are there any rocks in this tank? And what is the substrate material? I would be concerned over a rise from 7.0 to 7.8, something that should be corrected.

Byron.

Yes, there are 5 large pieces of lava rock, the very porous kind. The gravel is just the standard from the pet shop polished pebbles. Oh, and a small piece of bark that I soaked and boiled. But it's been in the tank for a year so hypothetically all the tannins and stuff I didn't get out would be out right? Plus one tiny piece of couldn't possibly throw all that off. I suppose the rocks could do it couldn't they?

 

[M00n3at3r]

Would it just be easier for you to PM me Byron? Or does it not really matter either way?

 

[ZorroNet]

Please don't move this to PM. I am learning from this


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[Byron Amazonas]

I've no objection to a PM discussion, but I agree, that others may learn or have insights if we keep discussions open.

You won't want to hear this, but I would remove that lava rock. It is prone to raising the pH and is the likely culprit here. You will have much better water stability, which of course means healthier fish and plants, if you can do water changes with tap water and not affect the parameters this much. Also, given the very soft water, the fish will be better in an acidic pH and the tank will naturally go that way. My tap water is 7.0 to 7.2, with near-zero hardness, and all my aquaria run in the pH range of 6 even with weekly 50% water changes.

I like wood in soft water fish tanks because the fish are used to this naturally, and it comes in various shapes that can make interesting aquascapes. One of my favourites, in fact the only wood I use now, is the Malaysian Driftwood that is very dark brown, almost black. It is heavy so it sinks immediately, and the chunks have tunnels and each piece is different.

Byron.

 

[M00n3at3r]

I've no objection to a PM discussion, but I agree, that others may learn or have insights if we keep discussions open.

You won't want to hear this, but I would remove that lava rock. It is prone to raising the pH and is the likely culprit here. You will have much better water stability, which of course means healthier fish and plants, if you can do water changes with tap water and not affect the parameters this much. Also, given the very soft water, the fish will be better in an acidic pH and the tank will naturally go that way. My tap water is 7.0 to 7.2, with near-zero hardness, and all my aquaria run in the pH range of 6 even with weekly 50% water changes.

I like wood in soft water fish tanks because the fish are used to this naturally, and it comes in various shapes that can make interesting aquascapes. One of my favourites, in fact the only wood I use now, is the Malaysian Driftwood that is very dark brown, almost black. It is heavy so it sinks immediately, and the chunks have tunnels and each piece is different.

Byron.

I have no problem hearing that, it was just what I had when I set up and I really didn't want to put chinzy decor in. The drift wood at the LFS by me is a little pricey, like 6.49 per lb. It's heavy wood, a little piece feels like a brick, but I did find a nice fake one on petsmart's website that looks decent is fairly large.

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752224&f=PAD/psNotAvailInUS/No

I like the look of the actual structure, I will probably pull out the fake plants and replace them with Java Ferns that are already in my tank.