haha i almost named the other one multi pass haha nah i was thinking corbin..:grinyes:
Introducing Leeloo the leopard gecko
- Thread starter got2envy
- Start date
I got them both at petsmart..i know, i know :headshake2: but they looked in good health and i had them feed them in front of me..also kept on repti carpet as for the morph..i really don't care as long as they are healthy :thumbsup:
I bought almost all of mine from petco so it don't bother me as long as they are in good health. More than likely they are both female petsmart and petco really only stock females because males can't be kept together and they keep them bulk and know that most keepers will keep them together.
Thats good to hear cause i haven't had a chance to look at Mooshu..I'm pretty sure Mooshu is female when I looked at the store..the ones I saw at the Petco were really young and they had them on sand
Carrot tail requires the gecko to have more of the orange in the tail, here's an example of a SHTCT:
The one could possibly be high yellow, but you can't always be certain until they are a little bit older.
Here's a careguide on leo's with sexing pictures, that way you can see the difference yourself:
http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leopard_Gecko
They seem a little too young to accurately sex, but you will know if it is a male due to the pores. If you do have one male, I recommend separating them until they are both around 1 year old and the female weighs at minimum 55g. The male will often try to break with the female, who in turn could breed early and die.
With using an under tank heater, make sure you are measuring the surface temperature either with a probe attached to the floor, or with a temperature gun (more accurate). A lot of heat mats get over 100F, and will require a thermostat or at least a rheostat to control. Every ZooMed UTH I've owned has gone over 100F (one was almost 120F) when not on a controller. Not something you want your geckos on!
Goodluck with them. Last May I had 3 leopard geckos and a crested, now I have 7 leos, 2 cresteds, a tokay, and a bearded dragon. Guess you can say it is addicting!
The one could possibly be high yellow, but you can't always be certain until they are a little bit older.
Here's a careguide on leo's with sexing pictures, that way you can see the difference yourself:
http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leopard_Gecko
They seem a little too young to accurately sex, but you will know if it is a male due to the pores. If you do have one male, I recommend separating them until they are both around 1 year old and the female weighs at minimum 55g. The male will often try to break with the female, who in turn could breed early and die.
With using an under tank heater, make sure you are measuring the surface temperature either with a probe attached to the floor, or with a temperature gun (more accurate). A lot of heat mats get over 100F, and will require a thermostat or at least a rheostat to control. Every ZooMed UTH I've owned has gone over 100F (one was almost 120F) when not on a controller. Not something you want your geckos on!
Goodluck with them. Last May I had 3 leopard geckos and a crested, now I have 7 leos, 2 cresteds, a tokay, and a bearded dragon. Guess you can say it is addicting!
Because they're nocturnal they don't really require lighting. Some breeders use light to stimulate breeding but that's about it. Most people use heating pads, heat tape, heat bulbs or ceramic heat emitters (personal favorite) to keep their leopard geckos at the correct temperatures. If I want to observe my geckos, I turn on the red heat bulbs I have. That color spectrum doesn't bother them.
