Plexi glass tank cover, will it work?

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smyke

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Oct 9, 2007
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BK, I will be building a canopy too and was wondering if you were having any issues with moisture in yours.

I like splokes idea too as I was worried about the access through the canopy.
 

Sploke

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Oct 20, 2005
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A few of my tanks have homemade canopies, the rest are built in-wall so the lights are hung from the ceiling or from the rack above, so it doesn't have to be pretty. Most of my lighting is PC.

As far as moisture goes, most lights create enough heat that condensation isn't an issue. As long as you have sufficient ventilation to avoid heat buildup, the air flow takes any moisture with it.
 

smyke

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I am planning on having an open back canopy with no fans or anything like that. It will hold 4 (maybe 5) screw in CFLs at 26w maximum. my tank footprint is 36x12.

that should be OK, right?
 

Sploke

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Yeah as long as there's some space for airflow, you should be fine. Unless you have a ton of light stuffed in there, just the motion of the air warming, expanding and rising will cause enough current to draw in cooler air without needing a fan.
 

Bk718

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Nov 29, 2007
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BK, I will be building a canopy too and was wondering if you were having any issues with moisture in yours.

I like splokes idea too as I was worried about the access through the canopy.
I had moisture issues before when i didnt have a glass canopy on. Overnight when there was a change in air temp in the room, the next morning the inside of the canopy would have condensation on it.. But that stopped once i added the glass.

My canopy has a "semi" open back since i had to make a space for the HOB filter and a slot for the heater, so I would say theres enough ventilation going on.
 

jflng

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Apr 23, 2007
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I prefer glass tops because of issues like debris and moisture.

If your lights are exposed to an open top tank, it's best to make sure moisture can't penetrate anything important: Moisture resistant end-caps, no exposed wires under wire nuts, etc.

Even if you do take precautions, equipment could potentially wear down quicker, or IMO be more troublesome. The light housing, reflectors, and lamps are subject to those irritating hard water deposits that end up on your glass. I'd rather wipe a glass top down over a whole light fixture, and I'd rather not pay for more expensive parts like moisture resistant endcaps; at least not until I become filthy rich and use softer water.

A glass top definitely helps protect you equipment. I don't know how not having one works so well for some.

I'll probably try something like the sliding glass option for my current canopy project.
 

smyke

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Oct 9, 2007
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I will definitely have some sort of cover on that tank. not even a question.
I realy like the idea of two seperate pieces that sploke mentioned. a lot easier to handle that way.

when I go to the glass cutting shop what kind of glass do I ask for? does it have to be anything specific?
 

Bk718

No Monkey Business
Nov 29, 2007
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I use indoor/outdoor rubber sockets. So far so good

When you get glass measure out the size inside the rim, for length wise let it be 1/4 smaller so it slides easily.. For width/depth wise let measurement be around 1-2" smaller so that in the back you can fit the plumbing,heaters,wires w/e..
You can get 3/16" glass thickness. If you decide to do it how i did mine then it will fit perfectly into the molding. (i got 1/4" and had to trim molding to accommodate for the glass thickness) LINK
 

Sploke

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I don't use glass tops on my reef tank because of heat buildup. With the glass, it doesn't allow evaporation and my tank temp spikes. I don't seem to have too much issue with salt creep or water stains up on the reflectors though, luckily.
 
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