True or False?

[Star_Rider]

Wow, there is so much wrong with this thread.

dunedain05, if you are testing the water then you should post the results. this may help.

also 3 plants in a 10 g tank usually does not constitute a 'heavily ' planted tank .(there are cases where the OP is referring to species and not actual counts..like a large bundle of anacharis, wisteria and carpet plants covering the bottom of the tank) Moss balls are not that great at removing much of anything. and 10 little guppies may or may not add much in terms of nutrients for any plants you have that could be removing said nutrients.

the problem may have been the stock you had gotten.. if new they may very well have had issues when you got them. the babies may not exhibit the same issues.

also many juvenile fish seem to do better at handling stress than the adults. often the case with juvenile angels and discus which tend to handle transport better than the adults.

again, we don't have much to go on to assist you.

maybe you can 'help us to help you' by giving us a little more info about your set up water parameters, maint schedule , pictures of the set up .

etc

 

[petluvr]

Why have we still not seen water test results?

 

[enrique4jc]

Because they are not being done. According to another thread they reject both water changes and the need to test water parameters. They're too scientific to waste their time on it.

 

[dougall]

meh

 

[fishorama]

Yes I am testing and retesting ideas. Not testing water doesn't mean there are lack of tests. I am not running with a single case, I haven't even made a conclusion with the exception that it is not a water change issue. Minerals for the plants are plentiful from the waste from the fish. You should look into the sciences of aquaponics/hydroponics same thing. There is nothing in my water that is going to benefit the plants more than what they already have or need.

Then post your "data"! You have NO idea what a heavily planted tank looks like if you think 3 plants in any tank is "heavily planted" even with a moss ball. & yes, plants do "use up" KH that is not replaced by fish waste, that's part of what water changes "fix". Do some reading, man, we're trying to help you, not by calling people ****s.

 

[Dunedain05]

Absolutely false. They have all the benefits of any other plant, and yes algae are just another type of plant. There are plants that may to better or worse in one benefit or another, but they serve the same function.

 

[ffmurray]

Absolutely false. They have all the benefits of any other plant, and yes algae are just another type of plant. There are plants that may to better or worse in one benefit or another, but they serve the same function.

What are you referring to as absolutely false?

I can't help but feel this thread has gotten too confrontational. People here just want to help you out, its just really hard to without a good base to start off with. Would you ever consider testing your water? an API freshwater test kit isn't that bad and has enough reagents to test many many times. Even if you believe that water is not your issue this time it doesn't hurt to be able to test your water in the future, a good test kit is a good tool to have in your belt as a responsible fish keeper.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

 

[Text]

People please do not be rude .
I was a member of the frog forum and we had plenty of know it all rude people there . I eventually had to tell 1 or 2 off and got banned .

But right after that the zoological society of america had me send my findings to them and were extremely interested in the way i care for my C Cranwelli .

This totally proved them wrong and my care guide correct and updated which included the human factor . As i was banned they will not benefit from my findings .

I am currently working a totally new care sheet and fact sheet which Americas Zoos are interested in .

Patience is a virtue and if you get frustrated with someone i know it is easy to be mean to them online as you do not have to say it to them face to face ,so some feel they can say anything .

If you are getting nowhere with some one simply stop replying to them and let someone with more patience handle it . This person sounds like he is new to the Aquarium hobby and is worried about his fish . He came here for your expert advice , if he is alienated he will continue to make the same mistakes and we all care about our fish so we wont be helping him at all if we chase him away.

People like Star Rider seem to have the patience for guys like this , maybe let him handle it?

 

[Text]

[h=2]
This could be his problem tell me what you guys think?


Columnaris[/h]This looks similar to fungus, but is actually caused by one of two types of gram-positive bacteria. Its causes are not really understood, but it may arise due to crowded tanks, poor water conditions, inadequate filtration, or poor water circulation (aeration). It manifests itself in the beginning of the disease as a whiteish area where the pigment appears gone, usually on the peduncle or the body's middle area ("saddleback columnaris"). The guppy will later show difficulty swimming as the body slowly becomes paralyzed. Most often this affects female guppies for some reason, and it is highly infectious -- it can destroy all the fish in the tank if the affected fish is not removed.
To cure columnaris, treatment must be initiated as soon as symptoms show. Breeder Stan Shubel has cured columnaris with a formalin (37%) dip, then leaving the fish in a tank with two drops of this formalin per gallon for a few days. Strong aeration is a must with the treatment. Formalin is a strong chemical which I do not advocate the use of; see more information under Fluke Treatments (Parasitic Problems). A wide-spectrum antibiotic such as Maracyn is an alternative.
I have personally cured columnaris by making 2 large 50% initial water changes, then adding salt over the course of 3 days to triple the amount the fish are accustomed to. In a few days you should see vast improvement if not a complete cure. Leave the salt in the water until the fish look completely clear of the disease, and then remove the salt (or return the formerly-used concentration) by doing a few water changes over the next week. This is the safest possible remedy and one that I wholeheartedly endorse, since salt is safe for fish and humans.
Potassium permanganate (KMnO4), an oxidizing agent, can be used as a short-term bath (30 minutes at 10 mg/L). Careful observation of the guppy is important to avoid mortality since it is a very strong chemical. Potassium permanganate should not be used more often than once a week to avoid gill or mucus damage.

 

[Star_Rider]

Text, columnaris may very well be the issue here.
could also be a host of other issues.
More info from the OP may prove beneficial as well.