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It happens sometimes with Angelfish, they can be mean as hell to everything or co-specifics. I like to put the aggressor in QT for a couple of days and maybe transplant some plants or even adjust hardscape before putting him back, then it sort of resets the balance a bit.

Wow, I'm gonna start using Ebay more.

Very interesting, whats the bridge constructed of?

If your patient with Fluorite its not bad at all, wet it, then let it dry. Easy Peasy

Pearling is when a plant is basically working near its maximum, its ripping the Carbon off of the CO2 molecule so fast, that your see a string of O2 molecules being released.

http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/dosing.html I recommend keeping Nitrates above 10ppm.

Reactors are more efficient, due to the larger volume of water in contact with the gas. Plus a reactor is sealed and the extra gas cannot escape.

Its really up to and the fish you have, every one has a different preference, but 6700k is the highest Kelvin rating you can get on the cheap at a home depot or lowes.

The tip with Flourite is to rinse it, alot. Then let it dry out again, like on old cookie sheets, and with it being summer, the long hot days makes it a quick process.

I use both, but I like the texture and color of regular Flourite. Eco just looks like lava rock to me, but if your growing a carpet of plants, you aint gonna see it after a few months anyhow.

Have you called Dr Foster/Smith, they would probably know better if you have a defected unit or not? And could also verify that you need to hammer it together.

Its far easier and less time consuming to usually just purchase a large bottle of 4kDH fluid. No guessing/math and a bottle will last many many years.

Wattage isnt an issue at all if your not trying to grow plants. You just need enough light to see the fish really. If you goto Home depot they sell T5 bulbs in 6700k pretty cheap too, but thats if you dont like the look of 3000k bulbs.

This must have been typed out extremely fast, cause I cant understand what this means, haha. But I do agree, I love the flexibility of of T5s in common length tank. But, the only place that MH seems to be a necessity is when you're setting up those odd-ball corner and hex tanks, and then HQI...

From Tropica: http://www.tropica.dk/productcard_1.asp?id=003D

Place them at opposite sides, say about 1.5 feet from each other. This should help with keeping both sides circulated and aerated.

Of course, but the extra space doesnt need to be filled with bio-media, it can be overloaded with floss, carbon, etc. Plus you increase the volume of the aquarium and again out-gassing is decreased, and the filter can double as a CO2 reactor.

kensfish.com for most filtration/food needs. But Petsmart.com occasionally because they usually have the best deals on Eheim filtration. For lighting, you cant beat catalinaaquarium.com or fishneedit.com, depending on what you need.

No it is not a necessity, just makes it easier to preserve CO2 especially if your going the DIY route with CO2 production. Canisters allow better placement of return and intake lines allowing you to custom tailor flow pattern or surface agitation. Plus they give you a greater volume of space to...

If we're going planted, and want to preserve CO2, why not buy a small cansister filter. A small Eheim/Rena filter should not cost too much more than a pair Aquaclear 50s and at the same time provide better filtration. Btw, Kensfish.com has some of the best prices on filtration is you dont mind...