14g BioCube Oceanic
- Thread starter Temptress
- Start date
well ideal flow from that pump would be a 10x turn over ....14g 140g per hour is sufficient... Still 200 is no biggy but it depends on what you do about that flow outtake.
I suggest getting Loc-line it will connect to the end on the back wall and you can split that thing and redirect the current so you dont have a jet spray flow going. And still have the turn over from that Rio pump.
Loc Line at Marine depot so you get a visual:
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage~PageAlias~plumbing_parts__index.html
I suggest splitting this in half and using a "Y" split having 2 of them
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...arts-Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies~vendor~.html
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IMO take the "flow rating" of any powerhead and cut it in 1/2 and that will give you closer to a "true" output. This is why I recommend a Koralia2. I run a 3 AND a 2 in my 29G, which is double the size of your tank. My 29G is fish only and IMO what I would consider "low to moderate flow" in the tank. By no means is it excessive, and that is running a HOB filter + a 850GPH powerhead and a 600GPH, so my flow would be 1450GPH in a 29G which comes out to 50x turnover, but the reality is it looks no where near that much flow. Really I think it is closer to 25-30x turnover, which IMO, 25x is bare minimum in a saltwater tank. 10x is good for a freshwater, but I doubt your going to be able to keep dietrus and cyano away with only 10x turnover in a saltwater tank. Again, these are just my opinions, not trying to disagree with others for the sake of causing trouble. 
IMO take the "flow rating" of any powerhead and cut it in 1/2 and that will give you closer to a "true" output. This is why I recommend a Koralia2. I run a 3 AND a 2 in my 29G, which is double the size of your tank. My 29G is fish only and IMO what I would consider "low to moderate flow" in the tank. By no means is it excessive, and that is running a HOB filter + a 850GPH powerhead and a 600GPH, so my flow would be 1450GPH in a 29G which comes out to 50x turnover, but the reality is it looks no where near that much flow. Really I think it is closer to 25-30x turnover, which IMO, 25x is bare minimum in a saltwater tank. 10x is good for a freshwater, but I doubt your going to be able to keep dietrus and cyano away with only 10x turnover in a saltwater tank. Again, these are just my opinions, not trying to disagree with others for the sake of causing trouble.
IM all for higher turn over myself... Minimal I was recommended more than once by fellow reefers locally would be 10x reason I mentioned it...
I don't have any supportive articles or any true solid source of info to quote having a specific turn over myself.
I do know that I have much more than 10x myself to Ace... I always believed in more flow the better... just as long as the sand isnt being blown around like its in a laundry machine.
Ok, so Koralia 2 then, we're in agreement.. should I upgrade the return pump as well?
On a side note.. does anyone want to buy a Controllable Koralia 2? Ugh..
And my plans are still to have lots of corals in here.. different types.. but for now I have ordered just some zoas.. I should have about 7 different kinds in about a week, does that change anyone's mind about the flow level?
On a side note.. does anyone want to buy a Controllable Koralia 2? Ugh..
And my plans are still to have lots of corals in here.. different types.. but for now I have ordered just some zoas.. I should have about 7 different kinds in about a week, does that change anyone's mind about the flow level?
Nope, I still think a 2 is the perfect size for your tank. I have played with all the Koralias extensively, and I can say that a Koralia1 and a Koralia Nano are pretty worthless. A nano would be good for a tank up to 5 gallons, a 1 up to 10 gallons and even then it won't reach from one end of the tank to the other, 1's are just not very strong at all. The 2 should be all you need. As for the return pump, IMO no, you shouldn't replace it. The tank is designed to have a certain flow going through the filtration and putting a bigger pump there will only give you less filtration in exchange for slightly more flow. It is a very common mistake by most.. trying to make their filtration also be part of their overall flow in the tank, and it just isn't a good way of thinking. Try and keep your filtration pumps for just filtration and your powerhead for your flow. Don't combine filtration flow with powerhead flow to give you your overall turnover.
That said, Koralia 2 is rated at 600GPH, reality is probably 400GPH, which would come out to 28.5x turnover, a good spot to be at.
That said, Koralia 2 is rated at 600GPH, reality is probably 400GPH, which would come out to 28.5x turnover, a good spot to be at.
Awesome, thanks a bunch for that, will be ordering that right now then =)
on a side note, I have a 10-30gal submersible heater that I would like to put in the back part of the tank so I can remove the 300watt one (ya I know.. it actually has to be diagonally on the backwall to even fit) but which hole do I put it in? the first one behind the filter pad? it doesn't seem deep enough.. does it go in the one with the LR (got rid of the bio balls and bought some rubble)? I am such a newb...
on a side note, I have a 10-30gal submersible heater that I would like to put in the back part of the tank so I can remove the 300watt one (ya I know.. it actually has to be diagonally on the backwall to even fit) but which hole do I put it in? the first one behind the filter pad? it doesn't seem deep enough.. does it go in the one with the LR (got rid of the bio balls and bought some rubble)? I am such a newb...
First, make sure the heater is submersible. Some cheap ones are not and will pop if you fully submerge them in water. 300w heater? WTH?!?! I am only running a 150w heater on my 75G tank and that barely fits in my sump.. 300w heaters are HUGE.
There is usually a line on the heaters that state were the water level should be, as long as the heater fits and can reach the water line it shouldn't matter where you put it. If you know your heater can be put underwater then stick it anywhere it fits that is out of sight.
There is usually a line on the heaters that state were the water level should be, as long as the heater fits and can reach the water line it shouldn't matter where you put it. If you know your heater can be put underwater then stick it anywhere it fits that is out of sight.
lol ya it's big, I actually had bought them both to run in my 55gal tank that I had for my oscars..
so I got the one out (it was in my FW tank fully submersed keeping it a comfy 78 degrees) and I got it to fit into the intake part.. right behind the filter pad so now I'll just monitor the temp of the tank for a day or 2 and make sure all is well, and it already looks 100 times better without that thing running the full length of the backwall haha
I also seen today that I have a new animal growing in there.. NO clue what it is.. it resembles a clear/white tree.. has a large stump and a bunch of little bristly looking things coming out of the top.. so yay thing are growing =)
I went to the LFS and in a 14g biocube identical to mine, they had a blue damsel and a strawberry dottyback living together so I bought them 2 fish.. I bought them 4 different kinds of "frozen" meaty whatevers, yuck. Like the guy said and they seem to be moving in nicely, theyve been in there for about 4 days and no changes in water params altho my ph seems a bit lower than is recommended.. it comes out of my tap (yes I know, I have more questions about that) at a lovely 8.2 but with the salt (I'm guessing) it's only at about 7.8-7.9 should I worry about this? and what would bring it up.. naturally mostly..?
about the water.. I am not quite able to make the plunge on a ro/di yet, a LFS isn't for at least 60miles.. I was looking at walmart and they have 3 different types of bottled water.. distilled, spring, and drinking.. the drinking is the only on that says it uses ro.. but then I also seen a culligan bottle water filling station.. what's the best choice? I am also ordering something called phos-out or something like that.. because I have some hair algae and I assume this is why.. I bought a cpl hermit crabs and am looking for some cleaner shrimp cheaper than $49
and now I will take time to breathe.. geez I get long winded.. sorry about that.
so I got the one out (it was in my FW tank fully submersed keeping it a comfy 78 degrees) and I got it to fit into the intake part.. right behind the filter pad so now I'll just monitor the temp of the tank for a day or 2 and make sure all is well, and it already looks 100 times better without that thing running the full length of the backwall haha
I also seen today that I have a new animal growing in there.. NO clue what it is.. it resembles a clear/white tree.. has a large stump and a bunch of little bristly looking things coming out of the top.. so yay thing are growing =)
I went to the LFS and in a 14g biocube identical to mine, they had a blue damsel and a strawberry dottyback living together so I bought them 2 fish.. I bought them 4 different kinds of "frozen" meaty whatevers, yuck. Like the guy said and they seem to be moving in nicely, theyve been in there for about 4 days and no changes in water params altho my ph seems a bit lower than is recommended.. it comes out of my tap (yes I know, I have more questions about that) at a lovely 8.2 but with the salt (I'm guessing) it's only at about 7.8-7.9 should I worry about this? and what would bring it up.. naturally mostly..?
about the water.. I am not quite able to make the plunge on a ro/di yet, a LFS isn't for at least 60miles.. I was looking at walmart and they have 3 different types of bottled water.. distilled, spring, and drinking.. the drinking is the only on that says it uses ro.. but then I also seen a culligan bottle water filling station.. what's the best choice? I am also ordering something called phos-out or something like that.. because I have some hair algae and I assume this is why.. I bought a cpl hermit crabs and am looking for some cleaner shrimp cheaper than $49
and now I will take time to breathe.. geez I get long winded.. sorry about that.
I used one of those culligan type drinking station fillers and bought a couple 5G water containers from Wal-Mart and used that method for 7 years! Waaaay to long, but just got to be a routine I fell into. When I finally got my RO/DI filter I was kicking myself wondering why I waited so long.. but for the short term, first year or so, I would definately go with the culligan water for the price, convienence, and most likely the best water source locally for you at the moment.
Those 2 fish, both are semi-aggressive, and probably will be the only 2 swimming fish you will be able to keep in there. They should be fine together though because they are pretty similar in their behaviour/mood. I wouldn't be suprised if there is some occasional chasing going on, but each can hold their own against the other.
7.8 is perfectly fine for a tank. There are many tank of the month reefs on Reefcentral that look amazing and they state they have always had problems keeping PH above 8.0, usually 7.8-7.9 and their tanks were amazing. I think the biggest thing PH is going to affect is the ability to uptake calcium in stony corals, not something your going to be concerned with for a long time.
Cleaner shrimp, not really required and won't do much cleaning, only fish occasionally. They are cool creatures, but your $ will be better spent on more CUC like nasarius snails, cerith snails, and more hermits.
Those 2 fish, both are semi-aggressive, and probably will be the only 2 swimming fish you will be able to keep in there. They should be fine together though because they are pretty similar in their behaviour/mood. I wouldn't be suprised if there is some occasional chasing going on, but each can hold their own against the other.
7.8 is perfectly fine for a tank. There are many tank of the month reefs on Reefcentral that look amazing and they state they have always had problems keeping PH above 8.0, usually 7.8-7.9 and their tanks were amazing. I think the biggest thing PH is going to affect is the ability to uptake calcium in stony corals, not something your going to be concerned with for a long time.
Cleaner shrimp, not really required and won't do much cleaning, only fish occasionally. They are cool creatures, but your $ will be better spent on more CUC like nasarius snails, cerith snails, and more hermits.
