20 long reef build

If you plan on the RODI soon Bulk Reef Supply will probably running them $20+ off for thanksgiving/black friday.

I've got nerites in my FW tanks too never tried to swap any over from one system to the other, I would think it'll take a slow drip acclimation to not shock them.

Yes if I was buying again for a sub 40g no sump system I'd go with Tunze, they're both in tank, Eshops and remora have good HOB's for a little more but depending on your stand setup fitting could be an issue they're both 20"+ tall
 
thank you for all the help, today i got a 40 lb bag of sand, and made my bed about 2 inches deep, its about 1 inch above the trim, maybe a little more. The sand i got is not sugar sand, its the next size up, i was thinking of having a goby so i didnt want something to fine. i have running the AC 110 with foam, and the aqeueon 20 with nothing in it, also 2 koralia 425s. my heater is horizontal just under the AC, i plan on hiding it behind live rock. my salinity is 1.025. I picked up some ATI bulbs, i got BLUE + and the aquablue special.

the AC is on low power, but still kind of move the sand around, i was thinking the live rock will stop this, also i could make a kind of spray bar that will spread more of it out.

next week i will get 1 lb of live sand, and some base rock. Any thoughts on the sand bed, i do not want air pockets.
here are some pics

IMG_20131023_205551.jpg IMG_20131023_205534.jpg IMG_20131023_205542.jpg
 
what do you think about this RODI system, i thought you wanted 1 micron or smaller screen and blockhttp://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-75gpd.htmlcopy and paste
 
nassarus snails will help stir up the sand. I like to do the rock work before putting any sand in helps keep it more stable. Yeah once you have the rock work in it'll help deflect the output of the AC.

RODI system is good, 5 micron is ok for most water sources, running 1 microns or less without going through 5's first will shorten their lifes too.
 
well that is good to know, i do have a TDS meter so i could get the 5 and test the new water, and if its bad then up grade to a five stage with a 1 micron. i forgot about that completely, in all my cichlid tanks i have eggcrate in the bottom to stop any breaks, and this tank i didnt.
i will be getting eggcrate and sinking it down in there.

how many nassarus sanils would you recommend
 
I would not do eggcrate unless it is food grade. The light diffuser panels have changed in their construction over the years. Every time I see it used now, there is snot algae growing all over it. In a tank that size you should be perfectly fine working your rocks into the sand to the bottom pane. Up to you.

You're probably going to want to change/rinse the foam often in the 110. It will clog pretty qucik with sand dust.

No need to add live sand. The live rock will seed the sand the same way. I especially wouldn't waste money on bagged live sand. If you can get live sand from a trusted establihsed system that may help speed the seeding processing.

Air pockets are going to happen as the sandbed cycles. No way around it. It will dissipate soon enough.

I would probably start with 10-12 nass snails. I would also suggest 1 or 2 small fighting conchs. Obviously, don't add any cleanup crew members until the tank cycles and the diatom bloom is present.
 
^^^^ good to know, i will post an updated pic of the tank tomorrow with the new live rock.
the tank isnt as "blue" as i would like it to be, what would you do, add an LED strip to get more atinic light. also is my sand bed to deep. if this were FW planted it would be perfect, about 2.5 inches maybe less.
i thank you all for your help, saltwater has changed a lot in the past 10 years to me it seams.

Q on zooanthids- i plan on keeping them, but dont want them to take over all my rock, i was thinking i could get them to grow on one piece of live rock, separate from all the rest there for they would have to cross the sand to get on the main bunch of rock
 
i got 8 lbs of live rock today, i will post some pics soon
 
That is exactly what you would want to do with the zoas if you wanted to keep them isolated.

A LED strip with all Royal Blue chips would give you the blue you want. Or you could simply swap out the ABS for another Blue+ or an Actinic. The Blue+ is still a high PAR bulb whereas the actinic is going to be a drop. This may or may not matter depending on the corals you plan on keeping and the queslity of your T% fixtures ballast, reflector(s) and cooling ability. Likewise, using 3W chips versus 1W chips in an LED strip will have an impact on PAR. If all you are keeping is zoas and lower light LPS, a strip with 1W chips will be more than enough with the 2 T5s on such a shallow tank (assumes fixture is sitting on the tank and not suspended). The 3W chips may actually be too much for softies and many LPS if the fixture is sitting on the tank. A Dimmable 3W LED strip would be ideal if you want LEDs for these purposes.

Edit. I see your fixture is suspended so you have the ability to play with the height of the lamps/chips.

Looks great!
 
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