4300 Gallon Plywood Build (3600+ Take 2)

[Nolapete]

Based on what you've read in this thread, where on the back wall would you place the four bulkheads? Maximum of 2 in any of the wall plumbing cutout sections (the spaces between the framing that are just plywood). There are four cutout sections on each side of the back of the tank.

Top
Mid-Upper
Mid-Lower
Bottom

and of course they are on the left or right side of the tank.

In example,

Right Bottom - Two
Left Bottom - Two

or

Right Mid-Upper 1
Right Bottom 1
Left Mid-Lower 1
Left Top 1

Let me know where you'd put them.

 

[Luc]

Hello Pete, I would space them out to prevent currents forming.
Unless of course you'd like to have a planned flow in the tank where you'd better off clustering them to create such current.

 

[Nolapete]

Good to hear from you Luc!

I have a dozen different ideas and reasons for doing each of them, so that's why I asked for some feedback.

A couple that I like.

I could put pairs at the bottom on each side for better detritus collection, but that also has the potential of substrate getting sucked into them and building up in the external flexible pipe.

I could put one at Mid-Upper and Mid-Lower on each side for good coverage for circulation as you suggested.

 

[Luc]

Hello Pete, might not post always, but checking in daily to see your construction-progress.

As for lower levels cleaning, I'm quite sure that you'll get some large size bottom feeders in there to throw around with any dirt that stays low. Better to have all levels taken care of I'd say..

 

[Nolapete]

I just came up with an idea for surface skimming and I'd only need one or two more bulkheads to do it. Two would be better for increased flow and redundancy.

It will allow me to skim the entire surface.

This is very cool. I wish I had thought of this before. It would be great to use on PVC overflow intakes.

Slice 1/3 section off of whatever size pipe you are using. In my case 2". To get the idea of what I'm talking about, make a O with your thumb and index finger then open it up about the same amount as the length of your thumb past the joint.

You'll need two end caps that fit the pipe and a T the same size as your pipe.

Insert the cut pipe into the T with the cut section facing up. Put the end caps on the ends of the pipe.

Plumb the T to the bulkhead or pvc overflow.

If more than one bulkhead, add additional Ts and plumb them up accordingly.

This may even take care of some of the gurgling on PVC overflows.

This is so cool, I'll be able to skim the entire length of the tank.

 

[rithunder916]

Sounds like a good idea!

 

[Squawkbert]

... as long as you use sinking food and an auto top-off system...

 

[Nolapete]

Here's a drawing of the skim pipe that connects to the T which is plumbed into the bulkhead.

 

[Sploke]

This is basically one variation of the "coast to coast" overflow design used in reef tanks. The idea being you can surface-skim the same volume of water but with a much greater surface area to capture more of the oily protein surface layer which is removed by the skimmer. You don't need an auto-topoff, just some sort of open-loop sump filtration so that the water level in the main talk is constant..i.e. a closed loop canister-like filtration system would in fact require an auto-topoff to maintain a consistent water level.

 

[Nolapete]

Dang, Sploke you went and got the red letters! Haven't seen you in ages.

Never have seen or even heard of the coast to coast overflow design, so I guess I'm pretty smart on my own