90 Litre Tank Stocking

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Byron Amazonas

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We seem to be travelling around in circles, as many of these fish have already been mentioned and commented upon (negatively for the most part). Of the new mentions, rummynose are not good in a 20g as they like to swim; my group of 20 is in a 5-foot tank and they cruise end to end. A very nice tetra, but it needs swimming space, at least a 3-foot tank, to be happy. It also has water parameter specifics more than many tetra, as indeed do rams, and that is an unknown so far. Check your local water supply website, the GH and KH and pH is often listed. By "have more space" do you mean a larger tank than the 90 litre/20 gallon?
 

Avocet

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By "more space" I meant the GBR was smaller so the stocking was smaller so I had more stocking (more space) for more fish. I know you said about not having gourami and kribensis together but is that just for the dwarf gourami or is that for any? Would a honey gourami be ok? Also, I've now been looking at cherry barbs and/or harlequin rasbora as shoaling fish (either 6 of each, 10 cherry barb or 12 harlequins) although I'm not sure which combination would be preferable. Also, I've now been looking at Julii corys instead of panda corys. Would a single small apistogramma, such as Apistogramma Agassizii or Apistogramma Cacatuoides , be ok in my tank or would you recommend against it? Also, would a dwarf or honey gourami be ok with an apisto? This stocking would look something like this: 1 Kribensis or 1 Apisto, maybe a dwarf or honey gourami, 6 cherry barb, 6 harlequin rasbora, 6 Julii cory and maybe some cherry shrimp. Edit: I've just downloaded my county's water quality report but I'm not sure what any of this means. Here's the link: https://www.eswater.co.uk/_assets/files/wq/Z634.pdf Also, the water in my area is supposed to be quite hard (109mg/l) so I'm not sure what that means for my fish. I haven't seen anything about GH, pH or KH on the website. The hardness si about 13-15 dH.
 
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Byron Amazonas

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As you are in England, I would suggest you speak with a reliable local fish store about your local water. I didn't see anything in the linked data about GH and pH.

So still with the 20g or 90 liter tank. I would say 3 Honey Gourami (1 male, 2 female) are OK, but forget cichlids. The gourami will be more colourful and out and about more anyway, which seems to be what you are after. With these, a group of 7-8 Harlequin Rasbora. And 6-7 julii corys. Shrimp are OK if large enough not to be eaten.

Byron.
 

Avocet

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Also, in regards to bottom feeders which would be best out of the following: 6 Julii Cory, 5 Dwarf/Chain Loach or 5 Kuhli Loach. Personally, I'm leaning towards the Kuhli Loach at the moment, jut because it's something a bit different but obviously I want to make sure it's ok for my tank.
 

Byron Amazonas

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Are you sure the honey gourami wouldn't be aggressive when breeding?
Males will be territorial when spawning, which is why the trio should be one male and two females.
 

Byron Amazonas

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Also, in regards to bottom feeders which would be best out of the following: 6 Julii Cory, 5 Dwarf/Chain Loach or 5 Kuhli Loach. Personally, I'm leaning towards the Kuhli Loach at the moment, jut because it's something a bit different but obviously I want to make sure it's ok for my tank.
The 20g is not large enough for the dwarf/chain loach (Ambastaia sidthimunki) which needs a group of five-plus and it does reach 2.5 inches. I have five in my 3-foot 33g and can't imagine them in the 20g I have. The kuhlii is OK in a 20g, a group of five, though 3-4 can work, but 5 is better. With kuhlii you need sand or fine gravel that is not rough as they like to dig, and they need good hiding spots or they will be continually stressed. Actually that applies to any loach (the hiding spots). Kuhlii are notorious for getting into filters and any small opening. And the corys in a group of 5-6 are obviously OK in a 20g.
 

Avocet

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I have quite fine gravel anyway because I was planning on getting some sort of bottom feeder and I'd read that sharp gravel could hurt their barbels. It's sort of like black quartz but it wasn't labelled as such. I was thinking about maybe, instead of getting 8 or so harlequin rasbora, getting six of those and six cherry barbs because I like cherry barbs and I've read that they can help make loaches feel safer. By the way, should I get one of those little tanks that fry can swim into for safety? I'm not too bothered if any of the species breed but I'm wondering whether I should just let the fry take their chances in the tank or actually grow them and sell them for store credit.
 
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Avocet

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I'm actually going to get Julii Corys instead because the people in my LFS recommended them to me. So the stocking is: 3 Honey Gourami, 6 Harlequin Rasbora, 6 Cherry Barb, 6 Julii Cory and about 12 Cherry Shrimp.
 

Byron Amazonas

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Jul 22, 2013
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I have quite fine gravel anyway because I was planning on getting some sort of bottom feeder and I'd read that sharp gravel could hurt their barbels. It's sort of like black quartz but it wasn't labelled as such. I was thinking about maybe, instead of getting 8 or so harlequin rasbora, getting six of those and six cherry barbs because I like cherry barbs and I've read that they can help make loaches feel safer. By the way, should I get one of those little tanks that fry can swim into for safety? I'm not too bothered if any of the species breed but I'm wondering whether I should just let the fry take their chances in the tank or actually grow them and sell them for store credit.
I know you are not intending loaches now (from your subsequent post) but will just explain what you mention about cherry barb making loaches feel safer. This refers to what is termed "dither fish" mainly with cichlids but it applies to most fish. "Shy" fish will tend to be much less so if they have other upper fish present. If there are shoaling fish above them, the loaches seem to assume it is safe to be out and about. This has it limits, but it is generally the case. It really doesn't matter if it is cherry barbs or rasbora or any other peaceful fish.

I would not mess around with fry compartments. First, this takes up valuable space in a smallish tank, and second you are not likely to see fry anyway. Livebearer fry tend to survive in most cases, some of them anyway, because they are born larger and can feed off normal foods from the start. With egg laying fish, in most cases the fish in the tank will eat the eggs the moment they are laid. Sometimes a couple may survive; it can depend upon how the species lays its eggs, as well as what other fish are present. Fish like the characins (tetra, pencilfish, hatchetfish) and cyprinids (rasbora, danio, barb, loaches) are egg scatterers (there are a few exceptions) which means the pair dive into a thicket of plants and a cloud of eggs is released and fertilized immediately. The eggs are usually a bit sticky and adhere to the plants. In nature the parents would swim away to continue spawning or whatever, but in the aquarium they are in close confinement and frequently begin eating the eggs once they have finished spawning. Also, other fish in the aquarium pick up the chemical signals (pheromones and allomones released by all fish) and know what is going on, and will frequently hover close by and gobble up the eggs within seconds of there being expelled.

I occasionally see a fry that has managed to survive because of the very thick plants, but it is not often unless the fish is the only species in the tank and if they are not inclined to eat the eggs/fry themselves. I have tiny pygmy cory fry in with the parents in my 10g as we speak. But even if the eggs survive and hatch, next issue is food. The fry of egg layers are very tiny compared with livebearer fry, and unless you specifically provide microscopic food they are left to forage the live foods in the aquarium, of which there will be some in most tanks that are planted. I added some dried oak leaves in my 10g to provide infusoria which is an excellent first food for fry, and obviously some managed on it. I also have Farlowella vittata fry growing up in this tank which is why the leaves are there to begin with, and these fish being algae eating will not bother fry, so there are no predators in this tank. Unless you set up a dedicated spawning tank, and remove the parents post-spawning, and then saturate the tank with microscopic foods, you are not going to have many fry survive to be sold.

Byron.
 
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