Can SW tank overflows be Mod into FW sub filters?

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
We anticipation of my craiglsit tank arrival now verified to be 225 gallons with two square plexiglas overflows and 2" holes on the bottom (Eeek!). After much consideration have decided that for myself SW is just too time consuming (water change salt pre-mixing) and expensive (sumps and pumps), that it would be in my best interest to stick with FW. having said that I have two problems, the built in overflow boxes and the drilled holes in the bottom, no sumps for me.
(problem 1) Since the cabinet has access to the bottom holes on the aquarium to install bullhead fittings and provide clearance, I am thinking instead of expensive "bulkhead plugs" a simple piece of plexiglas siliconed over the top of the hole from the inside will work and easy to overdrill if sold later as SW ready, what do you all think?.
(problem 2) Since removing the overflow boxes would be ashamed and I plan to use 300 GPM AC powerheads for aeration anyway, why not convert the overflow boxes to internal filters with powerheads mounted near the top pulling water from 1/2 inch hoses down inside to the bottom of the overflows, the overflows are then back filled with loose media in a long sausage net bag for removal and cleaning. When the powerheads are turned on the overflows start to work like a hybrid internal canister power filter. what do you all think?
 
I'm actually doing a similar thing to a 29 that was drilled and had home made overflow. the tank is really too small to play with a sump.
on this tank it was plumbed from the overflow so I simply used an expansion plug to shut off the overflow

I have a couple ideas since I have some spare parts(need to inventory these parts) and a spare powerhead.
siple plan is to use a lift tube from UGF pile in a sponge, pile some media around it with a tube coming from the outlet of the powerhead to the tank.
 
That sounds doable.

Another thought was since my overflows are like 4x4 inches, one small hole drilled in the side that can later be plunged is not going to hurt. So I was thinking install the power head at the bottom of the overflow with its own screened void (just a cover made of old underground filter grate) to allow water to collect at the bottom under column pressure for the power head to pick up and pump directly outside the overflow through a hole drilled in its side near the bottom. Then place the sausage net filled with loosed media like small lava rocks (for weight), bio balls, and 2 inches from the top sponge rip-rap. Turn on the pump and the water starts falling inside, filtered out the bottom. Because the pump is at the bottom reaping the benefit of column water pressure and then pumping directly outside, the pump should expediences very little load and therefore work very effectively, maybe.
 
One of the nice things about a drilled tank is your options for it. I for one like wet/dry filter systems as they can also double as a refugium in desperate times (i.e. fry that you didn't know you had). I am not a big fan of removing and existing overflow, modifying would be more in-line with what I would try. You can use bulkhead caps or make a u-tube to utilize them for your powerhead. Since you have shown yourself to be quite inventive, I think if you give yourself time you could come up with a very effective use of them. I like the idea of converting to an internal filter system. The AC110 sponges would certainly be large enough to accommodate it.
 
Gunner go with wet/dry filter for that tank they are great!

Gunner dont be afraid to go with the wet dry filter set up on your big tank, I use 5 of these set ups on each of my biggest tanks which are all fresh water. Once you do a wet dry you wont want to go back to other filters they are easy to clean easy to hide all other equiptment like heaters etc I use the TOM brand of wet dry and love it I have 5 of them running if they made a smaller version i would buy and use on my smaller tanks and get rid of all my other types of filters and just go 100% wet dry on all my tanks. Your tank is already drilled and ready to go, wet dry's arent just for saltwater and they do a excellent job and really move alot of water and in the end you have a uncluttered tank and a great filter. attached is the pic of the 5 wet dry filters i run. what i like about the Tom wet dry set up they are over flow proof no flooded floors because of the design and its true i have had my electricity do a few black outs for less than 30 minutes and when power was restored the wet drys starting self priming the over flow and all was great. the over flow box uses a aqua lifter pump so when the electric fails and the return pump stops it breaks the syphon and stops the water flowing down into the sump all i can say is tom makes a excellent wet dry and i have gotten a few friends to buy them and they all like them as well.

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Mr. Martha, I've read most if not all of your threads/post for a while now.

The one thing I've always noticed was how much you like filter media. Be it in the tank or wet-vac looking canisters.

Now your talking about converting 2, 4" built in overflows into filters. When you could have a 4' sump to play in?

Maybe it was the other tank you'd been looking at. That came with a 55g for a sump?
If a 55g didn't come with it. I'm pretty sure you could find a scratched up 55 on CL.

What I'm getting at, is. If you used the overflows for what they're intended for. You can make a very simple sump/massive media holder.
This would require 1 pump, opposed to(I can imagine) 5 or 6 fluval-vacs.

Yea, I'm confused. lol
 
Yeah, sumps are THE best thing for big tank bio filtration! You talk about surface area! in a sump media choices are endless...
 
:cry:Yeah I'm confused, ignorant, and wouldn't know the difference between a wet/dry and a sump if it was offered free. I'm also scared of more cost when people tank about a sump tank that must be 50% the size if the main tank. It all sound so oversized.
:jaw:
But the tank arrived and the cabinet and canopy are in much better shape then I expected. Of the damage that is present it is only 1 plywood layer deep on the inside, the outside finish is actually presentable if waxed up. But I have my hart set on burnt cheery again. The tank also looks better then I expected only dirtier as there is still gravel on the bottom and allot of dust, but surprisingly very little salt deposits. The overflows are huge in my opinion and one could covert it to a open faced canister filter. But its clear to see that too much work went into installing the overflows to just tear them out. The scratches they the owner described on the left hand side had to be searched for and barely visible hairline scratches. Its all just very dirty sitting having set in a dirt floor barn. All the moving in this 105F heat about stroked me LOL, so Im recuperating and will fill it up for a leak test, wash and siphon vacuum tomorrow.

I suppose I could brake down my 60 tank send my 15 large barbs Gobi Dragon to wait it out in my Koi tank, and use the 60 for a sump 48x24x18 but that's a little tall right? What about those heavy duty concrete mixing tubs? they are shallow about 48x24x8 and they do not distort because they are thick and shallow. I have had 2 filled on may back yard for the dogs for 4 years in the sun and they are still hold water after being kicked run over and chewed on, shallow is good right? I guess I have to put off the instant gratification and research the fun topics of "everything you wanted to know about sumps, referums and wet dry filters.:silly:
 
sump and wet dry often mean the same thing some guys here where i live call any wet dry filter set up a sump so i was confused in the begining what these terms meant. i call my Toms wet dry filter a wet dry. :) i bought all my wet dry's on sale for less than 129.00 that included shipping and included EVERYTHING need to hook it up and be done. Thats why i like the Tom brand of wet dry filter it comes with everything needed in the box hoses, return tubes, aqua lifter pump simple and complete 1 stop filter in a box it comes with a 1000GPH return pump i have about a 2 ft head so i get great return flow pressure. I have 3 LARGE baskets in my wet dry i have the bottom and middle filled with bio balls and the top i have my filter pad material. i dont use carbon in it, if i need carbon i use the hot magnum to run carbon for a few days but havent done that in a long time.
 
OK so all I need is this thing in the photo connected to the drains, some priming and I'm good to go? Or do I have to stick these in a container or two separate containers? I really need a simple sketch or a photo with arrows and comments. Or maybe the install instructions talk about what is needed. Ill see if I can download the instructions to that two part filter. Maybe I can skip the agony of required research reading and just extrapolate using the Tom's quick set up guide. Can you scan your and email.
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