CO2 Questions (new setup)

Loach:

Again, many of our aquaria species, say cichlids, can live in a nat pH environment of 4.x. That was my point. I am not talking about clown loaches can live in the bottom of ANY ocean <most oceans are salt anyway, so we should be talking about clown fish, not clown loaches...> anyway, often pH doesn't matter to aquaria fish. Most, if not all, can tolerate acidic pH as long as you are heavily planted and enough O2 is available to them. pH does not cause fish to stress...CO2 overdose and lack of O2 and water movement stress fish. When referring to a heavily planted tank, much of the regular fishkeeping rules go out of the window.
I mention a KH of 2 or more, because in a pm, someone had thought that 2 was "borderine: which it is not. Again, I am talking about a heavily planted, CO2 injected tank. Currently we have tanks running with an immeasurable KH <i.e.0 by standard hobbyist test kits> and a pH of 5.3. The Apistos are loving it, and spawning, the Rainbows are doing great, as is the schooling fish, corys, otos, Amanos and Cherrys, and the plants are algae-free and in need of pruning weekly.
Again, what brought this whole experiment on, was Amano's nature tanks, ADA Aquasoil and Co2 injection. The KH in those tanks set in right around zero...again, hobbyist test kits are not sensitive or sophisticated enough to detect a KH so for our purposes it is zero, but all water in nature has some buffering capacity. Anyway, back to Amano's tanks. by nature, Aquasoil is clay-based, and with my nat KH of 2.5 out of the tap, the addition of Aquasoil brings it down to zero. I DO NOT add baking soda or coral or any additives. Someone argued that plants don't grow better in softer water....without any experimentation to base that on. I defy you to fine a more uniform carpet of HC, better Tonina, Limnophila, thicker hairgrass...etc than that grown in Aquasoil, and it automatically makes your
water soft. People spread the "pH crash" terror so rapidly, that many were reluctant to even try this experiment becuse they were afraid of the low pH effect on fish. Again, pH doesn't kill fish...CO2 overdose and lack of O2 can kill fish. Solution? Keep your CO2 20-30 ppm. Watch your plants, look for pearling, observe the fish's behavior. With a proper fert schedult, good CO2, good watermovement, and heavy plant load, you will never have to use a test kit again.


twig:

You are talking GH not KH. The two are very different.
GH is a measure of the calcium and magnesium in your water and KH is a measure of the carbonate level. Your GH level is just fine. Don't do anything. I think the majority of this conversation is based on KH/pH relationship with regards to the injection of CO2 in the water column. As long as you have a measurable GH you are fine. 3-5 is fine. The argument here is whether a KH boost is needed to prevent the dreaded "pH crash" which is really something repeated without knowledge of what it really is or how it affects your environment.The answer IME is no.

Ted:
First, I really need to update those pics because MAN it looks completely different now...lol <for the better> That was more like...grow the plants, play with parms, decide how things are affected...etc. No real scape back then. I will do it soon. As for the plants, I will send them to you np, I will pm you my paypal, and wiil get your shipping address from that.

Eco complete is a good substrate, although it takes a few water changes to stabilize. Soilmaster is another good one.. You can't really go wrong with those. As for kitty litter, it does work for many, but I warn you, it is very light, so when you plant, it is a nightmare. If you decide later to change, nothing is worse then digging out bags of wet cat litter from your tank. I would advise against that. As for your present quartz, it will be fine. As long as you some sort of root tab for your swords and such, and get on a real fert schedule, you should have enough nourshment, coupled with the carbon, to maintain a planted tank. One step at a time. I advise that you do the light, CO2 and ferts at the same time to avoid an algal bloom.
 
Last edited:
fresh_newby said:
I am not talking about clown loaches can live in the bottom of ANY ocean <most oceans are salt anyway, so we should be talking about clown fish, not clown loaches...>

Ahh but thats my point. By your prior reasoning, since some fish do live at the bottom of the ocean then my loaches should be able to also. But different fish that come from different environments have adapted to those paramaters, and that does not mean that all can. I was nit picking a little since you said you were a scientist but your reasoning was a bit on shakey grounds. I have not done any research on how fish tolerate low ph since I had bought into the higher KH values so my ph doesnt often dip below 6.6 or so. But I have always believed as others do that they dont really read the ph value specifically, within reason - and its the within reason part that I am unsure of, meaning what is the low limit, and does the 'low limit' vary much throughout the species of fish in aquaria. Since I do inject CO2 and I am pretty sure my tap KH is very low, I might be down in this range if I stop doesing bicarb... so I will do it very gradually and monitor closely.


fresh_newby said:
With a proper fert schedult, good CO2, good watermovement, and heavy plant load, you will never have to use a test kit again.

That is music to my ears. I should be there soon (I hope) since I recently started dosing dry ferts following the EI, and upping my co2 a bit higher along with adding an additional powerhead too.
 
Hey loaches

misunderstanding because that wasn't my comparitor, but we move on...<by the way, I have a reticulated hill stream loach on the way...psyched..but I digress

The addition of a powerhead is key and your dosing schedule is great. How many wpg are you running now? Well you can't throw away thie kits yet...do me a favor....measure your kh out of the tap and measure your kh after a 50% water change next time...let me know what it is without bicarb alteration.
 
loaches r cool said:
Hey no prob. Although I think information like this should be shared to the entire community not just to one individual. If maintaining a certain KH value is relatively unimportant then people need to know. You are right though, djlen did come down on you pretty hard. I would say that was in resopnse to more than just one phrase though. We should never assume who people are either. We have no idea who people are and even if they say one thing they very well could be something else.
I didnt mean to confuse the issue by throwing a tiger lotus in my example.... so I will repeat with the plant removed: "And just because there are fish somewhere that live in a ph of 4.5 doesnt prove much. I mean fish live in very different environments, like say the bottom of the ocean for example. But that doesnt mean that my Clown Loaches will thrive at the bottom of the ocean." I am not debating that some or most fish cant survive in a ph of 4.5, just your reasoning that because there are certain fish that do in a certain place, that all can. A Clown loach cannot live in the ocean even though fish live there, similarly you probably can't put a And I didnt mean to play mod on you there... I was out of place. I just come from forums that are a lot more strict than AC is... a lot more.

I am curious though, you mention that "2 or more is FINE", yet alot of the information you reference suggests KH of .1 is ok. Is there a reason you are saying 2*KH, and not less? Or is it simply because thats what yours naturaly sits at, but less is also ok? I do beleive before I started dosing bicarb that my KH was less than 1*, but its been so long I forget exactly, would have to check my tap to see what it is.

Just to keep you up...here is a most recent update thread for you to read...

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g.../35622-our-low-kh-experiment-lets-update.html
 
thadius65


If Fresh doesn't have any plants you like I trim mine every 2 weeks. I have some fast growers but no CO2 injection, otherwise i'd be trimming weekly.

Here is a list of what I normally trim:

Hygro Ceylon and Sunset
CABOMBA CAROLINIANA
Myriophyllum mattogrossense
HYDROCOTYLE LEUCOCEPHALA-- (Brazillian Pennywort)
some type of rotala, narrow leaf and has red and green leaves


sometimes:
BACOPA CAROLINIANA
Creeping Jenny



If you'd like to see my tanks
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68550

It shows my tank from day 1 to the end of August. A few months in between pics.
 
Thanks for the plant offers.

Still awaiting my water parms and just finished a 50% water change. Will be checking numbers in the morning.

Wow this hobby can sure eat up the time.....Spent the past 1.5 days building a wood canopy that hinges and installed IceCap 430 with 2-36" and 1-48" VHO aquasun bulbs along with my moon LEDs. So now I have 2.5wpg total in my tank.

Thanks again for all the help/info.

Ted
 
Ted, would love to see some pics of your diy canopy...and yes it can take some time to do these things. Once you get the tough stuff done, I hear it becomes relaxing lolol
 
My goal was 3.5 watts per gallon and I got about as close as I can tonight. In addition to my 2-36" and 1-48" vho aquasuns (10k), I installed 2-30w (looks like a cinamon bun) and 2-20w Walmart (all lights of america) CF screw in bulbs. The interior of my canopy is white, so it appears I am getting additional light. So a total of 3.3WPG as of tonight.

MAN those CFs get hot compared to my VHOs. May need a fan in the canopy.

CO2 is next..... Must read on ferts some more. Algae is just waiting for me to slip up.....

Ted
 
AquariaCentral.com