Complete Newbie needs a bit of help

I think slow gradual changes in temp are okay. True, all fish have a high/low temp they prefer, and a slightly wider high/low that they can live in.

Most my tanks are at 74-78 F, but I have had some of them as high as 84 F for 3 wks to fight ich.
 
Ok heres another question,

I have noticed their is alot of information on fishless cycling but very little on fishy cycling. So anyway its been almost seven days since my cardinal tertras have been in the tank, and with testing the water paremeters each day for the last 7 days I have not noticed any ammonia levels or Nitrites levels or any spikes. Given that I have done a PWC into the 3rd day of the introduction of the fish and that my tank has a few plants- I can understand the reason in not seeing ammonia levels. So Should I be seeing anything at all? The LFS owner told me to add the fish in stages and build up the tank. He states every two and a half weeks buy some more fish but not two much

I would like to read up more on fishy cycling but are unable to find a good source of information. Anyone know?
 
If you have a similar test kit as I have, a low level of ammonia is hard to see. If you have driftwood in your water, it's even worse. I cannot really distinguish the low level colors. I hope you are better at that ;).

There's not much difference between a fishy cycle and a fishless one. The main difference is that you have to do water changes if the ammonia hits 0.25 ppm or the nitrite hits 1 ppm.

But with several plants in a big aquarium with only a very small bioload, you might as well never see any ammonia. Looks as if it's time for a few new fish :).
 
Yeah I do have a some driftwood in the aquarium and their is a plant actually growing on it. The fish a getting fed once each day so I would presume that whatever is not getting eaten is rotting and if their is any ammonia/Nitrite it is been taken up by the plants. Some algea is forming on the leaves of a plant- T5 Light is on for almost 14 hours to help the growth of the plants. Unfortunatly a bi product as I have been told is the quick formation of algae from T5 lighting.

I have the Fresh Lab Deluxe test kit from Red sea- so it is more than adequate for the job. I know what you mean with not being able to distinguish some of the low level colors. I to have the same problem.

I found this article: Courtesy of http://aquariumboard.com/forums/articles/26-cycling-tank-fw.html

How to Fishy cycle:
This method can be done in several ways, some are fine, others are not. The concept in it’s correct form is to set-up your tank, add a few small hardy fish, monitor ammonia and nitrite levels, do necessary water changes to prevent damage to your fish, and when the cycle is established then you add 1 or two small fish, test numbers for a few days (usually a week), and then add one or two more fish. So on and so forth until the full amount of planned stocking is achieved.
If you have a big enough tank and a small enough fish to start with you will not even see measurable amounts of ammonia and nitrite. The cycle is still starting and growing, but the levels of waste produced are not spiking high enough for detection. This is a good thing and does not delay the process. Eventually nitrates will show up and you will know the bacteria are there - BUT your bacteria colony is established only to handle the bio-load in the tank. So you have to increase bio-load very slowly and carefully to prevent spikes. Add a fish, give it time; add another, give it time. To heavily stock a 55g with smallish community fish can take quite a while. Of course as you get more and more fish you can add quicker. Think of this in percentages. Two tetras in a cycled tank and you add 2 more you have doubled the bio-load, then when you add 2 more again you have added 50% and so on. Don’t get too aggressive though, you will end up harming fish or doing water changes far too often.

Even when doing this in the most conservative manner daily testing is a must to ensure the safety of your fish. In my personal opinion, 0.5 ppm ammonia is the maximum allowable level. 0.25 ppm ammonia should be considered a serious concern. 0.5ppm nitrite is also the maximum for me. So if you cycle with fish plan to test a lot (tedious) and plan to do water changes each and every time the liquid in the test kits changes color. This is the downfall of the fishy cycle; you need to do water changes whenever your tank requires it, not when it fits your schedule. You need to do however much water changing it takes to protect your fish no matter how tired of water changing you become. You need to test a couple of times a day even if you are being conservative.

For those who already own their fish when they find out the bad news, just test and do water changes, endure the chores for 4-6 weeks, and learn from the experience. Some of the better members on these boards started here with an “I just bought 12 fish and four of them died” thread. They did what it took and came out of it with a lot of knowledge experience and information.

Temperature is dictated by the needs of the fish you wish to keep

Lighting: Fishy cycling does tend to result in fewer green water blooms than fishless cycling. The fish bring in the bacteria with them, and the ammonia levels don't go as high as seen in Fishless cycling. However, it still happens often enough to be a concern. Additionally your fish (In most cases) prefer shade and darkness, so its never a bad idea to leave the lights out when cycling via this method. It will help reduce the chance of green water, and additionally the shaded tank will help the fish stay calm in their new environment. As always people like to look at their new fish, and light is helpful in doing this. Just turn the lights on when you want to observe and leave them off otherwise.


I guess most of my questions are answerd here. According to this article it is possible to do the fishy cycle without doing barely any harm to the occupants. In my case I get to enjoy seeing the fish and analising their distinct mannerisms whilst building up the Aquarium to a substantial level.
 
Yes, with healthy plants and only a few fish, a fishy cycle in not too bad :).

Your light time is a little bit too long and promotes algae growth. For plants, anything between 8 and 12 hours is fine. Everything above 12 hours is just good for the algae. It also helps to interrupt the light cycle during the day, which for some reason doesn't hurt the plants but some of the algae. My timer is set for a three hours break in the middle of the day, so I can see the fish in the morning and in the evening, when I'm actually at home.
 
I must get myself a timer as I think I shall do the same. I will give it another week till I add some more fish also just to be extra cautious.
 
Buy a cheap mechanical timer. They are actually more reliable than the electronic one and do the job nicely :).
 
Ok due to some algae growth on the plants etc- I needed some Janitors. So I ended up get 2 X Siamese Algae eaters and 2 X FLying Foxs and 2 Borneo Suckers. So we will see what becomes of the tank after today.
 
I thought I give a small update on those Siamese Algae eaters. Ten minutes after they went into the tank they honed in on the algae like a heat seaking Missiles. Man it is really interesting to see them scoff away. Those two little Borneos have also got to work sucking away the tank walls like no tommorow. :dive:
 
you've already bought them.....but those algae guys were probably not the best course of action. Cutting back on your light and making sure you don't overfeed would have cleared up the algae. Those algae eaters are attempts to solve the effect, not the problem.

Since plants use their stored energy slower than Algae it is advisable to never go beyong 12 hours....with 8-10 being plenty of light for most plants. Assuming you have enough watts of light they will grow fine.

Just some hindsight thoughts that are too late to mean anything. Now that you have them....you must keep in mind they must continue to feed, and eating your algae growth will not always be a long term solution. Hopefully your system balances and algae growth will die off. Plus many "algae eaters" stop doing that job as they grow older. So buying discs for them is a future probablity.
 
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