First timer - SW Nano FOWLR
- Thread starter RobMac
- Start date
The short answer to the protein skimmer is no, it is not a requirement. However, as some have already mentioned, a small tank can be a bit mor challenging that a bigger tank. Dilution is the solution to pollution so having a larger water volume will give you a buffer that a smaller tank will not proivide. If you are not running a skimmer on a small tank you MUST be vigilant with your water change schedule. I would recommend weekly WC's removing about 10-20% and staying on a schedule.
There are ways to add water volume to a smaller tank. You can add a sump below your tank that will not only increase the overall volume of water to your system but you can also run it as a refugium to grow macro algaes, provide a place for a remote deep sand bed and addition live rock to boost your bio filtration. You can also accomplish this by adding a large HOB filter such as an AquaClear 70/110. If you do a serach for "aquaclear fuge" you will find a number of people who have benefitted from this. Graowing a macro algae such as chaeto will provide greater nutrient export and since the macro is taking up those nutients it will be in competition with the mico algaes that we all want to rid our tanks of. Having a refugium coupled with dedicated WC's will reduce the need for a skimmer but you certainly would still benefit from having one.
One last thing I will mention is decide what you want to keep and start there (unless you know you want multiple tanks). You may add the 2-3 small fish to your small FOWLR tank and realize that is it unless you do some upgrading to your lights so you can add corals. I guess what I'm saying is get somethng you can grow with. Small tanks fill up quick in this addictive hobby.
There are ways to add water volume to a smaller tank. You can add a sump below your tank that will not only increase the overall volume of water to your system but you can also run it as a refugium to grow macro algaes, provide a place for a remote deep sand bed and addition live rock to boost your bio filtration. You can also accomplish this by adding a large HOB filter such as an AquaClear 70/110. If you do a serach for "aquaclear fuge" you will find a number of people who have benefitted from this. Graowing a macro algae such as chaeto will provide greater nutrient export and since the macro is taking up those nutients it will be in competition with the mico algaes that we all want to rid our tanks of. Having a refugium coupled with dedicated WC's will reduce the need for a skimmer but you certainly would still benefit from having one.
One last thing I will mention is decide what you want to keep and start there (unless you know you want multiple tanks). You may add the 2-3 small fish to your small FOWLR tank and realize that is it unless you do some upgrading to your lights so you can add corals. I guess what I'm saying is get somethng you can grow with. Small tanks fill up quick in this addictive hobby.
I'm going to be fitting a sump to the tank but the water in and out is an issue. The only way I can feed the sump with the water from the tank is to use two pumps. One will go in the main tank drawing water out and feeding into the right side of the sump, the other exact same make of pump as the one in the main tank, will be placed in the sump on the left side as in the picture, feeding back into the aquarium. Up side, it eliminates the drilling of the tank for an over flow and increases the chaotic flow of current, downside, if one of the sump pumps packs up......major flooding:eek3:
Red Sea Prizm Protein Skimmer
Ok, I,ve just dived in at the deep end and ordered a Protein Skimmer. As the title says its the Red Sea Prizm Skimmer and should be more than efficiant to run on my tank. Here is what it says about this model skimmer :-
The development of the Prizm line of protein skimmers represents one of the most significant technological breakthroughs in protein extraction in decades. Utilizing an advanced new method of mixing the water and air and the development of an integrated 2-stage reaction chamber has reset the standard by which all skimmers will be judged.
The Prizm Skimmers consist of 4 basic components: Main Body, Collection Cup, Inlet Pipe and Pump. It is designed to either hang-on the aquarium or to be installed next to or inside a sump as the motor is fully submersible. The Prizm Pro combines an efficient 18-blade TurboJet injector together with Red Sea`s Patented convergent-divergent flow technology Reaction Chamber. Water and air are drawn into the skimmer through the Inlet Pipe by the 18 blade TurboJet impellor, which has been designed to generate the optimum ratio between the water/air flow rates, producing a constant stream of superfine air bubbles in a homogenous air/water mixture.
The unique reaction chamber is divided into 2 compartments consisting of a convergent upward flow first stage, followed by a divergent downward flow second stage. The decreasing cross-sectional area of the convergent first stage, causes great turbulence and extended contact time between the air bubbles and water. The increasing cross-sectional area of the divergent second stage causes the air bubbles to flow both co and counter current before arriving to the water surface. The combined action of the 2 compartments creates a protein loaded, stable foam at the throat of the skimmer, positively pushing dry foam up into the collection cup. The bubble-trap under the reaction chamber redirects any escaping air bubbles ensuring that bubble free water is returned to the aquarium via the cascade. In addition, the bubble-trap acts as a Mechanical filter by trapping small particulate matter not removed by the foam, thus keeping it out of the aquarium. The Flow Regulator located on the Inlet Pipe allows the skimmer’s performance to be optimized for all aquarium conditions.
Ok, I,ve just dived in at the deep end and ordered a Protein Skimmer. As the title says its the Red Sea Prizm Skimmer and should be more than efficiant to run on my tank. Here is what it says about this model skimmer :-
The development of the Prizm line of protein skimmers represents one of the most significant technological breakthroughs in protein extraction in decades. Utilizing an advanced new method of mixing the water and air and the development of an integrated 2-stage reaction chamber has reset the standard by which all skimmers will be judged.
The Prizm Skimmers consist of 4 basic components: Main Body, Collection Cup, Inlet Pipe and Pump. It is designed to either hang-on the aquarium or to be installed next to or inside a sump as the motor is fully submersible. The Prizm Pro combines an efficient 18-blade TurboJet injector together with Red Sea`s Patented convergent-divergent flow technology Reaction Chamber. Water and air are drawn into the skimmer through the Inlet Pipe by the 18 blade TurboJet impellor, which has been designed to generate the optimum ratio between the water/air flow rates, producing a constant stream of superfine air bubbles in a homogenous air/water mixture.
The unique reaction chamber is divided into 2 compartments consisting of a convergent upward flow first stage, followed by a divergent downward flow second stage. The decreasing cross-sectional area of the convergent first stage, causes great turbulence and extended contact time between the air bubbles and water. The increasing cross-sectional area of the divergent second stage causes the air bubbles to flow both co and counter current before arriving to the water surface. The combined action of the 2 compartments creates a protein loaded, stable foam at the throat of the skimmer, positively pushing dry foam up into the collection cup. The bubble-trap under the reaction chamber redirects any escaping air bubbles ensuring that bubble free water is returned to the aquarium via the cascade. In addition, the bubble-trap acts as a Mechanical filter by trapping small particulate matter not removed by the foam, thus keeping it out of the aquarium. The Flow Regulator located on the Inlet Pipe allows the skimmer’s performance to be optimized for all aquarium conditions.
I don’t know a lot about the Red Sea skimmers but it looks rather large. Many reefers that own the Red Sea max (AIO tank) end up swapping their skimmers out for a Tunze 9002 skimmer. This is an internal skimmer which you may not want because it will take up space in your display. A lot of people think highly of these skimmers.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?action=view&idProduct=AC3411&idCategory=FIPSHO&category=Hang_On_Skimmers-Protein_Skimmers-Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies&vendor=&child=AC3431
You don’t need a crazy large skimmer since you will only have a couple fish. I guess it will allow you to be less stringent with your WC’s
Also, there are refugiums like these that are very nice and only need 1 pump. Again, you can also make a fuge out of a HOB filter such as an AquaClear.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3727+3618&pcatid=3618
Another fuge option is an in-tank version of the above fuge. However, unlike the above, it will take up some of you display space.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3727+3621&pcatid=3621
Sounds like you are doing your reseach and above all being patient. I’m sure whatever you choose will work and figuring out what works and what doesn’t is part of the hobby. Everyone has a different experience and there is no silver bullet.
Edit: Forgot to mention that if you are considering a below tank fuge you could get an overflow box instead of the two pump method (keep in mind that you water will exit you display much faster than it returns due to head loss so you will need to consider that when picking out pumps). the overflow box does the same thing that a drilled tank does except it hangs over the back of the tank. These boxes can be a little noisey though.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?action=view&idProduct=AC3411&idCategory=FIPSHO&category=Hang_On_Skimmers-Protein_Skimmers-Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies&vendor=&child=AC3431
You don’t need a crazy large skimmer since you will only have a couple fish. I guess it will allow you to be less stringent with your WC’s
Also, there are refugiums like these that are very nice and only need 1 pump. Again, you can also make a fuge out of a HOB filter such as an AquaClear.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3727+3618&pcatid=3618
Another fuge option is an in-tank version of the above fuge. However, unlike the above, it will take up some of you display space.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3727+3621&pcatid=3621
Sounds like you are doing your reseach and above all being patient. I’m sure whatever you choose will work and figuring out what works and what doesn’t is part of the hobby. Everyone has a different experience and there is no silver bullet.
Edit: Forgot to mention that if you are considering a below tank fuge you could get an overflow box instead of the two pump method (keep in mind that you water will exit you display much faster than it returns due to head loss so you will need to consider that when picking out pumps). the overflow box does the same thing that a drilled tank does except it hangs over the back of the tank. These boxes can be a little noisey though.
Long term (even short term) viability of a two pump system is 0.
Basically, at some point, one of the pumps is going to lose slightly more efficiency than the other for whatever reason (residue buildup most likely) and it is going to flood.
In fact, the likelihood that they are both identical even out of the box is minute. Your basically betting that they are 100% identical. Even a flow difference of .001 psi is going to eventually cause an overflow.
Your better off with a HOB or drilling.
Basically, at some point, one of the pumps is going to lose slightly more efficiency than the other for whatever reason (residue buildup most likely) and it is going to flood.
In fact, the likelihood that they are both identical even out of the box is minute. Your basically betting that they are 100% identical. Even a flow difference of .001 psi is going to eventually cause an overflow.
Your better off with a HOB or drilling.
It's not that big actually, in fact it is rather compact in size compared to the more big brother types on the market and I think it is aimed for the Aquarist with a smaller tank than usual but the dimensions are
34cm high x 6cm deep x 23cm wide.
That is actually smaller than my tank and will sit on the back of the tank very nicely I think but time will tell. I'm sure once I get it a full review on the skimmer will follow but we are gonna have to wait a couple of weeks at the most till it arrives but I'm in no rush.
To be honest I've been trying to think my way around this all night while at work but your right, it's just not a viable system to use and will have to think other ways of getting around it. Greech's idea seems the way to go I think without creating to much hassle of using an over flow box.
Water changing
Now, this you may find bizarre or not as the case may be.
Regarding water changing I have a seperate tank that holds 15 litres of water. I fill it with 10 litres and heat it up to the same temperature as my aquarium with a seperate water heater I have, I then balance the chemistry levels over a period of a week with the salt added of coarse, to the same levels of the aquarium once again and when all is near enough equal, I remove 10 litres from the aquarium and replace it with the water I prepped in the 15 litre tank. Now is this a rather long way of doing a water change or do you feel it is a good way of doing it, ensuring that the water change levels are equal so not to disturb the cycle of the tank and eventually when introduced, the fish? :help:
Now, this you may find bizarre or not as the case may be.
Regarding water changing I have a seperate tank that holds 15 litres of water. I fill it with 10 litres and heat it up to the same temperature as my aquarium with a seperate water heater I have, I then balance the chemistry levels over a period of a week with the salt added of coarse, to the same levels of the aquarium once again and when all is near enough equal, I remove 10 litres from the aquarium and replace it with the water I prepped in the 15 litre tank. Now is this a rather long way of doing a water change or do you feel it is a good way of doing it, ensuring that the water change levels are equal so not to disturb the cycle of the tank and eventually when introduced, the fish? :help:
I myself have never gone to that extreme to mix my water and I don't recall hearing/reading anyone else going that far either. That is not to say it is not a good idea or that you should not. I don't see any harm in what you are proposing, just that I don't think it is necessary. Some people mix larger batches of water at one time so they don;t have to go through the mixing process every week/two weeks. If you choose to mix your water over a weeks time or you decide to make a larger batch, make sure it is constantly mixed with a powerhead. Calcium can precipitate if the water is left stagnant rendering your new water pretty much useless. I would also have a lid on your mixing container to reduce evaporation (which will increase your salinity BTW) and keep dusst and debris out.
Most reefers mix their water 24-hours or so in advance. I mix my water on Friday and do my WC's on Saturday. I have even mixed my water for only a couple of hours before a WC with no apparent ill effects. Your main concern is that your SG and temperature are in tune with your display at the time of your WC. As long as you are using a fairly consistent supply of water, your pH should never really need to be buffered. Not saying you are making this complicated but sometimes simplicity is the best course to take.
Most reefers mix their water 24-hours or so in advance. I mix my water on Friday and do my WC's on Saturday. I have even mixed my water for only a couple of hours before a WC with no apparent ill effects. Your main concern is that your SG and temperature are in tune with your display at the time of your WC. As long as you are using a fairly consistent supply of water, your pH should never really need to be buffered. Not saying you are making this complicated but sometimes simplicity is the best course to take.
