How do you acclimate or not? Why?

[Cerianthus]

I meant detox of NH3/NO2 in fish upon possible prolonged exposures to sub-lethal levels?

No need to detox NH3 in bag water if pH is close or slightly ower than 7.0, imo and ususally they are in the f/w, brackish bag. Just make sure one has similar water to bag water well prepared before arrival. I think I mentioned before. When dripping new water, make sure to drain on other end of container until no NH3 is present. Then you could try acclimating to other desired pH levels at one's discretion.

There are ways to lower the toxicity of any possible NO2 in the bag water which I doubt it is high, if any.

Like I said, I usually dont go against what's not broken. Why suggest unnecessary fixing when all are well?
Mostly suggestions as per one's problems/losses mentioned. Perhaps this suggestions could be improvements for some fish keepers.

If it does, all are well.
If not, c'est la vie!

 

[msjinkzd]

the bag water is almost alwasy below 7.0 upon opening it, once the oxygen hits the water, it climbs up. The reason I add the prime is because ammonia toxicity increases exponentially based on pH/hardness. As the ammonia builds in a bag, the pH is driven down. Once the oxygen is reintroduced, it starts climbing back up. I typically just try to detox then get them out of that water. The minimum numbers I have per bag as an importer is usually 200 fish. My thought is that getting them out of that toxic environment as fast as possible is the best course of action.

When buying from abreeder where things are bagged more "responsibly" I do things quite different.

I find that most of the damage from shipping doesn't show up immediately, ,but is seen the next 2-4 days.

As far as what I do in the tanks- I try to keep things as neutral as possible initially. This reduces any toxicity in the water. I also tend to add a lot of almond leaves which have natural properties to soothe the fish (sort of like water conditioners which are not required as I have well water). I also keep pretty high aeration and vary the water depth depending on wild caught/domestic/farmed and normal collection depth.

 

[67chevelle]

I find that most of the damage from shipping doesn't show up immediately, ,but is seen the next 2-4 days.

That's interesting. What appears to have happened to the ones that show damage? Problems from ammonia?

I honestly don't mean to sound crass or rude, but how much effort to you put forth to save the sick ones? I would think when you are dealing with as many fish as you do, euthanasia would be the most humane thing to do.

 

[Cerianthus]

That's interesting. What appears to have happened to the ones that show damage? Problems from ammonia?

I honestly don't mean to sound crass or rude, but how much effort to you put forth to save the sick ones? I would think when you are dealing with as many fish as you do, euthanasia would be the most humane thing to do.

As painful as it is, sometimes whole bag.

 

[Cerianthus]

the bag water is almost alwasy below 7.0 upon opening it, once the oxygen hits the water, it climbs up. The reason I add the prime is because ammonia toxicity increases exponentially based on pH/hardness. As the ammonia builds in a bag, the pH is driven down. Once the oxygen is reintroduced, it starts climbing back up. I typically just try to detox then get them out of that water. The minimum numbers I have per bag as an importer is usually 200 fish. My thought is that getting them out of that toxic environment as fast as possible is the best course of action.

When buying from abreeder where things are bagged more "responsibly" I do things quite different.

I find that most of the damage from shipping doesn't show up immediately, ,but is seen the next 2-4 days.

As far as what I do in the tanks- I try to keep things as neutral as possible initially. This reduces any toxicity in the water. I also tend to add a lot of almond leaves which have natural properties to soothe the fish (sort of like water conditioners which are not required as I have well water). I also keep pretty high aeration and vary the water depth depending on wild caught/domestic/farmed and normal collection depth.

Perhaps you meant loss of CO2, especially when aerated upon opening of bag which will raise pH of water as CO2 accumulated during shipment is driven out to reach equilibrium with atmosphere.
Water chemsitry is lot more complex than most think but I am not gonna go in detail as I may lose more hairs trying to remember (if I can remember all) all the details such as autoionization of 2NH3 to form NH4+ and NH2- & reaction b/n NH3 + O2 yielding nitric acid which will lower pH, and/or reaction mechanisms and factors which will influence direction of reactions,etc, etc.

My point is to eliminate NH3/NO2 in bag water via drip/drain at the same time, using close to neutral new water as is bag water rather than additives. Additives are only temporary as I think Prime may help form NH4+ which is very weak bond and can be converted back to NH3 when pH is higher than 7.4.
Unfortunately our test kit can not diffrentiate NH4+ from NH3 since both forms are registered.

I believe we discussed some info on acclimation on shipped fish about yr ago.

Like I said, whatever works for you, stick to it but there are always room for improvements when one keep searching for more info such as how to detox fish already exposed to sub-lethal level of NH3/NO2.

Upon researching, not thru hobby book though, you should be able to learn quite a bit on the subjedct of fish's anatomy/physiology/toxicology/parasitology, etc., etc., as I am continuously learning something new which will be beneficial to my understanding of fish keeping & most of all, my fishes...

Good Night!

 

[vanillaXtiffy]

At work I drip, at home I float, depending on the temp. Like if I'm just getting a fish from petsmart and it's hot out then I'm gonna be home before they get cold. But for a fish store trip, there's gonna be a huge temp difference, summer or winter.

 

[Red_Terror]

Here is a question... If you bought some stocks online from a breeder which has his/her own set of acclimating procedure, would you follow their instructions or would you still use your own? Some breeder stresses that the list of procedure must be followed or else, their guarantee would be voided. What would you guys do?

 

[SubRosa]

The reason for adding Prime is not to detoxify the ammonia in the bag water. It's to detoxify the ammonia in the fishes' tissue that accumulates from being in the bag water.

 

[msjinkzd]

That's interesting. What appears to have happened to the ones that show damage? Problems from ammonia?

I honestly don't mean to sound crass or rude, but how much effort to you put forth to save the sick ones? I would think when you are dealing with as many fish as you do, euthanasia would be the most humane thing to do.

Sometime damaged fins, sometimes damaged/reddened gills.

I actually don't typically euthanize unless its something SUPER contagious that would put my whole fishroom at risk or a REALLY sick singular fish.

I just recently treated all those rams for hemorraghic septicemia, then ich.

I almost always treat new wild arrivals with flubendazole.

 

[msjinkzd]

Here is a question... If you bought some stocks online from a breeder which has his/her own set of acclimating procedure, would you follow their instructions or would you still use your own? Some breeder stresses that the list of procedure must be followed or else, their guarantee would be voided. What would you guys do?

I guess it would depend on how they are trying to get you to acclimate. Probalby would follow it especially if it was for expensive fish.