Let’s Talk Fertilizer & Schedule ( again)

Gee, 2 pages since last night.

I love the new crypts. Don't be surprised if some of the leaves "melt", some do it more than others. It's crypt version of transplant pouting. Just remove any mushy leaves & let them alone. They will recover! Just leave the other plants alone for now while you're busy medicating. & no, the salt in the med. will not hurt the plants for the treatment duration. In your latest pic I see a spot in the middle of 1 ram forehead & a faded? looking spot above an eye on the other. Could just be where ich was but keep an eye in those.

I have to disagree with tl on the co2 thing a bit (yeah, we often do things different, lol). You're not injecting co2 or even using Excel so the tank gets co2 from the atmosphere. Surface movement can only help with that. Keep an eye on your KH, I have soft water too but maybe not as soft as yours. I aim for say, 50+ ppm as a minimum (or 3+ GDH, I forget which the API tests in). If you need to raise it a bit, a pinch of baking soda is the cheap & easy way. But you want to keep the level fairly consistent or some algae may get too happy. You may need to increase it as the plants grow. That was 1 of the things I had to learn when moving from hardwater areas to soft.

You also want a fairly consistent nitrate level or, well, different algae can be issues. As you get new stem plant growth you should plan to pinch or snip off the pretty top 3 inches & replant them. & either leave the "stumps" & hope they grow or remove them. You've got lots of plants now, give them a chance to see how they grow for you.

The only thing I'm missing from your tank is some reddish color plants. After the meds & how your plants are doing, think about a crypt wendtii red or "mi oya" just for a change of pace...
 
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Just to muddy the waters about CO2.

There's also the question of the CO2 produced by fish too.


So sometimes you will have more in the water without surface agitation, sometimes with. So the answer could be either.

Personally I wouldn't care either way... But I am not a fan of surface agitation of any kind wherever possible... Do whatever you like I think the plants will be fine either way.
 
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I am so excited to learn as I go, I am finding I may have raised my temp a little higher than the older fish residents would have liked. But nothing that I am thinking I need to be super worried about right now. ( I am using two presets and it would be simpler with one adjustable but on to more important things. ) The ich spots definitely seem to be continuing their cycle of dropping off, I am gonna keep dosing, I don’t see any flashing or other fish with spots so I think we’re on the right track. I did clip the tops of some new stems and once I let things go I am looking forward to tuning in the trimming process and figuring out what works and what doesn’t. It’s lights out time so I ran some tests. I didn’t even bother with nitrate nitrite or ammonia tonight it’s been so consistent. Here are my high PH GH and KH ( full disclosure I haven’t ran GH KH before ) I truly appreciate you guys!!

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Well, good thoughts dougall. This is the first I think I've seen of fish producing co2, muddy waters indeed.

I am a fan of not just of surface but all over water movement for my oxygenation loving loaches. To each their own. For me happy loaches over happy plants, or maybe it should be over "needy" plants, lol.
 
Oh, I see you were posting, Kim, as I was. The "drops" equal GDH so your water (right now anyway) is fine as far as GH & KH goes. For ppm multiply by 17.9. You don't need to worry about either or add baking soda or anything. pH is harder to judge with your pic. since part is in the light & part not. Have you tried the lower pH test too?
 
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Just to muddy the waters about CO2.

There's also the question of the CO2 produced by fish too.
So sometimes you will have more in the water without surface agitation, sometimes with. So the answer could be either.

This is exactly what I meant. Testing will show what is better, more CO2 will be better for the plants. It depends on many factors, I have some tanks with surface agitation and some without for best plant growth. It does make a difference.
Not sure what to make from the readings, is the pH ±7,8? the number of drops for the KH can either mean 2 or 4 degrees?
Either way it shows you have very little CO2 available for the plants. But if you can't put the outlet of the filter under water it's kind of a moot point.
 
Oh, I see you were posting, Kim, as I was. The "drops" equal GDH so your water (right now anyway) is fine as far as GH & KH goes. For ppm multiply by 17.9. You don't need to worry about either or add baking soda or anything. pH is harder to judge with your pic. since part is in the light & part not. Have you tried the lower pH test too?
So the three things I tested for tonight. Are 3 things I have never adjusted or done anything with. The PH I have tested in aquariums past but only to know when I made a fish purchases so I didn’t waste money on fish that didn’t do well. I had dumped and rinsed the tubes but hadn’t dumped the measuring cup with tank water. I ran it again and took a better pic.

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And here is the other page of instructions I meant to include about the drops ( I apologize)

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This is exactly what I meant. Testing will show what is better, more CO2 will be better for the plants. It depends on many factors, I have some tanks with surface agitation and some without for best plant growth. It does make a difference.
Not sure what to make from the readings, is the pH ±7,8? the number of drops for the KH can either mean 2 or 4 degrees?
Either way it shows you have very little CO2 available for the plants. But if you can't put the outlet of the filter under water it's kind of a moot point.
I do have a modified pump from the fluval flex that I had in here prior to the hob and it did have that Piece that I fixed to well to what I assumed was water movement and circulation while I was running 2 sponges. ( is that kinda like what your talking ?) I did make that long tube shorter but it’s no longer in the tank. ( photo attached )

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