DO NOT seal the valves open unless you have a leak like I did. The purpose of the valve is to be able to close them when servicing them to prevent the water from the hoses to siphon back out. Having sealed one of the valves open, it makes maintenance a bit more complicated for me.
Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
I'm confused about performing maintenance on this filter. When you want to clean the media how do you do it without dumping water everywhere when you open the cover? I closed the inlet valve to see if it would pump some water out of the canister itself but when I closed the inlet the outlet stopped as well.
What I do is close the inlet valve, disconnect the inlet valve, let the pump remove some of the water from the filter, close the outlet valve then unplug the filter. The quicker you're able to go through these steps, the less stress you're putting on the pump.
The reason it's not working for you is because the water from the filter that you're trying to pump out needs to be replaced with something. When the filter is in normal operation the water from the filter is simply replaced with water from the tank. When you shut the inlet valve, you're restricting the filter from receiving anything to replace the filter water so it won't be able to pump anymore. However, when you remove the inlet valve after closing it then the filter water can then be replaced with air. Hope that makes sense to you.
The reason it's not working for you is because the water from the filter that you're trying to pump out needs to be replaced with something. When the filter is in normal operation the water from the filter is simply replaced with water from the tank. When you shut the inlet valve, you're restricting the filter from receiving anything to replace the filter water so it won't be able to pump anymore. However, when you remove the inlet valve after closing it then the filter water can then be replaced with air. Hope that makes sense to you.
I just bought one of these filters. Mine came with black flex plastic hose though. Then I don't know if I broke the outlet elbow or if it came that way but for now I just stuffed a piece of 1/2 ID hose in it and the pump (probably reducing the flow) but it works great for a quick fix. (If I broke it that thing breaks too easy). But I'd like to replace it and not sure where to order one or if there is a better fix. Also wanting to get more sponge, where is the best place to get this stuff? Only mods so far are the 1/4 plywood ring and I cut the end of the return nozzle, when I get more sponge filters I will do that mod also. Mine is on a 55g with 3 African clawed Frogs and 2 more growing up in my 29g to be added to the 55g.
Its the same with the FX5, no self pump out procedures either but it works great and kills the notion of lugging a heavy canister. My step-by-step procedures are the same for both the FX5 and CFS500 and although they may seem long in reality once you have practiced the steps they happen pretty fast in secession.
(1) with the filter running support the valve body and port while with the other hand gently apply rocking pressure torque to each gate valve to brake it loose from its long time seated ON position slightly toward OFF then back to ON. The idea is to crack the valve loose gently in preparation for their quick maneuvering to the full ON & OFF position. Also note the location of the AC plug outlet to make it handy to unplug or the handy location of the screw the cord at the base of the canister for later use to kill power.
(2) With the filter still running smartly but not hurriedly grasp and support the IN-FLOW valve and port and with the other hand turn the IN-FLOW valve to full OFF then press its detach button and lift off the IN-FLOW valve completely letting it dangle.
(3) You will hear the canister being pumped out of water until it gurgles or hisses and at that point you want to shut the OUT-FLOW valve to OFF positions and then unplug the canister AC plug from the wall or unscrew the cord at the base, just make sure you kill power to stop the pump AFTER you have shut the OUT-FLOW valve to OFF.
(4) At this point residual water in the sponge and filter media is collecting at the bottom of the canister so wait 3 minutes and then in exact sequence smartly turn the power to the pump back on and immediately open re-open the OUT-FLOW valve which will pump out the remaining water and the moment you hear the water pump out with air hissing/gurgling, immediately turn the OUT-FLOW valve back to OFF and unplug the power (on the FX5 I do this 3 times to almost empty the canister). Now you can disconnect the OUT-Flow hose and remove the canister for servicing.
(5) After servicing ready to re-install simply connect the IN-FLOW valve first and only and with the OUT-Flow valve NOT connected, crack open the IN-FLOW valve that is primed full of water to 1/3 open and let water fill the canister, listening at the OUT-FLOW port-hole as air leaves for the tell-tale sound of filling up almost, then shut the IN-FLOW valve back off.
(6) Now reconnect the OUT-FLOW valve and open both valves fully, any residual air will flow out of the OUT-FLOW, then and only then turn the power back on and your filter is up and running for another few months.
Now isn't that better then struggling with a water filled Top lid-motor design?
**OH one important note mostly for the FX5, make sure your tanks has enough top-off room for the water pump out, this means on a 100 gallon about 1.5 inches and on the CFS500 for 50 gallon about the same. I have never over-flowed my tanks doing this procedure but came close for not remembering to check LOL.
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The last post above was just intended to provide a way and show that only these filters are capable of sustained self draining under tank pressure testifying to there superior flow capabilities, even when the filter is dirty, something no top-lid motor deign canister is capable of.
I just pulled the trigger and received my CFS 500 yesterday. I'll be using it for a heavily stocked all male cichlid hap&peacock 125 gallon display. My Rena xp3 is okay, but the flow is so low.
Gotta say, the lid and the bucket feel pretty heavy duty plastic materials. The hoses, and output and input tubes feels cheap and is thin....mostlikely i 'll replace these in the future.
The CFS 500 now has the cord routed through the top of the lid (my friend's older model has the cord routed through the side of the can). So now it is conceivable to use a more powerful pump. Only issue is how to wrap the power cord through the "rubber" plug of the top lid. It appears that the rubber plug is molded around the cord (it doesn't come apart unless you cut it apart).
Gotta say, the lid and the bucket feel pretty heavy duty plastic materials. The hoses, and output and input tubes feels cheap and is thin....mostlikely i 'll replace these in the future.
The CFS 500 now has the cord routed through the top of the lid (my friend's older model has the cord routed through the side of the can). So now it is conceivable to use a more powerful pump. Only issue is how to wrap the power cord through the "rubber" plug of the top lid. It appears that the rubber plug is molded around the cord (it doesn't come apart unless you cut it apart).
