I have trouble siphoning low tanks. Can you go at least a foot off the floor (or other drainage point)? It's a real PITA to try to siphon really low tanks, although they are more stable stacked. Just something to keep in mind...
Ahhh, didn't think of that. With the 10g's that shouldn't be a problem. I had planned originally for the stands to be 30" high, which would give me 22" of space from top to bottom inside. Then I realized that wouldn't work with the 30g since it is 16.5" high. So I figured I'd make that one 32" giving 24". The 55g's are 22" tall as it is so on top of a stand that is 32" I could go a couple more inches, but I don't want to go much more than that otherwise I'm going to be using a step stool to do water changes LOL! Crud, need to recalculate things I guess....any suggestions?
When you do put it together use half lap joints for extra support. Takes a bit more time but the results are well worth it. Don't use pressure treated.
I was making an assumption that you're using 2 x 4 framework. If so use the lap joints for the framework. I made my shop bench (I'm an avid woodworker) and it really adds incredible strength because your horizontal members are actually resting on something instead of just a plain butt/screwed joint. Another thing I recommend is using a polyurethane glue.
I was making an assumption that you're using 2 x 4 framework. If so use the lap joints for the framework. I made my shop bench (I'm an avid woodworker) and it really adds incredible strength because your horizontal members are actually resting on something instead of just a plain butt/screwed joint. Another thing I recommend is using a polyurethane glue.
Well, I was thinking to use 4 x 4's for the frame and 2 x 4's for the shelf just to me sure the frame was strong enough. Here is what I had planned....
4 x 4, 4" angle brackets, 8" screws, along with carpenters glue for the frame.
2 x 4, angel brackets, 4" screws, along with carpenters glue for the shelf.
1/2-3/4" boards, 2"nails and carpenters glue for the top and shelf.
I haven't bought the stuff yet, since when I got there I realized I hadn't thought about the fact the 30 gal is actually 1" wider then the 55. I can make changes to my plan...no problem there. Is the polyurethane glue stronger/better?
Use the 4 x for your corners. Lap in the 2x standing on the edge. This gives the 2x a place to sit on. You won't need the angles at all. Can't beat poly glue and screws for this type of job. I will look and see if I can do/get a line drawing of what I mean.
Yes. The 2x on edge have enough strength to hold the tank. And remember the tank really doesn't fully sit on the 2x. Add plywood on top with some type of insulation or padding if you desire. For the bottom shelf the design is the same you're just making a lap joint in the middle of the 4x. Principle is the same. I wouldn't put the bottom shelf straight on the floor but that's your choice.
As an aside if you want even more solidity use carriage bolts with nuts drilled all the way through.
Make the stand wide enough to fit the wide tank and use the ledge created by the narrow tank as a mini shelf for food and stuff. One other thing I would do is use plywood on the sides or the back. It adds tons of strength and the stand won't ever rack. If it is something that will show and you want it to look nice you can put 1/4" oak or 3/4" oak plywood and stain/paint it for a finished look. You can even add a face frame and doors.
I made my workbench that holds my radial arm saw with lapped joints. I used all 2x however with a true half lap joint. The front rail, since it carries all the weight, was half lapped with the 2x corner and the side was screwed to the face of the corner 2x and into the end grain of the face 2x. Added a hardboard back mostly to keep sawdust out of the draws. Even something as frail as hardboard adds a lot of racking strength. Sucker is 12 feet long and strong as all getout.
