Welcome to the Brackish Forums! Puffer threads go in this forum, as new threads

[reiverix]

I was reading that figure 8 live in freshwater but live longer and are less likely to get sick in brackish.

As far as I know, figures 8s are strictly brackish only.

So how much salt is necessary. I have no way to measure it. I looked at some salt water meters and they do not go low enough to read brackish.

You can get hydrometers that read from zero salinity upwards. I have one of those swing arm ones. I keep my tank at a SG of 1.005 (it has a figure 8 and two knight gobies). If you can get a refractometer, all the better, but you will need to know the salinity of the tank water.

The knight goby appears have lots of energy and does alot of swimming up and down the side of tank. Is this normal behavior or could he be stressed.

I've found knight gobies to be quite hyperactive. As long as it's looks healthy, is eating properly and the water parameters are good, I'd say it's acting normal.

I also have a otto in there I have read that these can live with a puffer and they do not even notice each other in the tank. I did a little reading on ottos and it says they do not like salt in there water. any suggestions.

Yes, find a new home for it. Otos won't tolerate the salt for long. They can be kept with freshwater dwarf puffers with some success but won't survive in brackish.

 

[ghostsaw]

puffer

well my 25 gal tank has been up for 6 months now and all is well the puffer is doin good . I have a big piece of driftwood rocks and java moss. I added about 2 tbsp of sea salt when I set it up. I haven't really down a big water change just added a little here and there did a 25 percent water change once. the tank is rather clear except for a little algae. I also have a knight goby in the tank who is rather funny to watch he is fat and hides alot but comes out when its feeding time. I also have 2 bumble bee gobies in there which appear to be doing good. Blood worms and shrimp pellets are the only thing i can find that the puffer will eat. I am curious if anyone knows if this is sufficent to wear the puffers teeth down as I am not sure how big they should be. I wanted to start a snail tank but never got around to it...

 

[RTR]

Without snails or equally crunchy food, your puffer is doomed without routine dental surgery.

What iis the tank pH and KH?

 

[ghostsaw]

my ph is 7.6 as far as I can tell I cannot find my high ph test kit
the kh is 71.9

 

[RTR]

The pH is too low, the KH is too low as well, That does not sound like BW to me.

What is the specific gravity?

 

[ghostsaw]

I do not have a hydrometer at this time I need to order one. The ones they have at the local petstore are for saltwater tanks and do not go low enough for brackish. I was reading that figure 8's are not brackish. I have also read that they mite travel back and forth from brackish to fresh. Got any clues for me? I looked at your tanks online you got a really nice set-up. I only got 3 tanks myself. I got a 20 gal long with cory cats, neons and blue rams. the cory cats breed every now and then. I also got a 55 gal with 3 silver dollars corycats and a rapheal catfish.

 

[Roan Art]

I do not have a hydrometer at this time I need to order one. The ones they have at the local petstore are for saltwater tanks and do not go low enough for brackish. I was reading that figure 8's are not brackish. I have also read that they mite travel back and forth from brackish to fresh. Got any clues for me? . ..

RTR is one of *the* experts on pufferfish. If he says they are brackish, they are brackish. I wouldn't even question it or try to keep them in FW.

My 2 Cents
Roan

 

[RTR]

If you want them to live long and healthy lives, keep them in light brackish water (~1.005+/-) where they will make the mid to upper teens. In FW they will not make ten years, frequently not half of that. If you don't want to, or cannot, keep them properly, select another fish to keep that you can keep properly. There is no issue with not being able to meet any given fish's requirements (for F-8s - light BW w/marine mix, high stable pH, minimum 15 gallons for this fish alone, crunchy foods, high pH and low nitrate, no ammonia or nitrite ever, all in a visually complex setup), but I have major issues with folks who know how it should be done and elect not to handle the fish properly - that is a bad thing IMHO.

 

[ghostsaw]

Thanks for the input. I have just heard so many conflicting things about figure 8's and was not sure which to go by. My puffer appears to be doing very good so I just assumed all was well. I will take your advice and change the set-up. When I add more salt I know I have to add it in a seperate container but should I gradually add it to the tank and over how long a period of time?

 

[RTR]

Changing the specific gravity by no more than 0.002 per week is good. That is to protect/allow the bacteria of the nitrogen cycle to adapt to the higher salinity water. The bacteria are much more delicate than the F-8, but if they get killed off, the F-8 will be damaged by the ammonia and nitrite, so protecting the bacteria in the end protects the fish. Good luck with the changes - F-8s are among my favorite fish, and are as long lived as many cichlids.