Ongoing battle with rescued Discus

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shawnhu

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Well You would likely still need at least a 20H to 29 gallon for the pair to breed in. Once you have fry, the 55 would be a great grow out tank, assuming that your friend wants that BIG responsibility. Grow out from smaller than penny size is not that easy. Lots of water changes and feedings!

I'm not saying that a pair could not actually produce a fry bearing spawn in your tank, it's just not recommended especially in a bare bottom tank. IMO planted tanks or large (100+ gallon) tanks that offer seperation and privacy to breeding pairs typicall work best especially with other discus in the same tank. Like I said above, breeding is usually done in bare bottom 20 to 29 gallon (or bigger) tanks with just the pair. I guess you'll just have to see what happens! I've never done that in your size tank before.

Best wishes!
My appologies, I must have failed to mention I have a 20H sitting around in storage(in my room against a wall). It's empty. I wouldn't attempt breeding them with other discus around.
 

shawnhu

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I have to disagree with ingested meds method in this case. He has multiple sick fish in the tank. I would med the whole tank and kill the parasites as fast as possible to get to the water changes sooner than later. The faster the fish are healthy the less chance they will be reinfected regardless of parasites present in the tank. The bullied or stressed discus are the ones that usually succumb to sickness. I will have to check this discussion over on Simply to see what some of them think in this case.
Imo only of course. I recently had the same problem with my discus and found the prazipro then fizz tabs method was cheap, quick and easy to do.
My fish made a great turn around.
I'm not against treating as your recommendation, but for some reason, my gut tells me that treating for internal is a much more logical way to approach this. No matter how much I treat the water, the internals would still be there, breeding up a storm, pooping out the eggs, and infecting other fish while they ingest it. If I'm able to attack the internals first, purge them of the infestations internally, then I can handle the water seperatly through water changes, and medicated baths. PP also comes to mind to nuke all types of parasites in the water, without having to go through the fuss of choosing different meds for different parasites.

Again, I'm open to different strategies on going about this, which is why I posted. It's my hopes that this thread would help others facing similar challenges and goals as myself.
 

shawnhu

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I suppose this is like the calm, before the storm. It's been quiet for these few days, still treating them on and off with the Jungle med foods, but everytime they go on that, the little ones seems to suffer the most. Something needs to be done.

At the moment, I have many different foods on hand, and several meds. I have Praziquantel, Metronidazole, and Fenbendazole in pure powder form. I also have an array of Over-The-Counter meds that are commonly sold at LFS.

I'd like to hear what some of you think is the best medicating regiment through food, and the concentrations that should be for eat type of meds. Do you think it's necessary to also use Geletin to bind the meds to the food?
 

pinkertd

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Hi Shawn,
Wish I could help you but I don't know what to tell you. I don't personally feel that medicated foods is the best way to deal with discus with parasites. It seems to take to long. It will soon be 2 months since you purchased these fish. That's a long time to be exposed to meds, the meds drag them down too. At this point, what do you believe they still have going on as far as parasites?
 

shawnhu

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Hi Debbi,

They just broke 2 months back end of Feb. I started treating them on and off about a month ago. I must say, they're doing A LOT better now. There's 2 of the smaller guys that are not doing so well though, one in particular is a favorite, he's the smallest, and also one of the first to eat when I first got them.

The small guy is maybe only 1.5 inch, and he was active when I got him. He's starting to hide away, not really eat, and getting thinner. I plan on removing him soon to his own tank, so that I can monitor feeding and medicating better.

The other guys are doing a lot better as I said. Especially the 3 Blues, they've turned around full 180 degrees, literally. They used to stare at the back of the tank, now they are looking at me when it's feeding time, and swims around. Seems like the fighting has stopped, no more chasing around and beating one another up. There's the occassional nudge here and there, but nothing like it was before. They've calmed down a lot, and actually swim next to one another now, like how a real school should look like.

People are telling me that the fish are starting to look like they are growing bigger, with the exception of the few smaller guys. I noticed that a few of the "dark" ones have also turned around, and got their color back.

I don't think they will ever be show quality fish, but ridding them of parasies and diseases is important to me. I have 5 tanks running now, and this is the only tank that has me going crazy with steralizing tank equipment all the time during maintenance.

I occassionally would see one of the Blues rub on the hoses, or the driftwood. I'd sometimes see them clicker their fins, as to shake something off. THe other main problem is the lack of interest in food from the little ones. I haven't peeked at the scope for some time now, so I can't tell what's causing it.

The only observation that I've noticed is that after the medicated foods, most of their appetites seems to have improved, and those that did not take in any medicated foods, are continueing to head down a bad path. I can't blame them for not eating the Jungle stuff, it smells and feels horrible, like cardboard, only harder.

I still sometimes see white poo, and the other night, saw a piece that was longer than it's bottom fin! Not sure if that's considered "stringy", but it was definately LONG. The white poo I think is due to Flagellates.

I feel like I'm starting to see results, but not sure if it's because they are finally acclimated to my home, and the tank, or because they are getting well from the meds. So far, my treatments have been very passive, and only when necessary. In these last 2 months, I've been reading and asking questions more than I am measuring and adminstering meds. I have been buying all different kinds to keep around, just in case.

It's been a long 2 months, but I feel it's worth every effort in turning these guys around. I'll post some pics once I get around to it(the other night they all came to the corner where it's closest to the couch, and my head, never seen that ever before).
 

Star_Rider

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Shawn,
hang in there. I have had to deal many times with internal parasites.
the issue is really trying to find which ones affect your fish.

as I mentioned ingesting meds is the most effective delivery you can use to control internal parasites. the strongest concentration of meds can be delivered in this method.
a bath ie ; using meds delivered into the water the fish swim in can and does work but
the concentration is considerably lower and can take even longer. with the chance that you do not weaken the parasite
to the point where it releases it's grip in the digestive system of the infected animal.
we must try to understand how the meds work in most cases the parasite is paralized and releases it's grip to the digest tract . it then passes thru the digestive system 'alive' but paralized. it may have already laid the foundation for the next generation.. which is why we re treat the infected tank in 2-3 weeks again(Fendbendazole is one of the few meds that can kill the eggs.)
in the case of protozoa infection metronidazole is effect and can work in a bath. however, some are resistant to this med and it and prazi may not be effective at all.

in either case you can supplement the foods with a bath of meds.

hang in there. remember that most of the parasites do not fare well in warm water .
 
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pinkertd

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I'm glad that a lot of them are doing much better, a tribute to your dedication! The really tricky part of all of this is not having 100% proof of what actually is going on with them. Continued good luck to you!
 

shawnhu

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The really tricky part of all of this is not having 100% proof of what actually is going on with them.
That's my worse fear right now, as there are a few factors involved simultaniously here.

But let me tell you, I can sleep much better at night now, knowing that they have stopped the agression towards one another. My next worry is with the little one's growth. Hopefully, the rest I can take it slowly.


Again, a big thanks to you guys, I'll continue to keep the updates coming.
 

Star_Rider

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shawn, remember that the meds should only be administered for 24-48 hrs then a water change of 25% minimum. if done in bath.

my preference for the oral meds is to crush it up and mix with the discus favorite wet food.
 

shawnhu

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star_rider,

The meds that I have are pure powder form, I'll have to measure it in grams and miligrams. The wet foods that I have are all frozen, and I would need to thaw it prior to feeding. The problem with this is, one of the meds that I have, Fenbendazole, cannot be applied directly to the water. I've purchased Geletin for this purpose, but am not sure how to administer yet.
 
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