90 Litre Tank Stocking

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Byron Amazonas

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I'll try and upload a photo of one of the "swords".
You can sort of see the lighting level in the picture. The bulbs in there are a Power-Glo 15w T8 and an Aqua-Glo 15w T8.
View attachment 213561View attachment 213562
Excellent. OK, first on the plants, those are the "Amazon" sword. Echinodorus grisebachii is the true species, though you will often find them listed as Echinodorus bleherae [sometimes they get the gender wrong as E. bleheri]. I will not go into the botanical explanation of the species unless asked.

These plants are the emersed form. Like all Echinodorus species, this one is strictly speaking a marsh or bog plant. In its habitat it spends approximately half the year growing emersed (roots in very wet boggy soil, leaves in the air) and this is when it flowers and produces seeds [it will not flower submersed, though this can sometimes occur]. The leaves are stronger and thicker, as aerial leaves of plants always are, to stand up without support and to resist loss of moisture. During the wet season when the forest is flooded up to 30 feet in depth for six months, the plant obviously becomes submersed, and the leaves die off and submersed growth emerges; these are the linear narrower leaves that you mentioned previously.

This species grows exceptionally well submersed permanently; not all marsh plants do, but this one is ideal. When this occurs, as in the aquarium, the emersed leaves will yellow and die as new submersed growth emerges from the centre of the crown. It taskes a couple months or so for this to occur. So don't worry when you see the outer leaves yellowing, provided new growth emerges from the centre of the crown. Leave the yellowing leaves a bit, as some of the nutrients are what we term mobile, meaning the plant can move them from old (dying) leaves into new growth. But eventually once the stem near the crown has turned brown so no nutrients can pass down, the leaf can be removed.

The size of the submersed leaves can vary a great deal. At this point in the story, I will get botannical but briefly. This species contains eight "variants" that until quite recently were considered distinct species:
Echinodorus amazonicus
Echinodorus amazonicus var. parviflorus
Echinodorus amphibius
Echinodorus bleherae
Echinodorus eglandulosus
Echinodorus gracilis
Echinodorus grisebachii var. minor
Echinodorus parviflorus

Haynes & Holm-Nielsen (1994) considered E. grisebachii to be the true botanical species, but many did not accept this due to the wide variety in leaf structure and size. But in 2006, the Finnish botanist Samuli Lehtonen carried out extensive phylogenetic analysis (using DNA, something rare previously) which basically supports the findings of Haynes & Holm-Nielsen, with a few changes, and this classification is now accepted. Dr. Lehtonen is probably the foremost authority on the Echinodorus genus, as this was the basis of his doctorate work and he has written several papers and articles. The synonyms listed above are the former “species” that are now deemed to be within the one polymorphic species E. grisebachii complex. Differences in appearance between these plants are apparent and seem dependant on the specific environment in the aquarium; this seems likely to also occur in nature, what can be termed transitional forms of the species. But the limited genetic variation within the complex is insufficient to establish reasonable groupings (Lehtonen & Falck, 2011). This species epithet grisebachii takes precedence over the others under the rules of the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature because it was the first name assigned to the true species, and this was by the American botanist J.K. Small in 1909; the name honours the German botanist H.R.A. Grisebach (1814-1879).

Hope that is of some interest. To your lighting, I would replace the Aqua-Glo with a Life-Glo (staying in the same series of Hagen "Glo" tubes) as it is much better light. And these plants will respond better under it.

Byron.
 

Avocet

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Thanks for the info. Will the swords still grow with the current light or is it no good? By the way, when it comes to the shrimp, I think I'll wait until the tank is fully cycled before I add them as I've read that they can be quite sensitive when it comes to ammonia levels.
 

Byron Amazonas

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Thanks for the info. Will the swords still grow with the current light or is it no good? By the way, when it comes to the shrimp, I think I'll wait until the tank is fully cycled before I add them as I've read that they can be quite sensitive when it comes to ammonia levels.
Before answering these questions, one thing I neglected to mention in my previous post was that nurseries grow these plants emersed because it is easier and thus less expensive to do this. So that is why when you buy sword plants from stores, almost always they will be in the emersed form, unless they have been there a while.

The current light is OK, but plants do respond more to light around 5000K to 7000K. The Life-Glo at 6700K is bang on; I use it on all my single tube tanks. It also renders the colours of fish and plants true. My problem with the Power-Glo and Aqua-Glo is that they are both very high in the blue and red, creating a purplish hue. Some people like this. But as for plant growth, there does seem to be something in the yellow/green wavelength that promotes plant growth and this is missing from both these tubes. The tubes should be replaced regularly too; if these are T8, every 12-18 months.

On the cycling. Live plants need nitrogen, and most aquatic plants prefer it as ammonium. Ammonium is a less toxic form of ammonia; the chemistry gets very involved, but suffice it to say that the ammonia produced by the fish respiration and the decomposition of organic waste is taken up by the plants very fast and changed into ammonium. In acidic water this change happens naturally on its own. So there is very little ammonia left. But the benefit of the plants is that they do not produce nitrite, so that is one less problem. Some ammonia will still get taken up by bacteria, and some nitrite will occur and be taken up by other bacteria and changed into nitrate. But it will be much less, so much so that our basic test kits cannot even read it. Thus, with lots of live plants and some fast growers, you can put a few fish in on day 1 without worry. Then slowly build up the fish.

Byron.
 

Avocet

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Well I have about 12 Vallis and 6 Swords and I'm going to get some floating plants today. Are they fast growing enough? I'm keeping the lights on to get them to grow. I think I might just keep these lights for a while to see how the plants grow under them
 
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Avocet

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Also, I'm going to get about 10 harlequin rasbora and 3 honey gourami. For bottom feeders which would be better: Julii Cory, Bronze Cory or Peppered Cory?
 

Avocet

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Right, I've decided on either 6 Julii or Peppered Cory or 4 of each and about 8-10 harlequins. Thoughts?
 

Byron Amazonas

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Re your post 54, make sure you have a regular daily photoperiod for the tank lights; otherwise, you will have algae out of control. The duration depends upon the balance between light (intensity) and nutrient availability, plus of course the number and species of plants (as I said before, growth rate equals nutrient use). You might want to start around 8 hours. A timer works well to maintain this. The tank lights can be on when you are normally there to view the aquarium. Just make sure the tank gets several hours of total darkness, as this is important both for plants and fish.

Having the light on for longer periods does not help if nutrients are not all available, and algae is always waiting to take an advantage like this.

Re post 55, it doesn't really matter which cory species, whatever you like. Five or six of the same species is best, but if you want to mix them get three and three of two species. Some corys like to interact more with their own species, but they all get along.

Byron.
 

Avocet

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I'm going to get some liquid fertiliser for the plants so that should help them. Would from say 10am to 6pm be good then? I mean, there's not going to be total darkness at that time until winter. The latest I turn off the lights is about 10 and the earliest I turn them on is about 7 or 8 so that's 9-10 hours of darkness but while I'm no-one's in (like at work or whatever) I'll probably turn the lights off to make sure nothing goes wrong while I'm away. Also, with fewer harlequins, could I get some cardinal or black neon tetra, say six harlequins and six tetra? I haven't really been able to find any stores that sell floating plants for aquariums but I'll keep looking.
 
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Byron Amazonas

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I'm going to get some liquid fertiliser for the plants so that should help them. Would from say 10am to 6pm be good then? I mean, there's not going to be total darkness at that time until winter. The latest I turn off the lights is about 10 and the earliest I turn them on is about 7 or 8 so that's 9-10 hours of darkness but while I'm no-one's in (like at work or whatever) I'll probably turn the lights off to make sure nothing goes wrong while I'm away. Also, with fewer harlequins, could I get some cardinal or black neon tetra, say six harlequins and six tetra?
I would not mix two groups, there is not sufficient space. You can get lamp timers at hardware and home improvement stores that work well for tank lights; consistent light is important for fish and plants as both develop an internal circadian rhythm and will be healthier. I happen to use the 10 am to 6 pm schedule now, as I am home most all the time so this works well. But when I was working, the tank lights came on around 1 pm (timer) and off at 10 pm as I was normally home from 6pm on.
 

gmh

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10am-6pm sounds fine for starters. You may end up at 9 hrs or more with those bulbs. The ambient light from your living room isn't gong to effect the plants or fish much at all and 9-10 hours of total darkness is plenty, in my experience. I like the consistency and simplicity of using a timer.
 
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