Let’s Talk Fertilizer & Schedule ( again)

[the loach]

So KH is 4 degrees, I can't tell the color of the pH vial, it could be 7,4? Check the low pH as well.

Once you establish the pH, if there is not enough CO2 in the water (maybe it is lower as 7,4 currently?) you can try having the outlet of the filter under the water surface for a couple of days, then check the pH again if it is lower, that would be better for the plants.

 

[Kimunaffected]

So KH is 4 degrees, I can't tell the color of the pH vial, it could be 7,4? Check the low pH as well.

Once you establish the pH, if there is not enough CO2 in the water (maybe it is lower as 7,4 currently?) you can try having the outlet of the filter under the water surface for a couple of days, then check the pH again if it is lower, that would be better for the plants.

This is super interesting, The reason I went right for the high pH is because every time I tested it it registered on the high one, so this is the first time I have seen a change
Neat! (Sorry if I sound blonde )
I will test both ph again before lights on tomorrow

 

[the loach]

Seeing both tests I'm pretty sure your pH is 7.6. This means you have very little CO2 available for your plants.
pH, KH and CO2 are related, change one and the others will change.
Check the pH when the lights come on and when the lights go out. Then if you can put the outlet of the filter under water (so it doesn't break the surface) also test at the same times. The method that shows the lowest pH (and it would be ideal for your plants if it is 7-7,1) will give the best growth for your plants.

With surface agitation the CO2 will get to the atmospheric equilibrium, but this is quite low. Without surface agitation you use the CO2 produced by fish, plants (!!!) and other organisms. It might produce more CO2 depending on the circumstances. It is not true that surface agitation (by filter or air) will always give the best results in a planted tank. It may be 50/50 at best

 

[dougall]

Well, good thoughts dougall. This is the first I think I've seen of fish producing co2, muddy waters indeed.

I am a fan of not just of surface but all over water movement for my oxygenation loving loaches. To each their own. For me happy loaches over happy plants, or maybe it should be over "needy" plants, lol.

To be sure, I like water movement, just not surface agitation.

No bubbles, no ripples, just calm smooth water.

Of course my fish tastes align with that, I'm more likely to keep large groups of animals that are not from fast moving, White water riverine systems either. The needs of the fish do need to come first and foremost.

 

[Kimunaffected]

So I may have done this a bit backwards last nights results were while the lights were still on but right before I turned them off and this morning’s results were well the lights were off but right before I turn them back on.
should re-run them mid day and then after lights out later?

 

[the loach]

So I may have done this a bit backwards last nights results were while the lights were still on but right before I turned them off and this morning’s results were well the lights were off but right before I turn them back on.
should re-run them mid day and then after lights out later?

No, that's just fine. It shows the same result but that makes sense since you have a lot of surface agitation and bubbles the CO2 in your water is at the atmospheric equilibrium.

 

[Kimunaffected]

Update
I started the second round of ick treatment today and makes sure to keep the water level above the output from the filter.
I am thinking while this runs it’s course and my plants grow in I will be able to post my very first non emergency post.
This thread has so much info I am grateful to be able to easily return to it. However as we start fine tuning and monitoring my growth and adjustments I was thinking a new thread would be the most helpful to other members.
min the meantime I will absolutely refer back here if I get stuck.

 

[fishorama]

I agree, get through the treatment first & start a new thread. Don't forget to go 7 days after the last sign of ich, I know nagging. Then lots of water changes to get all the med out. Salt will not be removed by carbon.

How are your new crypts holding up? Any "melt" happening?

To me your pH, GH, KH etc. are fine for most plants in the low to medium light range. It'll be interesting how they all grow with all your tank changes.

 

[Kimunaffected]

The crypts are doing well, very little die off so far! I am seeing a few ich spots on the female. So I am continuing treatment. Am I correct that sticking with the one treatment until treated is better for my tank in the long run than getting inpatient and changing brands correct? The spots are not bad just a few like the male and the male is improving. I figure just this extends the length of time right? Granted my brand sucks and I should buy a better medicine but you think staying the course with api for now is best?

 

[dougall]

I wouldn't say API sucks.... That might be because some folks working there may know where I live ?

But I would stick with whatever you are using, in any case, unless it is something known to not work.

Things are looking up,hang in there!