Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification

Well, I can report that I'd already done a complete pump check and cleaned the interior of the canister thoroughly before posting last time, and there was nothing in there to interfere with pump function.

I didn't cut either hose so they're equal length but I likely will at some point. Inflow is slightly below outflow though, and they're going in to opposite sides of the tank.

Whatever it was, it seems to have sorted itself out over-night, and as pump damage wouldn't simply "go away" I don't think I'm going to waste to much time worrying about it. Probably just an air pocket.

Thanks Gunner.
 
Bought another one in preparation to start another tank. God, finding cheap quiet filters might turn out to be the worst thing that ever happened to my bank account and free space...
 
Gunner, you think it would be worth it to put a layer of bio-balls under the black sponge? Even more bio media cannot hurt is what I am thinking.
 
DooSPX said:
Gunner, you think it would be worth it to put a layer of bio-balls under the black sponge? Even more bio media cannot hurt is what I am thinking.
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You want to make sure that the Poly-Batten is tucked tightly ( like a sheet on mattress) under the black sponge as per my photos in order to prevent water/ debris bypass. Bio-balls are not very form-fitting and very pours, hence all it would take is one tear or failed fold in the Poly-Batten against the bio-balls and you would have serious bypass. If you must have bio balls leave enough spacing around the circumference to place bio-balls as spacers outside and around the Poly-Batten, which will still serve their intended purpose yet allow unrestricted intake flow without the possibility of casuing a breach-bypass between the pump and Poly-Batten.
 
Gunner...want to thank you for this thread. I bought two of these a few weeks ago and finally got them up and running with your very simple and yet ingenius mods!! The set-up was super easy!! Very impressed so far. So, thanks for taking the time to post such a detailed review.

Steph
 
stephcps said:
Gunner...want to thank you for this thread. I bought two of these a few weeks ago and finally got them up and running with your very simple and yet ingenius mods!! The set-up was super easy!! Very impressed so far. So, thanks for taking the time to post such a detailed review.

Steph
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My Pleasure 8^D
 
Both of mine are going strong, and I suspect they will for quite a while. Flow hasn't slowed down at all but I'll probably pull the media in the one I've had up the longest (though really only a month or so now) on the 29G to see if I can even tell it has been in use. Very happy with these, though I hesitate to recommend them to others because as you said, most want to be able to buy a new pad or whatever at 5x the cost that'll just slot in rather than cut their own, and heaven forbid you have to cut or change anything before putting a new product in to service.

I'd also like to report that I've branched out with regard to Odyssea branded stuff and now own a 300w Odyssea heater and a 4x24w 24" Odyssea T5 HO fixture and a couple of dual bulb Odyssea fixtures. Everything seems solid so far. The heater is just a "backup" (I use it to bring batches of new water for changes up to temp quickly) but does the job well. I still only trust Ebo-Jager heaters to my "display" tanks. :)
 
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I would like to reemphasize that funkmans DIY Mod of cutting a plywood or wood support flange work excellent to maintain even support of the plastic lid against the large O-rings which relives any possibility of stress cracks from over tightening. I'm making them not only for my CFS-500,s but for all my FX5's as well, excellent and simple support Mod.

funkman262 said:
Thank you for the review and troubleshooting the filter to come up with some really effective mods. I do have one thing to add though. My lid ended up getting fractures all over. I began by getting leaks through the lid and couldn't even see any cracks; it was as if the water was just diffusing through the plastic. Not long after, the cracks were very visible and water was quickly leaking out. I realized that the major problem was that the locks weren't evenly distributed along the lid, so why not force it to be evenly distributed? Here's what I did:

Cracks all along lid:
View attachment 169823

I cut out a ring of 1/4" birch plywood that would distribute the pressure throughout the lid:
View attachment 169824

I'm not sure if they're even necessary, but I even added on large fender washers to distribute the force from the nuts to the wood. Here it is all together:
View attachment 169825

Even with all of those cracks, I haven't had a single drop of water leak out of this thing. The addition of the wood and washers hardly adds any additional time in removing the lid as there's still enough wiggle room to loosen the nuts and bring them down without having to remove them. It was a quick, easy, and cheap fix that I would highly recommend, whether as a preventative measure or to fix an already cracked lid.
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